BJ73V Turbo, Leaf Springs?

[Gyrkin]

Newbie here, witha 1986 70... You can see pics of it at my homepage. I have a few questions... hope some of you can help out?

1. What"s the story on the Turbo? This one has turbo indicator lights, but the guy told me that this is not the Turbo model. Is there a non-turbo model?

2 a.It looks like the rear left leaf springs are either no longer compressed or broken. Pics at the same URL... but not very bright. I can take more. Will it be possible to bind them together again, or ? The front leaf springs aren't even either... and I THINK the rear left shock is probably toast. Suggestions?

3. Anyone else in Africa reading this stuff?

I look forward to hearing from you guys, but usually emails are best. THANKS!

JT

 

[roscoFJ73]

If it was a turbo it would be a BJ74. Maybe someone has fitted a turbo dash to your non turbo or it could be a 74 that has been robbed of its turbo engine.The exact model and engine type is on the firewall plate. 3B= non turbo 13BT = turbo engine

The springs are better off replaced with new. They can be rebuilt but yours look a bit far gone.The rears are the same as a 60 series.
You might be able to add some leafs to prop it up

The pics suggest it was from Holland originally because of the raised roof in the rear section. We have another member with a similar roof.

I also saw in your pics your puzzlement at why anyone would want to lower the windscreen.
Its because this model came with a soft top option and theyu built them all with the hinged windscreen.
The upside is the rusty frames can easily be removed and replaced

 

[Gyrkin]

Thanks for the info.

I guess you are right about it being sold in Holland originally. You are the second person to tell me that. The other is a Belgian neighbor here in Dakar who tells me that it was done to raise the interior high enough to get around import duty regs... something about how they didn't pay duty if the interior was above a certain height.

The problem with changing the leaf springs is that it is VERY VERY hard and or expensive to get new stuff here in Dakar. Freight is not cheap and often slow. Air Freight is obscenely expensive, and Dakar isn't quite in any route except from Paris via Air France and From J-burg to NYC via South African Air, so... much as I would love to be able to plop down a little cash and buy the stuff, it just ain't that easy in a 3rd world country.

The second surprise came this morning, when I found that one of the two batteries doesn't hold a charge overnight. I am off to look up the specs on it and find out what the amperage is supposed to be.

Looking forward to other comments... and very much appreciate yours!

 

[roscoFJ73]

Thanks for the info.

I guess you are right about it being sold in Holland originally. You are the second person to tell me that. The other is a Belgian neighbor here in Dakar who tells me that it was done to raise the interior high enough to get around import duty regs... something about how they didn't pay duty if the interior was above a certain height.

The problem with changing the leaf springs is that it is VERY VERY hard and or expensive to get new stuff here in Dakar. Freight is not cheap and often slow. Air Freight is obscenely expensive, and Dakar isn't quite in any route except from Paris via Air France and From J-burg to NYC via South African Air, so... much as I would love to be able to plop down a little cash and buy the stuff, it just ain't that easy in a 3rd world country.

The second surprise came this morning, when I found that one of the two batteries doesn't hold a charge overnight. I am off to look up the specs on it and find out what the amperage is supposed to be.

Looking forward to other comments... and very much appreciate yours!

In regard to the springs ,are there any locals who can help.Maybe they know where a wreck is with some springs on it,although I imagine most of the vehicles there would have springs like yours.
Or maybe some of the locals could make a spring or cut down some larger ones to fit yours. Sometimes the locals can be very enterprising when it comes to makeshift repairs.

Is this a 24 v or 12 v? If its a 24v and one battery dies then you must replace both .
Are the battery leads in good condition and tight at BOTH ends?

 

[Gyrkin]

The plate and paperwork state it is a BJ73, but most of the rest of the plaque besides that and the VIN are illegible, cuz some idiot painted it along with the rest of the firewall. I dunno if Toyota would help with such details if I gave them the VIN...

This is 24 volt system... but scientifically, why would one have to replace both if one is still good? I can check all the leads, but if anything the brass looks about welded in place. Then again, the best I can figure is that one battery company suggests that the 88 2.5 doesn't need much, under 60 amps, per battery. Maybe that is owing to that there are two batteries? Be nice to know what the factory specs are. Maybe the other guy who just got one in off the boat can read his?

