BJ40 Questions

[btfury]

I'm new here and have a few questions regarding BJ40s. I currently drive a Jeep Cherokee with 5in of lift, 32s and a bunch of other goodies, and am starting to think about getting a Cruiser instead.

I love my Jeep, but I read something about the BJ40 series Cruisers getting around 30 mpg. I would also love to be able to run biodesel. Basically, I love the idea of being able to drive one of the most capable off road vehicles ever made and still get fairly good mileage...

I've got a few questions.

1. Can they really get around 30mpg?
2. Do they make good daily drivers?
3. Could I find one in good enough condition for me to drive it daily for under 10k?

I'm a college student so I don't have a lot of money, and it would be my primary vehicle... So I'm just trying to see if this would be a smart move.

Thanks!

 

[amaurer]

I'm new here and have a few questions regarding BJ40s. I currently drive a Jeep Cherokee with 5in of lift, 32s and a bunch of other goodies, and am starting to think about getting a Cruiser instead.

I love my Jeep, but I read something about the BJ40 series Cruisers getting around 30 mpg. I would also love to be able to run biodesel. Basically, I love the idea of being able to drive one of the most capable off road vehicles ever made and still get fairly good mileage...

I've got a few questions.

1. Can they really get around 30mpg?
2. Do they make good daily drivers?
3. Could I find one in good enough condition for me to drive it daily for under 10k?

I'm a college student so I don't have a lot of money, and it would be my primary vehicle... So I'm just trying to see if this would be a smart move.

Thanks!

No, No, Yes.

Same questions all the time. You'll get about 20 in town, the 30mpg quote is popular but its a highway figure in Imperial gallons [canada]. In this country expect 25 max. I track every fill up on my BJ42 and max in town was 21.8.

Daily driving is doable, as for "good", that arguable. They're rough, loud, and smelly. On a college budget, I'd imagine you're not going to buy the creme of the crop which means you won't have AC or power steering. You'll live, there is no comparing it to a Cherokee.

If you don't have a lot of money, or you don't do all of your own labor, forget it. Parts are expensive and you will need lots of parts. Especially if you buy an inexpensive version, you will have repairs to do right off the bat. I've been fixing things for 6 months or about 3k. At some point they last forever, but I think that point is when you're old enough to forget all the repairs you're making, or forever only means a few more years...

All that said, I've never regretted making mine my DD. You adapt.

 

[btfury]

No, No, Yes.

Same questions all the time. You'll get about 20 in town, the 30mpg quote is popular but its a highway figure in Imperial gallons [canada]. In this country expect 25 max. I track every fill up on my BJ42 and max in town was 21.8.

Daily driving is doable, as for "good", that arguable. They're rough, loud, and smelly. On a college budget, I'd imagine you're not going to buy the creme of the crop which means you won't have AC or power steering. You'll live, there is no comparing it to a Cherokee.

If you don't have a lot of money, or you don't do all of your own labor, forget it. Parts are expensive and you will need lots of parts. Especially if you buy an inexpensive version, you will have repairs to do right off the bat. I've been fixing things for 6 months or about 3k. At some point they last forever, but I think that point is when you're old enough to forget all the repairs you're making, or forever only means a few more years...

All that said, I've never regretted making mine my DD. You adapt.

So when you say "there is no comparing it to a Cherokee," I'm assuming you're saying that the Cruiser is a much better vehicle?

Also, I do pretty much all of my own labor on my XJ... Would a Cruiser be a lot more difficult to wrench on? And would parts for the Cruiser be a lot more expensive than parts for the Cherokee?

 

[amaurer]

So when you say "there is no comparing it to a Cherokee," I'm assuming you're saying that the Cruiser is a much better vehicle?

Also, I do pretty much all of my own labor on my XJ... Would a Cruiser be a lot more difficult to wrench on? And would parts for the Cruiser be a lot more expensive than parts for the Cherokee?

