blown alternator fuse (1 Viewer)

[hammer1]

so...I finally get my bumper on, and procceed to mount my aux. lights on it.
I had pre-wired all the switches and relays weeks ago. I had tested the relays with a voltmeter so i know they work when the switch is "on"

so..wiring the lights, I decide to take the power off the fusebox under the hood, just behind the battery.there is a wire coming from the positive battery cable, terminating at a lug about 6 inches from where I need to get power to. Took out my 10 MM ratchet closed end wrench, and took to loosening the nut. Then...BANG! big shower of sparks. I seem to have hit some grounding point.
anyway...I blew the 120 Amp alternator fuse. and the lights dont work, and the car wont turn over.

***But I took ther power off the positive feed to the fuse box. If iI blew any fuse there, wouldnt i still be getting power to my lights?***

Or is there some sort of redundant feature that wont allow something else to work if the alternator is shut down, since any load ( without a recharging alternator ) would drain the battery.
I didnt check the fuses in line for the lights, because I think i shorted out the circuit BEFORE I attatched the power wire, but I could be wrong, since it was well past midnight when I was doing this, and I get up at 5:00 am.
now its raining, and wont be able to work untl this weekend, and its gonna be cold now.
**ck!

after replacing the alt. fuse, if i still have problems...where should I look?

 

[jfonz]

so...I finally get my bumper on, and procceed to mount my aux. lights on it.
I had pre-wired all the switches and relays weeks ago. I had tested the relays with a voltmeter so i know they work when the switch is "on"

so..wiring the lights, I decide to take the power off the fusebox under the hood, just behind the battery.there is a wire coming from the positive battery cable, terminating at a lug about 6 inches from where I need to get power to. Took out my 10 MM ratchet closed end wrench, and took to loosening the nut. Then...BANG! big shower of sparks. I seem to have hit some grounding point.
anyway...I blew the 120 Amp alternator fuse. and the lights dont work, and the car wont turn over.

***But I took ther power off the positive feed to the fuse box. If iI blew any fuse there, wouldnt i still be getting power to my lights?***

Or is there some sort of redundant feature that wont allow something else to work if the alternator is shut down, since any load ( without a recharging alternator ) would drain the battery.
I didnt check the fuses in line for the lights, because I think i shorted out the circuit BEFORE I attatched the power wire, but I could be wrong, since it was well past midnight when I was doing this, and I get up at 5:00 am.
now its raining, and wont be able to work untl this weekend, and its gonna be cold now.
**ck!

after replacing the alt. fuse, if i still have problems...where should I look?

IT should work, but if it doesn't I would check the rest of the fuses first. Then If that doesn't work I would check the terminals on the battery to make sure there tight and making a good connection. From there its all guess work for me,... but my initial guess is once you've replaced that fuse you'll be good to go....

 

[hammer1]

i got a bad feeling this is going to be a weekend long search.........

 

[Lovey]

bumper pics?

 

[hammer1]

updat:
first...lovey, when i get a chance during daylight hours ( maybe next summer) i will try to snap pics of the new bumper.

second. Got a replacement link from the local store. It came with two male tabs on the bottom, with keyhole-like connections. The parts guy said that most likely the OEM bolted in the box. I find that hard to beleive that THIS fuse , I am going to have to tear apart god-knows-what, just to change. I do have two tabs sticking up on the block, perhaps the leftover remenants of the blown link, but there is NO MARKS ON THE METAL. I would think that even if i am looking at two male tabs, that I would just have to pull out, there would be some indication that they are part of something. They are not burned, melted, or marked in ANY way.
This leads to my idea that the fuse-link plugs in, ON TO the two male tabs poking up.
I even stopped at the dealer, to see if they could help me determine what a complete link looks like. The problem there is that they have no 120 amp alternator link listed for a 2007 FJ with an automatic, only a manual. There also is no indication of mounting.
I am stuck....its pouring rain, and going down to December temps tonight. I have a bad feeling that this is going to be a LONG, DIFFICULT piece to even ID. let alone replace.

