Bogg around 1k-1200 rpm

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My 40 shuts down for around 1/2 a second right when you hit the throttle. it does it every single time hot or cold. I will upload a video of it here soon. Carb is rebuilt, put in time, i dont think there are air leaks because i can spray around the carb and nothing changes. it has an electric fuel pump set around 8 psi. Thanks!
 
My 40 shuts down for around 1/2 a second right when you hit the throttle. it does it every single time hot or cold. I will upload a video of it here soon. Carb is rebuilt, put in time, i dont think there are air leaks because i can spray around the carb and nothing changes. it has an electric fuel pump set around 8 psi. Thanks!
its more of a stutter more than a bogg. Like a hiccup
 
My 40 shuts down for around 1/2 a second right when you hit the throttle. it does it every single time hot or cold. I will upload a video of it here soon. Carb is rebuilt, put in time, i dont think there are air leaks because i can spray around the carb and nothing changes. it has an electric fuel pump set around 8 psi. Thanks!

Checked your ignition timing lately?
 
Accelerator pump linkage? Float level? The intake manifold gasket has a much larger surface area than the barb. Brake booster leaks.
 
You failed to say what carb. Any way linkage is adjusted by bending the wire. Float level could be in a sight window, or you set it while the carb is apart.
 
Um I'm the physic person I know but I never learned to remote view.

I'm not saying you "need" to bend the wire, I saying you might need to bend the wire so that the pump squirts fuel when you step on the gas right away rather than later after the slop/play is taken up

I run a Rochester 2bbl because my rig came that way - the PO and I never liked the OEM carb. I think someone here has a nice vid on the carb maybe "pinhead". You could also see if there is a free manual besides the generic Haynes which will explain things like float level and accelerator pump linkage adjustment.


You should also make sure your valves are adjusted correctly. Timing/dwell is good. Not excessive play in the distributor shaft. All the contacts are clean - Inside the cap, scrape off the aluminium oxide layer
 
I agree with Charlie... accelerator pump needs to be checked to make sure you are getting a good squirt. Should be able to see it if you look down the carb and push the pedal linkage. I had a bad one and it had that stumble.
 
Sorry yes it’s I think a 72 carb.
Read the FAQs on carb dates to find out for sure. Read the FAQs on finding a vacuum leak and where the porthole window is.
Can you post pics?
I might try advancing the timing a bit (like another 5*) and see if that helps. If it does, advance it a little more.
 
Read the FAQs on carb dates to find out for sure. Read the FAQs on finding a vacuum leak and where the porthole window is.
Can you post pics?
I might try advancing the timing a bit (like another 5*) and see if that helps. If it does, advance it a little more.
I don’t know how to upload a video here so here it is as a YouTube short
 

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