As to the leaf springs, yeah, there are none better than the West Africans about making parts out of scraps from other vehicles. Some even have miniature forges for the purpose... but I am still wishing to hell I could buy a proper set of suspension. When you go out solo huge distances from the nearest village for a living, ya really kinda want the thing to hold its own.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Im not too sure about why batteries have to be the same for 24 v but its been well and truly discussed on this forum.
Both of my landcruisers are 12v and I dont take too much notice of the 24v dramas.

One of the main problems is when one battery has a 12v radio or other appliance attached to a single battery

 

[hoser]

The plate and paperwork state it is a BJ73, but most of the rest of the plaque besides that and the VIN are illegible, cuz some idiot painted it along with the rest of the firewall. I dunno if Toyota would help with such details if I gave them the VIN...

My door plate was painted over too. I first tried using a mild citrus based paint remover (Goo Gone) and fortunately it worked! It completely removed the overspray without damaging the VIN plate. If they didn't work, my next plan was going to use aircraft paint remover which doesn't etch aluminum.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The plate and paperwork state it is a BJ73, but most of the rest of the plaque besides that and the VIN are illegible, cuz some idiot painted it along with the rest of the firewall. I dunno if Toyota would help with such details if I gave them the VIN...

.

The info on the plaque will confim that you have a 5sp or auto,the diff ratio and type(lockers LSD or open)the intended market,colour and trim,L or RHD,rear door type,roof and turbo/non turbo.
Not much you cant work out for yourself.

 

[Basie]

3. Yes Gyrkin. Somebody else from Africa and enjoyuing this forum. I am from Namibia and though we arer supposed to be a third world country in most respects we have no problem sourcing parts etc from South Africa. but I msut say, I drool when I see prices tha the Aussies pay and when I hear of the twin turbo V8

 

[Ron R]

If I may chime in here, being from the Netherlands...?

Think your opinion about the rig originating (well...originating..) from the Netherlands is right. Don't know of any country except ours that has contributed to the odd roof-extension.
It's a bit complicated but it all comes down to taxes (from which we, Dutchies, are very weary)
It used to work from two sides having such a high roof. First, buying the rig new, you only had to pay VAT and not a certain extra tax just for private cars (around 20-30% of the value) and secondly your roadtaxes were lower than those for a comparabel rig that had seats in the rear.
This rig has windows in the FRP-top so somebody has modified it, because according this silly rules there are no windows allowed in the side walls of the cargo-area. Silly rule because of this many accidents have happened due to the restricted view.

Then as far as the electric system.
Think your's is a genuine 24V system. If so, reason you have to replace both batteries, as Rosco mentions, is that the batteries in these systems should have exactly the same characteristics, preferably originate from the same batch.
Then, before using them the first time, make sure they are equally charged.
To do that I prefer to charge them with a battery-charger having them connected parallel (plus to plus, minus to minus) Once fully charged and in the rig they get connected in series. All should be fine.
But watch it: Check that there is NO CENTRE TAP to feed ***ANY*** 12V equipment, not even the memory of a car radio, nix, nothing, njet, nada!!.
What I mean is that people often connect the 12V-plus connection of 12V equipment to the plus terminal of the 'lower' battery (the battery that has its minus directly connected to the carbody and its plus connected to the minus of the second battery).
If connected that way they have a cheap 12V source ----They think.
But because this lower battery gets more drained than the upper battery, the alternator will try to compensate and will overcharge the upper battery, thus shortening it's life remarkably. Often these batteries won't survive a year of use under these conditions.
If, for whatever reason, you had to tap from one of the batteries (normally that will be the lower one) recharge them as soon as possible in the way I described above, so disconnect from the vehicles system, put them in parallel and fully recharge.

 

[Gyrkin]

Ron and Basie,

Thanks for the replies.

Ron, that was an excellent explanation as to why there may be an issue. In this case, the radio was attached to that end, but the search lights might be attached to the other one. For that matter, though, another question comes to mind. If it is as you suggest, wouldn't the same problem exist if one takes a tap for 24v lights, grabbing the hot from just one battery and the ground to frame or somesuch? Still one battery more than the other, no? What do you suggest as a solution to the problem?