 

[hammer1]

another updat:
spent a while of the phone with Bussman,a major supplier of fuses and fuselinks to many Japanese car makers, including toyota.
the result:
no one known makes a 120AMP fuse/link with anything other than "male" terminals on the bottom.Meaning, the metal tabs i have sticking out from the fuse-block are in all likleyhood, the remenants of the fuse. The Mfg. sugested that I tightly grip the tabs with a pair of needlenose, and gently pull to remove.
I still think that this is wrong, but I have no choice.
Its raining now, so i am waiting for tommorrow.
if anyone has any input, I would REALLY appriciat it, since I am STILL reluctant to pull on something that looks like its NOT removable.

and....BTW..the dealer never called me back.
big F***ING suprise!

 

[Runner Ryan]

Kinda late now, but it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery when doing electrical work. I know it's a PITA with all the pre-sets on the stereo, and stuff, but it avoids problems like this.
Try posting a pic of this fuse. Then I may know what you are talking about, and be able to look at mine.

 

[hammer1]

pictures

here are some pictures:

the first one shows what it left in the space when the alternator fuse was pulled out.

the second shows the small white block that is what was pulled out, and next to it, the new 120 AMP Buss fuse bought at the local supply house. Notice the long feet on the new one. As said prior, whats left in the fuseholder MIGHT be the remains of the "feet" you see on the new one.

But....
there is no fxxxing way these remains are going to come out. I pulled and pulled, to the point where i cracked one of the plastic flanges that holds the fuse box to the fender. i also might have buggered up the piece a little, trying to get it out.

to make matters worse yet...I pulled out the "good" 60 amp heater fuse, to see what it looks like, and busted that the same way. so now i have no truck....no way to determine what fuses i need, and the dealer is NO FxxxING HELP!!!!!!!

SOMEONE has to know what to do!

 

[Runner Ryan]

I'm guessing that those are the leftover feet of the blown fuse. The dealer usually has a blown up picture of all the stuff you can order from them. That may give you an idea of what's in there. The feet of the new fuse look like they can grab on quite good. I can go and check mine tomorrow. I'd do it now, but I'm kinda sick, and it's cold and dark outside.

 

[hammer1]

man..like i said...i pulled and pulled to the point i cracked one of the mounting feet on the fuse box. i dont think they go in this tight. something does not seem right.

 

[Runner Ryan]

Well, it IS 120 Amps. Maybe it slightly melted the contacts when it blew?

 

[dfmorse]

Hammer;

U are truly getting your self into a mess here. I would contact c-dan [who probably has not read this thread] and see if he can help.

Your owners manual may have some info as well as the FSM & EWD manuals; but I doubt it. Dealers are clueless on this stuff.

...

 

[hammer1]

called c-dan on the phone...still waiting for a return call. If he is like any other dealer, there wont be a return call.
It appeards this fuse bolts in from inside the fuse-box.
I am now going to go outside in the near freezing weather, and remove half the fxxxing stuff in that part of the engine compartment, and see if i can get under the box. It is a solid bottom, so it has to come apart some how. I say there is a 90 percent chance i will damage it.
i will NEVER buy another new car again...EVER!

 

[Lovey]

you need a hand?

PM me if so.

 

[hammer1]

fixed!!!!

I had to take out the battery, and unbolt the fuse box. Then i had to snap the clips that hold the board that mounts the fuses into the box. This was done by drilling out the little "v" clips that it seems you need four hands to do. The board lifted out, and then dovetailed in half, allowing me access to the TWO DIFFERENT size bolt for the two fuses. .
Re-assebly was easy, and about an hour later, I was finished.
PITA, but now i know what to do next time.
Thanks for all the helpfull words
andy

PS..pictures of the bumper coming as s oon as the sun gets to a good point in the sky