bleeding disc brakes

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Jul 6, 2003
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I just got done putting my calipers back on with new bads. I'm having trouble getting the brakes to work properly. First off the pedal went to the floor. I bled them some more and it helped, then all of the sudden it would pull hard to the left...? I'm sure this has been talked about so if some one could redirect me I would greatly appreciate it.

I bled them a little bit but I don't think I'm doing it right. :beer:
 
2 person method.

Get a jar, some brake fluid and a clear. hose which will fit over the bleeder valve. You can buy one of those cheap kits at an auto parts store.

Fill up the jar half way with brake fluid. Put the hose on the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar, making sure the hose is immersed in brake fluid.

Make sure you are using a flare nut wrench

Have your assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 3 or so times, then while they have the pedal held in, crack open the valve and release the pressure. Then tighten the valve.

Do this as many times as it takes until you no longer see air coming out of the hose.

Oh, and don't let the fluid in the master run dry.
 
this also works with just one person, as long as the end is in fluid.

start wtih the bleeder that is farthest from the master, so that would be driver side rear, then PS rear, then PS front, then DS front.

If your working on a 88+ then bleed the LSPV in the rear last.

and when your all done adjust the rear drums, I tighten em up till the wheel will only spin 1/2-1 rotation.....heck if too tight no worries they will burn in till they are perfect :)

[quote author=7FootYeti link=board=1;threadid=10960;start=msg98491#msg98491 date=1075828708]
2 person method.

Get a jar, some brake fluid and a clear. hose which will fit over the bleeder valve. You can buy one of those cheap kits at an auto parts store.

Fill up the jar half way with brake fluid. Put the hose on the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar, making sure the hose is immersed in brake fluid.

Make sure you are using a flare nut wrench

Have your assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 3 or so times, then while they have the pedal held in, crack open the valve and release the pressure. Then tighten the valve.

Do this as many times as it takes until you no longer see air coming out of the hose.

Oh, and don't let the fluid in the master run dry.
[/quote]
 
I will through this out...

i am sure you have, but make sure the bleeder valve is on top of the caliper. If it is down it will never bleed.
 
I only took the front calipers off, do I still need to bleed the rear brakes? I haven't touched the rears.
 
[quote author=skiakhokie link=board=1;threadid=10960;start=msg98589#msg98589 date=1075837828]
I only took the front calipers off, do I still need to bleed the rear brakes? I haven't touched the rears.
[/quote]

if you didn't let the master run dry, then no, if the master ran dry then yes. And honestly i would bleed all of em anyway.
 
[quote author=Landpimp link=board=1;threadid=10960;start=msg98641#msg98641 date=1075844031]
if you didn't let the master run dry, then no, if the master ran dry then yes. And honestly i would bleed all of em anyway.
[/quote]

This is good advice. DOT 3 brake fluid attracts moisture easily.
An indicator is the fluid changing from clear to a dark color, not easily seen through. Any moisture in the system can cause corrosion issues, and create headaches.

-Steve
 
funny you should mention the moisture issue. The fluid is very dark and got darker as i bled the brakes. Part of the reason I was working on the brakes is because one of the calipers was corroded. What's the easiest way to clean the system?
 
Just flush it with new fluid. I would let the res. get down a bit, and see if there is crud in them, if so, brake clean and wipe it out. Flush the system with pleanty of new fluid.

You can use a rag and leech the fluid out of the res. Just do not press the pedal without putting new fluid in the res. Otherwise you will be putting air into the system, and creating all sorts of fun for yourself.

Good luck!

-Steve
 

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