Body Restoration Advice

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Location
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So, I have decided to completely restore the tub in the 40. I added up the costs of replacement panels and it kept going up and up. There is just too much rust underneath.

So, I am thinking of the aluminum route. I like the strength features and cost (of course). I have read and read on the Pros and cons. I am OK with isolating the metals with sealant or plastic/rubber membranes. I like the tear off and drop in concept.

Has anyone done this? How was the painting i.e. I know it needs a special primer, but is the metal prep different i.e. sanding? I heard the new fit is much better on the current tubs. But I have read many holes need to be drilled to fit stock items. Do you have to drill the holes for everything minus the body support holes?

Any and all comments are appreciated. Especially from those that have done this modification.

Damn, I cannot shake the "got to make it perfect" bug.

Juke
 
welp aqualalu is the only real manufactuer of alum tubs. JTO gets there tubs from them. I am planning on doing this soon so i called up aqualalu and they sent me a whole package deal about there FJ-40 bodies......i mean complete bodies (front fenders bibs headlight bezels cowl windsheild frame tub and tranny cover) and they all looked nice for a cruiser in need. Call them up to get the info u need on it.......someone around here must have their website as i have lost there URL
 
I am considering the same options right now. Cruiser Solutions is restoring my cowl and I have discussed with the owner, Ted the aluminum tub. Here is what I learned:

The tub costs around 1800, plus freight and handling which I was quoted ~ 600.00. The tubs have weld marks which require sanding and surface prep (about 25hours worth) which would include some filler.

The tub is pound for pound stronger than steel, however this tub is half the weight of the steel, so technically it is not any stronger than the steel.
Electrolysis is not an issue.

The tub does not come pre drilled for things like roll bar, seats or tire carrier.

Personally, I still want to finish my project in Steel ( I like the lines on the wheel wells and floor) but because Aluminum WILL NEVER RUST, I haven't made up my mind. I just wish they made Aluminum with the lines :).
Let us know how you make out.

Good luck!
 
For my '78 40 I put on the aluminum tub plus two front fenders. I have been very pleased with how easy it was to cut off the old and put on the new. The mounting bolts holes were perfectly drilled. There are predrilled bolt holes for the backs of the seat mounts but I had to drill for the front seat bolt holes which is easy since it is one layer of soft aluminum. I had to drill for the roll bar and for the jump seats, again easy since it is one layer. I had to drill holes for the small gasoline cap door and the spare tire carrier mount. There really was no difficult drilling I had to do. The fenders were a little more tricky but even there it is pretty easy. The priming with an etch primer and the painting was also quite simple. The prep for painting on the old parts was what took the most time actually. So, I don't have much negative to say about the aluminum parts, I was glad to find such a good product with which to replace the old rusted parts.
 
good stuff steel. I wish they offered the body strengthing lines in aluminum also. I like the option of the built in toolbox on the rear aluminum tubs. I also like the idea of a clean slate to work with (aluminum body/tub) and not hacking and rigging up a body that looks likes salvage yard special so i am going like that. My friend tried talking me into fiberglass and i do not want a fiberglass tub as if it cracks your SOL but i plan on keeping my FJ-40 until i lose my lisence cause i cant see so a aluminum tub seems like the best deal to me.....
 
Yeah, I spoke to Ted as well. Very informative. Sounds quite simple minus the body prep. They really do not show you any detailed pics of the tub. What body lines are left out? LCRUZ, will you send me a shot of your interior? I am interested in the rear bed, tranny cover and wheel wells. Did you do the body work on the rocker panel seem?

Thanks.
 
I'm about 3/4 through a tub replacement (aluminum) on my '82 FJ40. I went round and round over steel vs Aluminum. For me the bottom line was this:
1. Replacing all the steel parts was beyond the scope of what I wanted to attempt
2. Getting a full replacement steel tub for a 79- 83 tub is just about impossible - only one shop in Dallas makes them - and they are $$$
3. Aluminum is the practical solution.
I got mine from Robert at Liquid off road - By the way he's a real good guy to deal with. I've seen that posted on this site more than once!

The aluminum tub fits really good! I've not been disappointed with it. There is a lot of drilling though - nothing hard though.

Only down side is there is no ribbing and the fit around the ambulance doors doesn't have a lip.
 
Do we have two Rick D's?

[quote author=RickD link=board=1;threadid=12331;start=msg113113#msg113113 date=1078162879]
I'm about 3/4 through a tub replacement (aluminum) on my '82 FJ40. I went round and round over steel vs Aluminum. For me the bottom line was this:
1. Replacing all the steel parts was beyond the scope of what I wanted to attempt
2. Getting a full replacement steel tub for a 79- 83 tub is just about impossible - only one shop in Dallas makes them - and they are $$$
3. Aluminum is the practical solution.
I got mine from Robert at Liquid off road - By the way he's a real good guy to deal with. I've seen that posted on this site more than once!

The aluminum tub fits really good! I've not been disappointed with it. There is a lot of drilling though - nothing hard though.

Only down side is there is no ribbing and the fit around the ambulance doors doesn't have a lip.

[/quote]
 
Hey RickD: How was the instructional video? How off (if any) were your cuts the first time around? That seam between the A pillar and the quarter panel looks very nice. I have heard this is the toughest part to get right. How did you guestimate the cut on that piece?
 
I just talked to someone at liquid off road who said they are comming out with a new rear quarter panal that will be much easier to install and weld. My understanding is it will be lipped at the top and there will not be a long weld seam that shows. It will cost more but will cut time involved to less than 1/4 of the time to install and finish.
But don't get me wrong this is still a BIG undertaking because most tubs need more than just panals and floors. I am at work and don't have address but there is an excellant site about this restoration and whats usually involved. I will post it tomarrow. Aluminums main drawback is usually when it comes to repairs ie strighting and welding the folks at auto body shops have a tendancy to run backwards from these but large truck shops do it all the time so it can be done its just a matter of finding the right shop.
 
The instruction video was pretty good. Gives you the major things you need to do. In the video they instruct you to cut off the entire rocker panel (all the way up to and including the lip where the door hinges are). They also give you a cover plate to cover this area. I decided I wanted that lip - Looks more stock. I took a lot of measurements then cut if longer than I needed and then used a grinder to get it back to exactly where it fit. I must have put the new tub on/off 20 times before I finalized it!


PS - I'm RickD there's another guy called Rick D
 
[quote author=Landpimp link=board=1;threadid=12331;start=msg113124#msg113124 date=1078164294]
Do we have two Rick D's?
[/quote]

Yes we do John...

rick_d....is THE Rick D... ;)
 
I installed the Aqualu generation II on my Cruiser, it's a fairly simple operation. The video instructions are pretty detailed, measure twice, measure again then then cut drill or what ever. The tub comes with stainless steel fasteners and new shift lever boots. Here's a pic of the rear floor area of the Aqualu (smooth, without the stock ribbs)
 
Thanks Gus. Looks good.
 

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