Basie, have you got any resources you might share? Here they are trying to find used ones and will probably shove any ole strip of tired metal in there... Makes me really wish this was a spring model, so I could just buy new ones! Can I come live in your country instead? Here in Senegal it seems to be a big deal to get ANYTHING in from elsewhere.

Finally, to all of you with the same vehicle: If you have leaf springs on yours (Ron R's icon looks like my LC) do you have specifications? Length, thickness, how many leafs? I kinda doubt mine is proper or stock, and the Toyota dealership says they have to order them, but does not know the specs... says they have to have me bring it in so they can see it. This is very much a normal BS response in West Africa. No matter what or why, they want you to come in, to attend them. Very annoying, and all of this is keeping me from getting out into the country to get work done!

While underneath, I also found that some of the bolts attaching motor at flywheel are missing, and others were very loose. So I am not driving it any more until I get them replaced, and then only to a shop who can do the blasted leaf springs. It is strange, but even if you have money here, you still just can't get things fixed properly. Any help you guys can offer is greatly appreciated.

J

 

[Ron R]

Ron and Basie,

Thanks for the replies.

Ron, that was an excellent explanation as to why there may be an issue. In this case, the radio was attached to that end, but the search lights might be attached to the other one. For that matter, though, another question comes to mind. If it is as you suggest, wouldn't the same problem exist if one takes a tap for 24v lights, grabbing the hot from just one battery and the ground to frame or somesuch? Still one battery more than the other, no? What do you suggest as a solution to the problem?

Not sure or I understand you here.
Are you sure these lights are 24V not 12V? They should be 24V but sometimes 24 V bulbs are hard to get and then people do silly things.
If you are using 24V lights, they will (or better:should) be using from both batteries. The minus of the lights should be connected to body/frame ground, the plus to the plus of the second battery.
Like :
body/frame-->minus terminal bat 1 -- plus terminal bat 1---->minus terminal bat 2 -- plus terminal bat 2 ---> (switch/relay) -->lights(if more than one: in parallel)--->body/frame.

Anything that taps from just ONE of the batteries should be disconnected because it will damage the batteries as described in my previous posting.
Effectively this means that nothing should be connected to the interconnection between the two batteries.

NOTE: If you cannot get 24V bulbs then use two 12v bulbs (same Wattage) in series. Disadvantage is that, if one of the two bulbs blows, the other one will extinguish as well.

Basie, have you got any resources you might share? Here they are trying to find used ones and will probably shove any ole strip of tired metal in there... Makes me really wish this was a spring model, so I could just buy new ones! Can I come live in your country instead? Here in Senegal it seems to be a big deal to get ANYTHING in from elsewhere.

Finally, to all of you with the same vehicle: If you have leaf springs on yours (Ron R's icon looks like my LC) do you have specifications? Length, thickness, how many leafs? I kinda doubt mine is proper or stock, and the Toyota dealership says they have to order them, but does not know the specs... says they have to have me bring it in so they can see it. This is very much a normal BS response in West Africa. No matter what or why, they want you to come in, to attend them. Very annoying, and all of this is keeping me from getting out into the country to get work done!

Sorry cannot help here. My rig has off standard leaf springs.They are parabolics, have three leafs up front and four at the rear but are in no way comparabel to the standard springs.

While underneath, I also found that some of the bolts attaching motor at flywheel are missing, and others were very loose. So I am not driving it any more until I get them replaced, and then only to a shop who can do the blasted leaf springs. It is strange, but even if you have money here, you still just can't get things fixed properly. Any help you guys can offer is greatly appreciated.

J

Darn, that rig seems to be abused..Feel sorry for you.
These rigs are strong but there is a limit to it......loose flywheel bolts !!!!

 

[Gyrkin]

I got the following specs from the Ironman site, and wonder if they agree with what you guys have in this 2-door model?