No, I'm saying that a Cruiser, especially a diesel, is a very different vehicle. You can't really talk or listen to a radio inside it at anything over 35mph. In the summer its too hot, in the winter its too cold. Its bouncy, it rattles. Its slow, you'll be an obstacle both trying to get up to speed for and on a highway. The slow lane is your permanent home, as going over than 60mph on a diesel is too fast. Forget passing. You'll look cool as all hell, however.

People here would probably argue its better offroad; more capable, reliable, and durable. For a DD thats not really the issue, however.

I think the cruiser is the easiest vehicle to work on that I've ever owned; it'll certainly be easier to work on than the Cherokee. However parts will be expensive: you didn't say anything about the year, but they'll probably be as-or-more expensive than a Jeep. There are some fairly serious availability issues for diesels in the states, as they weren't sold here. Most parts are discontinued from Toyota, so you have to scrounge... for example, if your alternator goes out on a diesel, its simply impossible to remedy without a couple weeks of downtime and lots of $. There are some vendors that help to fill the gap so its certainly doable, but you'll rarely if ever run over to Napa and just pick something up; anytime something breaks you have to be prepared for some time on the net researching what interchanges, whats discontinued, what could be made to work.

You DD a cruiser because you want to, not because it makes sense. Don't kid yourself.

 

[ohrly?]

I've never owned a different vehicle, , my bj40 is perfect for daily driving, excellent fuel economy, enough torque to push myself through congested intersections and i have no worries about fixing scratches, radio or cd players are for pussies, highways are for pussies, jeeps are for pussies,

buy it

 

[singletrackjunkie]

I have an 81 BJ42 as my daily driver. x2 on finding parts, many are 24v so even minor parts like replacing a bulb can be hard to find. I don't have a radio ac or power steering, amaurer is right, it is too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer. Having said that I wouldn't trade it for a newer vehicle. It is the coolest vehicle I've ever had IMO. If you're looking for good economy get a prius but if you want a sweet ride that you can take off road get a cruiser and you won't regret it. Oh yeah, x2 on what ohrly said too.

 

[bagh33ra]

x3 @ ohrly

If you love it, then the diesel 40's are totally worth it. If you don't love fixing things, being loud around town, standing out in traffic (forget hiding from anyone in one of these), taking the slow road to everywhere, etc etc.. then perhaps not for you.

All that said, not trading my '42 for anything. Ever. Although maybe years down the road I'll swap out the 3B for something more modern (I know, I know, cardinal sin but I mean like 15-20-30 years from now and another toyota diesel...)

If you are hesitant, try to drive one before you buy it. If the above posts sound like you, then buy one and welcome aboard!

 

[gettocruiser]

my neighbor says to me one day " your truck sounds just like a massey ferguson tractor..." it probably drives like one. probably suck it california rush hour.
but when the apocalypse comes we will see who still gets to work on time.
eric

 

[fuelgeddes]

I am working on mybj40 1979 trying to get it up to DD status, (I think its there) you need to really do a lot of research on what to look for or else you are going to drop a lot more money. The problem you are going to have is that everyone is out there with the same idea BJ40 LHD, in the USA. Just try and find one for under 10k first. There is one around here right now for 13k RHD. needs work...

If I could I would buy another one...

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

I'va actually seen 30 plus MPG on my BJ44. It's a 2B and I was keeping it under 70 mph the whole way from San Diego to Colorado.

In the winter or "short" drives (under 10 miles) the engine will not warm up enough to heat you and will not get nearly the economy. It is a great truck. I am glad to have a second car for 'quick' trips to denver! Plus, you'll become a great mechanic unless you are loaded as parts are scarce and mechanics that know half of what in known on this board are few and far between.

Good luck.

