After a bunch of bi-passing factory systems to make up for missing parts (starter relay, glow plug relay, EDIC contol unit) its time to try to start the BJ-60 that was in the barn for nine years. How much cranking should it take to fill completely empty lines? Can I leave the lines open and just crank until I see fuel (in interval not to kill the starter) or do I have to close the line (like bleeding brakes) between cranking the starter?
Bleeding Injection Lines
- Thread starter phatwheels
- Start date
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Bleed the pump first using the primer pump on the boost pump.
Crack all the lines at the injectors and crank the motor until you make a mess.
Should not take too long....
Crack all the lines at the injectors and crank the motor until you make a mess.
Should not take too long....
If you take the glow plugs out it will crank longer and faster.
You can completely disconnect the lines but once fuel is coming through, nip them up a little and watch the air bubbles being squashed out and when its only fuel coming out tighten them right up. A little like bleeding brakes.
When you take the glow plugs out you could put half a teaspoon of oil in eack cyl to increase compression and make it start smoother
If you can, pull the truck around the yard a little....save the starter.
Agree.
Just operate the primer pump. Open the bleeding port on the filter. Pump for awhile till its bubble free. Then just start the engine. It will be rough but should run with a little throttle. AS it is running you can crack the injectors one at time half a turn to get air out there.
My guess it starts right up. There is no reason it won't. Asl long as fuel and glow are present.
Im forgetting they have a primer pump unlike the 1HZ which uses cranking speed to bleed the system- Thread starter
- #7
How far would one have to tow it around the yard? Does it getting fuel back into the lines pretty fast?
It deffinately won't start as is, theres absolutely no fuel in the injector lines. It sat for nine years, the fuel in the lines turned to a toxic maple syrup, so I cleaned out the old lines with compressed air.
Well, it will probably burp and fart for a minute or two and maybe run when you stop pulling....tighten the lines up away you go.
Just hook up a boost vehicle and, open the injector lines have a turn and crank. It will fart a bit. Then close all the injectors and fire it up. Then crack each one, one at time. Make sure your edic arm is moving to over inject.
- Thread starter
- #10
Over Inject Postion????
My EDIC arm does not move. The arm on the Injector Pump moves towards the firewall, with a spring when I took out the motor. Does the arm move to over-inject or just drive if not attached to the motor?
My EDIC arm does not move. The arm on the Injector Pump moves towards the firewall, with a spring when I took out the motor. Does the arm move to over-inject or just drive if not attached to the motor?
lever in centre is run. look for the matchmarks on each side of the lever on the injection pump and also edic motor. It needs to be in the mid to run.
To start while the starter motor is engaged the lever goes all the way back(towards firewall). Thats over injection. When you relaease the starter I believe it returns to centre.
Stop is all the way forward(towards rad)..
If your edic is pooched.(could be after years of not using) then you could rig a manual set up. With all the way out being run. Forget about the overinjection and just put you foot down a little in the start up...
I haven't tried going manual. I'd rather the edic work. Then you have the low oil pressure cut off functioning. If you didn't have the edic I would run a power wire to the low oil px switch and the other pole to a warning red lamp on the dash. A little back up.
disconnect the edic arm from the motor, have someone crank while you hold the arm back. If it fires and he lets of the starter put the arm back in the run spot. then try bleeding the lines... g-luck
To start while the starter motor is engaged the lever goes all the way back(towards firewall). Thats over injection. When you relaease the starter I believe it returns to centre.
Stop is all the way forward(towards rad)..
If your edic is pooched.(could be after years of not using) then you could rig a manual set up. With all the way out being run. Forget about the overinjection and just put you foot down a little in the start up...
I haven't tried going manual. I'd rather the edic work. Then you have the low oil pressure cut off functioning. If you didn't have the edic I would run a power wire to the low oil px switch and the other pole to a warning red lamp on the dash. A little back up.
disconnect the edic arm from the motor, have someone crank while you hold the arm back. If it fires and he lets of the starter put the arm back in the run spot. then try bleeding the lines... g-luck
- Thread starter
- #13
Still won't start
So I bled the lines. Its 25-30 degrees F lately. Was finally spitting out fuel at the injectors. Doesn't even cough when I tried to start it. How long should I turn the glow plugs on for? Its just a manaul set up. It never ran so I don't know what to compare the glow plug time to. I've got it in a garage now. A good 60-70 degrees. Could it fire without any functioning glow plugs? How long switched on would it take to fry a set of glow plugs?
So I bled the lines. Its 25-30 degrees F lately. Was finally spitting out fuel at the injectors. Doesn't even cough when I tried to start it. How long should I turn the glow plugs on for? Its just a manaul set up. It never ran so I don't know what to compare the glow plug time to. I've got it in a garage now. A good 60-70 degrees. Could it fire without any functioning glow plugs? How long switched on would it take to fry a set of glow plugs?
It won't fire nicely with bad plugs.
Have you also bled the injection pump? It should be doing more than just spitting fuel. Spitting to me sounds like it's got air still.
I usually do the bleeding thing with a warm engine to make it easier to start but obviously that's not an option with you.
Have you also bled the injection pump? It should be doing more than just spitting fuel. Spitting to me sounds like it's got air still.
I usually do the bleeding thing with a warm engine to make it easier to start but obviously that's not an option with you.
good point on the bleeding the injector pump. You will see a screw on the side of the pump. crack that while using the hand pump. Also make sure the filter has been bleed and the then crank and do the injectors.
With all the injectors cracked open might take 2 times 30 seconds on the starter to get some fuel in. Then tighten them all up, run the glows for 30 seconds on manual, or 20. No more. then crank with edic arm in overinject. once it fires use a little throttle to keep it running. ensure edic arm is in run. maybe also add a little glow while running for 10 seconds or so.
if your injector lines were like syrup maybe the inside of the IP is the same.
One thing you could try. Put a jerry can half full of diesel below the engine and run a line from the inlet of the IP straight into it. Then bleed all the air out. Then you "know" you have a source that isn't restricted.
With all the injectors cracked open might take 2 times 30 seconds on the starter to get some fuel in. Then tighten them all up, run the glows for 30 seconds on manual, or 20. No more. then crank with edic arm in overinject. once it fires use a little throttle to keep it running. ensure edic arm is in run. maybe also add a little glow while running for 10 seconds or so.
if your injector lines were like syrup maybe the inside of the IP is the same.
One thing you could try. Put a jerry can half full of diesel below the engine and run a line from the inlet of the IP straight into it. Then bleed all the air out. Then you "know" you have a source that isn't restricted.