Front:
Their Part Number: TOY007B D/S N/S
Length A (mm) 565
Length B (mm) 645
Camber (mm) 220/205
Leaves 6+1

Rear:
Their Part Number: TOY008B
Length A (mm) 550
Length B (mm) 590
Camber (mm) 180
Leaves 7

Many thanks!

 

[Gyrkin]

Ron,

I am sure that the standard headlamps are 24v... but there are a couple pairs of aftermarket headlamps on it as well, and a radio. The guy I bought it from SAYS that they put some sort of voltage reducer in line, but I majorly doubt it. It is attached to a post, presumably on the second battery (the one on the left side as one faces the engine from the front, looking at the compartment.) It is the extra stuff that I am worried about... as well as how I can properly and safely add other 12 volt gear...

Yeah, most stuff down here is abused, be it vehicles or horses. We won't get into the mentality, just leave it at that I struggle with that aspect most days that I am here in Dakar. It isn't so bad in the villages, where people may be simple, but are good hearted. In Dakar, anything that continues to go down the road is considered a good fix... and that is how this one got to be in such shape. But it is what I have to work with, so...

Please be patient with me while I grasp this 24 volt thing? You talked about not tapping into the connection between the two batteries. Is it somehow still 12 volts to grab a battery post and use the frame for ground? I am thinking that would give 24 volts. Maybe I am still not grasping something...

JT

 

[Ron R]

Ron,

I am sure that the standard headlamps are 24v... but there are a couple pairs of aftermarket headlamps on it as well, and a radio. The guy I bought it from SAYS that they put some sort of voltage reducer in line, but I majorly doubt it. It is attached to a post, presumably on the second battery (the one on the left side as one faces the engine from the front, looking at the compartment.) It is the extra stuff that I am worried about... as well as how I can properly and safely add other 12 volt gear...

All the rigs systems should be 24 V, so as long as you're talking about original stuff (like headlights) you should not have to worry.
The aftermarket light can be 24V but don't need to. Then, to complicate the matter, if you connect two 12V bulbs in series they can be looked at as ONE 24v light and be hooked up to 24V.

Normally a 24V item (like a light0 would be connected like this:
- bat 1 + -- - bat 2 +

|___ 24V light_____|

Two 12V lights acting as one 24V would be connected as follows:

- bat 1 + -- - bat 2 +

|_ 12V light_12Vlight_|

A radio can be connected by means of a voltage reducer.
This so called 24V to 12V converter is conneted to the 24 V system and reduces the 24 V to 12 V
A reducer like that doesn't need to be very large and the radio should be directly connected to that box.

I'll try to make some pictures of my engine compartment and draw some diagrams tomorrow. It's too late now (almost 2:00 am) and I'm going to sleep....

Yeah, most stuff down here is abused, be it vehicles or horses. We won't get into the mentality, just leave it at that I struggle with that aspect most days that I am here in Dakar. It isn't so bad in the villages, where people may be simple, but are good hearted. In Dakar, anything that continues to go down the road is considered a good fix... and that is how this one got to be in such shape. But it is what I have to work with, so...

Please be patient with me while I grasp this 24 volt thing? You talked about not tapping into the connection between the two batteries. Is it somehow still 12 volts to grab a battery post and use the frame for ground? I am thinking that would give 24 volts. Maybe I am still not grasping something...

JT

Yep, the connection from the first to the second battery is on 12V compared to ground. It's the plus side of the second batt that has 24V , measured against ground.

Don't worry...We will get there!

 

[roscoFJ73]

I got the following specs from the Ironman site, and wonder if they agree with what you guys have in this 2-door model?

Front:
Their Part Number: TOY007B D/S N/S
Length A (mm) 565
Length B (mm) 645
Camber (mm) 220/205
Leaves 6+1

Rear:
Their Part Number: TOY008B
Length A (mm) 550
Length B (mm) 590
Camber (mm) 180
Leaves 7

Many thanks!

You can cross reference them on Ironman's site. The front springs on a 73 or 74 series are the same as a 75.
The rear springs are the same as a 60 series.

Are those measurements from the eye to the centre of the axle ?

 

[Ron R]

I promised to post a picture and diagram, hopefully to clarify.
Here they are:
on top: overview of my engine bay.
Clearly visible the two batteries. The red line marks the (fat!!!) cable that connects battery 1 and battery 2. The green line marks the cable to ground.
Second picture is a diagram.
I used the same indications in both pictures.

