Bleeding Shimano hydraulic brakes

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Yep the metal pads are more apt to squeal...vs. the resin.
 
I may have to switch to resin then, $70/set is getting old. I'll try more aggressive sanding and cleaning, 220-grit didn't seem to take much material off. I've got two old sets that look as thick as the ones I just put on.
 
do you guys wear spandex pants?

Ratty old biking shorts under hiking shorts. Sometimes I wear my old moto-cross shirts, kind of heavy lycra/spandex. I ain't no roadie.
 
Piece of cake. Helps to have two people and being in a bike stand is a bonus but you can figure another way to lift the rear tire so the little reservoir is level and keep the bike stable. You do it just like a car. One person puts pressure on the brake lever, the other opens/shuts the bleed valve and the fluid runs out the tube. As to the Pentosin - did you get this because you know it's compatible? I have always bought the $$$ Shimano mineral oil from fears of compatibility but have been waiting for someone to establish a cheaper alternative. What's the word on that?

DougM

I use $0.99 perfumed baby oil on mine. No issues in the past 7 years.
 
Yeah, Shimano uses mineral oil - thus their ability to specify that you use their brand. Mineral oil would need some additives to handle the extreme heat, moisture resistance, etc of a brake application and who knows what compatibility to Shimano's caliper seals, brake lines and such is needed. Other brands use ordinary brake fluid available for 1/100th the price.

Endurance bike racing is popular and there are a lot of races. There are the ordinary 24hr ones I do, and some insane ones like the Trans Rocky types that last for days. You start at 12 noon, at 7:30pm you are not allowed on the course without lights, and they end at 12 noon the next day. You can enter them as a solo (insane), dual team (ouch), and a team of 4 (slightly less ouch). I've done a few as dual and a few as 4 man. The 2am hallucinations are amazing.

DougM

The baby oil I mentioned in my post above worked fine riding serious downhills in Tahoe, the Sierra foothills and racing the Downieville Classic. No fade or pressure drops.
 
Avid mechanicals have no modulation compared to hydros.

Avid mechanicals were popular for awhile when people were making the switch to disc brakes but they are def. a solid step below in performance. Nothing wrong with them, they just are not hydros.

You have never ridden a set properly adjusted then. Properly set up and adjusted, they have modulation very close to good hydro brakes (some guys say better, but my experience is nearly as good). Avid Mechanicals are still extremely popular with many hard core riders for the simple reason they work well with little fuss.
 
I've been mountain biking for about 12 years and finally bought a bike that came with hydro brakes. Man! What a difference between discs and vbrakes. I'll never go back to the Vbrake configuration as the hydros offer much better wet and dry modulation, especially when honking down hill covered with slick roots.

My friend has the Avid mechanical disc brakes, and while I know people like 'em, I think the brake lever feel on the hydros are better. Performance may be similar, but when you crank on the Avid lever, you know you're tugging on a wire. Not so with the hydros.
 
That has not been my experience. I have ridden XTR hydros for a year or two. They needed constant attention in terms of adjustment and pad replacement, (they wore out quick in muddy conditions). They were constantly rubbing one side or another. My wifes bike still has these and I am always tuneing them, (just replaced a pad set last pm).

On my mulispeed XC, I set up the avid mechanical disk. I have yet to replace the pads after a lot of miles. I have yet to even need to adjust them, and will never need to bleed cause' they are on cables. Another awesome thing about the avids is the ability to adjust either pad independantly so you can customize the feel and eliminate the rubs.

Pop a hydro line out in the middle of nowhere...you have no brakes, and I have yet to learn of a fix. Breaking a cable is a very rare occurance.


The avids also cost a lot less and are lighter...

Spud,
There was a free recall on XTR to fix the dragging pads. Check w/ your local shop on having that done.

I have never had a hydro line pop. in racing, in training, ever. It is not a very high pressure system.

I ran Avid Mechanicals before upgrading to hydros.
I thought the Avid Juicy7 was good too but only had that for a summer.
 
Spud,
There was a free recall on XTR to fix the dragging pads. Check w/ your local shop on having that done.

I have never had a hydro line pop. in racing, in training, ever. It is not a very high pressure system.

I ran Avid Mechanicals before upgrading to hydros.
I thought the Avid Juicy7 was good too but only had that for a summer.

Ohhh, I will check on the recall. :cheers:

I did not mean "pop" as in some kind of spontaneous event, or due to pressure. I meant that there is a decent chance that you could smash it on a rock, cut a line by abrasion, get a stick caught and rip out a line etc. as in s*** could happen and leave you without brakes. In the field, a hydo setup is unfixable IMO.
 
Spud,
You could say the same about car brakes. The only place a cable brake is used is the parking brake!

I have not come across durability issues, maybe you had a differnt experience
 
Ohhh, I will check on the recall. :cheers:

I did not mean "pop" as in some kind of spontaneous event, or due to pressure. I meant that there is a decent chance that you could smash it on a rock, cut a line by abrasion, get a stick caught and rip out a line etc. as in s*** could happen and leave you without brakes. In the field, a hydo setup is unfixable IMO.


While I am not a big fan of hydros, there have been virtually no problems with this in the field (if there were, you would be reading about it on MTBR). The biggest problem in the field is the brakes loosing their bleed or a leakage onto the pads. Both are very rare and virtually never happen without warning.
 
While I am not a big fan of hydros, there have been virtually no problems with this in the field (if there were, you would be reading about it on MTBR). The biggest problem in the field is the brakes loosing their bleed or a leakage onto the pads. Both are very rare and virtually never happen without warning.

Interesting...
My assumption was that it was happening on occasion. I subpose MTBR would know, (the Mud of MTBing).

Well, I am happy with what I have. My original chime in was just me throwing in my opinion about the pro's & cons of mechanical vs. hydro. I subpose I was imagineing a "worst case scenrio" to weigh them out.
 
Spud,
You could say the same about car brakes. The only place a cable brake is used is the parking brake!

I have not come across durability issues, maybe you had a differnt experience

OK, I'm sold...:cheers:
 
Ok, that worked, no surprises. It was no problem doing it solo, I could comfortably reach the brake lever and rear bleed screw. When I opened the bleed screw, the brake lever went almost immediately to the limit, it would've been difficult to coordinate that between two people. I pumped a lot of fluid through the rear caliper, one tiny bit at a time, refilling the reservoir every five pumps of the lever. The piston in the reservoir didn't always return fully to give a complete stroke, but seemed to improve with fresh fluid.

The brakes seem better in a quick ride on the driveway, the rear brake lever doesn't need as much travel.

The bladders that sit on top were expanded quite a bit when I took them out, which indicates some fluid loss since new. I haven't noticed any fluid loss, but this bike gets pretty messy sometimes. It's a year and a half old, but has ridden daily through two Michigan winters.

It was a little messy pouring a liter can into the small reservoir, I kept plenty of paper towels under the reservoir to catch the spills. Mineral oil is pretty forgiving, glad it wasn't brake fluid. The clear hose stayed tight on the bleed screw, no spills around the calipers. The other end of the hose is tight through a hole in the water bottle lid, so it stays put and doesn't spill even if it tips. I drilled a small vent hole in the lid as well.
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