K

 

[Volcano cruiser]

I have owned a Cherokee and now I have a BJ40. I love the 40. The Cherokee crapped out on me after 4 years, my 40 is still rolling after 28, just saying. Yeah it is loud but that is good for making people think twice about cutting you off in traffic. Mine is my DD and I get good mileage, I'd give you numbers but I'm still trying to find time to do the liters/km to gallons/mile with no trip odometer etc. IMO the 40 is a better vehicle. Any car that can stand being bounced up and down this earthquake prone country's mountains for 28 years and still is kicking is what I want. The parts are tough to find for 24v models I have a 12v. If you find sourcing 24v parts to be a problem then there is your first mod. It is a little rough to heat up in the morning but only for the first 5-10 minutes after that the original B engine runs just fine and smooth for the rest of the day. Depending on what you want to do with the rig owning a cruiser can be an expensive addiction. Having said that if you can find one for a decent price and just keeping it in decent running shape while in your starving college years, this rig will be there for you to modify and spruce up to your hearts content after you graduate and get a J-O-B.( good luck BTW) I think that they are fun cars to drive, pretty simple to work on mechanically and they are built like tanks. Sounds like an investment to me IMO
Good luck

 

[btfury]

Thanks for all of the advice, guys. I guess I should have specified a little on my current ride. It's a 2000 Cherokee, and like I said before, I put the lift on myself and have done pretty much all of the work that has needed to be done to it.

There are a few things that really appeal to me about the BJ40. I like the fact that it's an old vehicle, and mechanically very simple. My Jeep is pretty simple compared to modern day vehicles, but the Cruiser would be a helluva lot more simple, I think. I also have wanted to drive a diesel vehicle for a long time now. From a sustainability stand point, you can't beat driving a 20+ year old vehicle and running it on biodiesel. I also have always wanted a cruiser...

I'm sure it's louder, smellier, hotter and colder than my XJ, but I honestly don't care a lot about that. The only thing that I'm concerned with is the highway driving aspect. I'd say 70% or so of my driving is done on the highway, with driving back and forth from school and what not, and I want to make sure that the Cruiser would be up for that...

Also, did Toyota ever make a diesel version of the FJ60, and if so would that be something to consider?

 

[samwise]

but when the apocalypse comes we will see who still gets to work on time.


Thats awesome!!

 

[amaurer]

I'm sure it's louder, smellier, hotter and colder than my XJ, but I honestly don't care a lot about that. The only thing that I'm concerned with is the highway driving aspect. I'd say 70% or so of my driving is done on the highway, with driving back and forth from school and what not, and I want to make sure that the Cruiser would be up for that...

They go fine on the highway. With a 4 speed and 31" tires, however, I feel that 55mph is your max speed (thats about 2800 RPM, 60 is around 3000, and your redline is only 4100!). Here in California thats fine, but back in Chicago doing 55 on the highway is downright dangerous.

Also, did Toyota ever make a diesel version of the FJ60, and if so would that be something to consider?

Yes, they did, in both 4 and 6 cylinder versions (BJ60/HJ60, respectively). Those might even be easier to find for you, and they'll be more aking to your Cherokee in terms of size and comfort. The BJ60 shares an engine with the BJ42 but adds a lot of truck, however, so for as slow as the BJ42 is, the BJ60 is slower.

 

[btfury]

They go fine on the highway. With a 4 speed and 31" tires, however, I feel that 55mph is your max speed (thats about 2800 RPM, 60 is around 3000, and your redline is only 4100!). Here in California thats fine, but back in Chicago doing 55 on the highway is downright dangerous.



Yes, they did, in both 4 and 6 cylinder versions (BJ60/HJ60, respectively). Those might even be easier to find for you, and they'll be more aking to your Cherokee in terms of size and comfort. The BJ60 shares an engine with the BJ42 but adds a lot of truck, however, so for as slow as the BJ42 is, the BJ60 is slower.

So with 31in tires and a 4 speed, 55mph is pretty much the max speed? Is that what they come with from the factory?

 

[btfury]

also, i've got another question...

as far as lift kits go, does anyone happen to know how the prices would compare to kits for Cherokees? I'm assuming they would be cheaper, bc of the leaf sprung front end and simpler steering... but someone correct me if im wrong

 

[safari]

This is a timely discussion, as I am still looking into buying one of these cars... I am also about to start graduate school so have a similar "cost" issue (as well as environmental concerns).