Where you see the word 'NO' at the top, the arrow is pointing to the connection between the two batts.
Because the batteries are connected this way we say they are connected in series. Thus there value( each is 12V) is added, providing 24V to the system.
Nothing should ever be connected to this, be it at the cable itself or the terminals (there is just one exception - a balancer - but we will leave that out of the discussion as not to unnecesseraly complicate matters here).

BTW the 'arrow' is a symbol that stands for a ground connection.

From the diagram you can see how a 'normal user' is connected. For example two 24 lights (could also be a wiper motor) each light is connected to the 24 V source. In real life there would be an on/off switch somewhere, for clarity I've left that out.
Here we say the two lights are connected in parallel. Each light has it's own connection to +24V and ground.

Then the two 12 V lights. As you can see only one light is directly connected to +24 V. The other end connects to the second light and the second light connects to ground. We call this in series. Very similar to the batteries.
Nothing wrong to do it this way. Drawback is that, if one of the lights fails, the other one will not function, because the connection is broken.

Last item is the 24 to 12 V convertor.
All this thing does is transform the 24V system voltage into 12V. This then is a 12V source for 12V equipment like standard car-radio's, CB's etc.
Normally this converter is connected to the 24V system through a relay, that way that the convertor is disconnected when ignition is 'OFF'
This is because these convertors tend to draw a little amount of current by themselves, thus draining the batteries over time.
Hope this clarifies the basics a littlebit.

 

[Gyrkin]

Ron,

So everything is connecting to the Plus terminal on Battery Two for its Hot end, and the frame for Negative/ground? I am a LITTLE confused by the statement that nothing should be connected to the terminals. Connect to a distribution panel, per se, like the fusebox, instead?

The balancer is also called an Equalizer, intended to keep the two charged equally?

I will take some pictures later of the undercarriage where the flywheel cover is sort of at... but that is a separate nightmare.

Got word from Ironman on the costs. About 1000 USD for the complete kit... 1200 with greasable shackles, etc., which would be fine, BUT... another $2k for air freight, which is NOT okay. I have asked them to find a sane shipping solution. If they hit me up for duties too, I may as well just buy another truck... or let the locals weld something together.

Many thanks for the illustrations and explanations! I think I'm pretty close to grasping it now.

 

[Gyrkin]

Roscoe,

No clue what their chart's info used as its standard, what the specs refer to. They DID say that it would lift it about 2 inches in the process, and perhaps as much as 70 mm overall, including some sag in the current system. I couldn't possibly care less if it lifts it a little bit... but $2k is just too much for freight.

If it includes a lift, I suppose the original leaf springs are a little shorter, so they have less bow?

 

[Ron R]

Ron,

So everything is connecting to the Plus terminal on Battery Two for its Hot end, and the frame for Negative/ground? I am a LITTLE confused by the statement that nothing should be connected to the terminals. Connect to a distribution panel, per se, like the fusebox, instead?

As long as you connect things to the plus terminal of battery 2 (the terminal at the far right hand side in my drawing that feeds the lights etc) that is okay. But you should NOT connect anything 'in between' the batteries, the two terminals of the two batteries that are connected by the red line.

The balancer is also called an Equalizer, intended to keep the two charged equally?

Yep, you are right.
But bear in mind, an equalizer (or load balancer) is not a 24-12V converter.

I will take some pictures later of the undercarriage where the flywheel cover is sort of at... but that is a separate nightmare.

Looking forward to that.

Got word from Ironman on the costs. About 1000 USD for the complete kit... 1200 with greasable shackles, etc., which would be fine, BUT... another $2k for air freight, which is NOT okay. I have asked them to find a sane shipping solution. If they hit me up for duties too, I may as well just buy another truck... or let the locals weld something together.

Ouch, that hurts. The price for the kit is not that high but it's the shipping -and maybe duties- that make it hurt.

Many thanks for the illustrations and explanations! I think I'm pretty close to grasping it now.

You're welcome. Glad I can help a bit. Wish could do more.