Blue Seas ACR and Dead Batteries (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 7, 2018
Threads
20
Messages
184
Location
Denver
I posted this in another thread, but thought I would bring it to the general discussion as well. I think I know what I'm dealing with, but hoping someone can verify, or confirm otherwise.

I have a (semi at this point) new to me 97 LX450 with the Blue Sea ACR dual battery system installed. This is the first rig I've had with dual batteries, so go easy on my naivety of how it all works, I wasn't given a manual with the purchase.

For those of you familiar with the system, it appears that since I bought the truck, my ACR has been in the left ON position with the button pushed in, combining both batteries this whole time. The PO must have set it this way, and assuming he knew what he was doing, I never messed with it, and left the cabin switch on auto all the time.

Fast forward to now, when I went to start her up for the first time since December (weekend rig and busy schedule has left it parked - a mistake I wont make again) and nothing. Not a click, not a sound. Totally dead. So I grabbed the jumpers, hooked my driver side battery up to the Honda, and let it sit for 20 minutes. Luckily after a handful of failed attempts, it finally had enough juice to turn over, and I took it for a good 45 minute drive to try to recharge the system.

What I noticed, and what confused me at first, was that the cabin switch showed no red LED indicators, and it always had in the past. I was also getting no sound from my aftermarket stereo, which led me to assume that the battery I hadnt jumped was still dead, and all of my aux functions were running from it. So I did a little research and found this thread. I popped the hood and found the button pushed in on the ACR, so I turned it to the right, then back to the left, and did not push the button back in. Reading the manual here, the lack of LEDs would seem to indicate the batteries were isolated, and further reading made me realize that for the past few months of driving it, the LEDs were blinking during most trips, indicating that one or both batteries were below or above the required voltage. I usually just flipped the switch from "auto" to "on" and back, and that usually caused the blinking to stop and LEDs to stay on.

So my guess at this point is that one or both batteries were already on their way out, but most likely the passenger side aux battery, and because the ACR button had been pushed in - combining both batteries, parking it in the dead of winter caused both to drain out completely. Jumping the one battery got the truck started but essentially left the batteries "isolated" because the other remained dead. I haven't yet had either battery tested. Thoughts?
 
On should be used only for short periods winching or starting with a dead main battery i use off when parked for a long time and auto when on trail
Are you referring to the cabin switch or the engine bay box with the big yellow tab?
 
If I understand correctly the yellow tab is manual override
That's my understanding as well, and from what I've read, leaving the yellow tab set to "On" in the far left position WITHOUT the button pushed in leaves control up to the driver with the cabin switch - toggle on to combine batteries (winching, jump start, etc), auto for normal operation, off to isolate - and this seems to makes the most sense for all scenarios in my mind.
 
1904560
 
^ Right. So when I bought the truck, and up until a couple days ago when I changed it, that tab was in the first position described. It is now in the second position described - "remote," without the button pushed down.
 
Hi there
As @DesertDino posted, other than while charging or under heavy loads , the button on the ACR must always remain up and in position 1. By keeping that position (1) and pushing the button down, you are connecting both batteries, both for the charging cycle…and discharging.
Just for reference, I’ve installed the same ML-ACR 7622 last October. Choose not to install the dash switch for a mixture of: a) laziness and b) the automatic latching worked just fine (combining both batteries while charging and disconnecting them as soon the engine stops).
I was really happy with the product and overall set up…until last month when the automatic latching ceased to work: so right now, I just have a rather fancy and expensive manual switch.
I haven’t yet installed the remote dash switch; therefore, I don’t know if I could still switch the latching remotely-but I suspect the electronic control board of the device just died.
Cheers!
 
My ML ACR remote control feature died a year or two of use, only noticing after installing the remote switch. Not normally a problem as i use it as a manual underhood switch now. Planning to remove it and replace it soon. Sometime here a while back someone mentioned that the ACR constantly drains one battery while keeping the other charged to a certain point. Already killed a few Diehard platinums, 3-4 years each...
 
In addition to the good reputation of Bluesea products, I choose the 7622 model due to the minimal amp draw, the announced 60C as max temp (I installed at the corner of the main battery tray and away of the exhaust) and the safety manual override and operation-which is now the default operation.
Took my chances. Didn't work. My mistake. Lesson learned...but, hey! I have the community's fanciest dual battery switch;)
Cheers!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom