Blacksmith, Forging, Smithing

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NicksFJ40 said:
There is so much to learn and who knew you could burn steel. Ha ha. I watch a lot of You Tube University, specifically Black Bear Forge and DF-In the shop. They have beginner vids and/or walk you through their projects.

Started buying tongs off Ebay, but they seem to be pricy, especially when “vintage” is part of the title. Found some good on line forging shops with better prices. Picked up a 195 lb anvil off Craigslist. The coal forge I made along with a power hammer.

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@NicksFJ40 Whoa, that's a sweet set-up and thanks for starting this thread (already up to 20 posts by the time I got to sit down and review it!! :cool: )
Access to drops and scraps, Craigslist, and, well... anything is sweet! I have envy of y'all :)

j/k but not really.

I've done a little YTing for super basic concepts and I too have so much to learn!!

I started conceiving of a brake drum or steelie wheel fire pot, then thought about a school bus drum might be bigger/better (I may have a lead there).
I already had a scrap wood stove so YTed that
which is now a fire brick-lined and ceramic insulation lined.
My initial basic set-up is this burning lump charcoal with a hair drier.

Super basic, gets hot enough and I've hammered orange rebar flatter!!
This is essentially my basic entry set-up here

Yeah, SO much learning to do!!!

I made contact with a farrier, so hopefully getting word out for me for an anvil and some tongs.

Looking forward to further Mud-smiths sharing their hobbying here!!!
 
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So here's my newb, entry-level base knowledge/experience base 😝
there are definitely pros and cons to this set-up. I'm considering a v. 2.0 with a brake drum (also comes it different pros and cons) for a more traditional fire pot with forced air from below, using a clinker, etc.

Using what I have, I started with a wood stove and lined it with fire brick and a ceramic insulation.
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Hair drier on a tube for forced air...
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LEARNING issues to solve.
  • need a way to modulate this airflow/force.
  • need a better way to introduce air so the door can close more
  • need to better the door so it can close with material in the fire box.
    • don't really want to cut the door for the above needs.
There is a plate I can remove on the top of the stove, maybe flap the insulation to make a forced air port here (make a frame for hair drier, etc.)??
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I have a drop of rail I kind of want to shape into an anvil (inspirational YT links posted previously).

I spiked it onto a stump in the yard that is conveniently sized for a good height.
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base thoughts:
  • location and proximities: the anvil is a few steps from the forge (inconvenient)
  • currently in a corner of the backyard, wood stove/forge is on plywood on saw horses 🤪
  • first trials using chunk charcoal
    • need to learn damper use for heat retention in the box
    • I probably need to use a lot more charcoal than the skimpy use on initial trials.
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🤔need more tips and tricks🤔
 
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as proof of concept it works. I've gotten some rebar orange and pounded it with a 3#er.
it is sort of first fire poker tool.
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I wanted a wider blade and started ponding on a longer piece of rebar that I may fashion a handle on the other side of.
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I didn't really have a plan but it was fun to thin it out some, but this is when I discovered the inefficiency of the fire box. I can't really get the hos spot further up the material yet.
  • think I need to use more coal for bigger/hotter or strategically placed hot spot in the depths of the firebox.
  • figure out how to close the door and have airflow more properly injected

🤔

As a learning experience and fun with my kid, this is RAD!

But we've already hit a week of mostly triple digits so this may 'backburner' till fall while we focus on other projects...


BUT I'm definitely interested in getting pointers, direction, recommendation/suggestions and listening to ideas from y'all!!! 🤘🤘
 
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That’s an interesting set up, that’s a great idea and the BBQ coals work? I haven’t had any luck with rebar, it seems to brake easily.

I didn’t relise I hadn’t pushed “watch” on this post. I’ve been working on a dining table top for a friend who built an engine for my 80.
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Getting it milled tomorrow morning.

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That’s a good price for a 200lb anvil.
 
What a great score!
 
RE: Forge and smithing


Okay additional things learned..

Air injection should be directed to a focal spot, not just broadcast into a box (as in my initial trials).
As such you create a focal hot spot (i.e. a fire pot with air inlet central in the bottom).
So in my case to use the wood stove, I'll need to drill a port or plumb it under the firebrick to a spot mid depth.

Version 2.0 for me may be the brake drum concept.. I have a couple Subaru drums but was thinking of a school bus drum. 🤔

🙄concepts to mimic:
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ferrier's coal forge:
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ferrier's coke forge:
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source: (Blacksmith & Farrier Supplies | Buy Forge Supplies, Equipment & Tools for Sale at Centaur Forge - https://www.centaurforge.com/)


I've seen people mold some clay into the drum to take up the sharp corners/dead space to make it more of a rounded bowl (of course mimicking a ferrier's coke forge or regular firepot :p ), then plumbing the air beneath with a clinker (to keep airflow prime and remove burned junk accumulating in the bottom of the pot with the building coke).

The wood stove concept kind of mimics the propane version (contained box vs open bowl), but without the directed jet of propane flame to focus heat....
OOOORRRR, plumb in the weed torch and turn this wood stove into a liquid-fueled forge... but my son was disenchanted with this idea and seems to long for the old-school coal coke method :p LOL


Hmm, learning is kewl and temps are changing (FINALLY), so this should come back into season and be a weekend time use with my son again.
 
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DRANGED said:
RE: Forge and smithing


Okay additional things learned..

Air injection should be directed to a focal spot, not just broadcast into a box (as in my initial trials).
As such you create a focal hot spot (i.e. a fire pot with air inlet central in the bottom).
So in my case to use the wood stove, I'll need to drill a port or plumb it under the firebrick to a spot mid depth.

Version 2.0 for me may be the brake drum concept.. I have a couple Subaru drums but was thinking of a school bus drum. 🤔

🙄concepts to mimic: View attachment 3723027 ferrier's coal forge:View attachment 3723025 ferrier's coke forge: View attachment 3723026
source: (Blacksmith & Farrier Supplies | Buy Forge Supplies, Equipment & Tools for Sale at Centaur Forge - https://www.centaurforge.com/)


I've seen people mold some clay into the drum to take up the sharp corners/dead space to make it more of a rounded bowl (of course mimicking a ferrier's coke forge or regular firepot :p ), then plumbing the air beneath with a clinker (to keep airflow prime and remove burned junk accumulating in the bottom of the pot with the building coke).

The wood stove concept kind of mimics the propane version (contained box vs open bowl), but without the directed jet of propane flame to focus heat....
OOOORRRR, plumb in the weed torch and turn this wood stove into a liquid-fueled forge... but my son was disenchanted with this idea and seems to long for the old-school coal coke method :p LOL


Hmm, learning is kewl and temps are changing (FINALLY), so this should come back into season and be a weekend time use with my son again.
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Coal is the way to go. I hope I am not giving a secret away here, but Hesperus Colorado is the place to buy coal if it isn't too far away.
 
This site may be helpful. I found some good info here.


Is there a particular store/vendor in Hesperus? That would be worth a days drive to stock up.
 
Don't know why it took me so long to find this one! That homemade power hammer is awesome! Everyone's setup looks great!
My brother is the one who got really into it and built our setup and so I'm not very familiar with using it. I mainly use it for rivets or heating something up when it's stuck. I made a starting crank for my Farmall cub not to long ago with it that turned out pretty good:
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Coal is really nice if you have access to it but I use homemade charcoal. I have a lot of crappy wood and tree limbs that I make into charcoal and it works just fine.

Seeing all these nice setups makes me want to get ours going again but it's garnered some junk on and around it.
 
In the 1980's I worked for Bendix Field Engineering. We had designed the communication suite for the new TAO oilers. I had designed the mounts and foundations and was sent to Avondale in NO for the equipment installation and inspection.
When we arrived the compartment was all painted and ready for us.
I began my inspection of the bulkhead mounts and I was very impressed with the perfect dime on dime shape of the weld. Until I put my finger on it and It was caulk.
The welder had missed a staggered weld and decided to improvise. I Got an extra day In New Orleans while they fixed it and checked all the other welds! :)
 
I saved this sawdust burner from certain death. It was on its way to the scrapyard. It had a large hopper that fed the sawdust into the rectangle hole. It’s about 15” long by 5-6” wide.

I’m going to strip it down, clean and turn it into a gas forge for smaller projects.
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