I've decided that if I buy an old LC, like a BJ40 or 42, I will convert it to run completely on WVO. The cost of converting the car (if you aren't a mechanic, which I'm not) is $1000, after which the cost of fuel is close to $0 if you can find a friendly restaurant to supply you. I've then figured that since I am unlikely to learn how to fix the car myself, the cost of maintenance will be what most people are paying for fuel/per mo. Not sure how reasonable that is but that's my calculation at the moment.

Anyhow, just my 2 cents.

I'm curious to ask the experts here if there is a great deal of difference in mechanics/maintenance/general reliability between the BJ40 and 42 models. The former seem to be cheaper up front, does this mean they cost more to maintain? It certainly seems as if reselling a BJ40 takes longer than selling a 42. Why are the BJ42s more valuable?

EDIT: for instance, is it a big deal that the bj40s dont have disk brakes?

 

[Volcano cruiser]

There are a few things that really appeal to me about the BJ40. I like the fact that it's an old vehicle, and mechanically very simple. My Jeep is pretty simple compared to modern day vehicles, but the Cruiser would be a helluva lot more simple, I think. I also have wanted to drive a diesel vehicle for a long time now. From a sustainability stand point, you can't beat driving a 20+ year old vehicle and running it on biodiesel. I also have always wanted a cruiser...

I'm sure it's louder, smellier, hotter and colder than my XJ, but I honestly don't care a lot about that. The only thing that I'm concerned with is the highway driving aspect. I'd say 70% or so of my driving is done on the highway, with driving back and forth from school and what not, and I want to make sure that the Cruiser would be up for that...

Also, did Toyota ever make a diesel version of the FJ60, and if so would that be something to consider?

Ok. Yes, you have the 60 series diesels, BJ and HJ60. They are more like my old Cherokee in their "station wagon" like configuration. They can use the same "B" or "H" series engines that run on the 40 series rigs. As to highway speeds many of the late model BJ40/42 came with a 3B engine. One of the first mods that people do to get more pop is turbo the 3B. After that it really boils down to a safety issue. The only reason why I don't drive faster than 55 is because I have wobbly steering/ front end that needs re-doing. Assuming that you do the work to insure that your brakes and steering are above reproach and the engine is properly tuned, then buckle up and drive her like you mean it. Trust me, as soon as my steering and brakes are finished, I will.

This is a timely discussion, as I am still looking into buying one of these cars... I am also about to start graduate school so have a similar "cost" issue (as well as environmental concerns).

I've decided that if I buy an old LC, like a BJ40 or 42, I will convert it to run completely on WVO. The cost of converting the car (if you aren't a mechanic, which I'm not) is $1000, after which the cost of fuel is close to $0 if you can find a friendly restaurant to supply you. I've then figured that since I am unlikely to learn how to fix the car myself, the cost of maintenance will be what most people are paying for fuel/per mo. Not sure how reasonable that is but that's my calculation at the moment.

Anyhow, just my 2 cents.

I'm curious to ask the experts here if there is a great deal of difference in mechanics/maintenance/general reliability between the BJ40 and 42 models. The former seem to be cheaper up front, does this mean they cost more to maintain? It certainly seems as if reselling a BJ40 takes longer than selling a 42. Why are the BJ42s more valuable?

Ok in terms of "converting" a BJ40, diesel rig to run filtered WVO, basically you don't have to do jack. The beauty of the rig is that it will run it as is. Remeber I said filtered, as in processed WVO, the stuff that has already been through a still. The ir are guys here who even still run their original rubber fuel lines and haven't reported any probs. Many guys will change out the fuel lines to Viton lined fuel lines so that they can run bio-diesel as well as SVO/WVO. The reason gets to the second mod. Depending on where you live and how cold the winters get there many guys mix biodiesel or regular diesel with SVO/WVO during the coldest months to avoid having the VO gel in the fuel lines. Lots of Canadians get fuel line heaters, etc. The list goes on. You should go hang in the alternative fuel sub forum where all of this is discussed in detail. Might be worth it for both of you guys to PM Josh in that forum. He has been riding his 60 series all over this region for months and by now may have figured out a way to run his 60 on chicken poo (no BS). He can give you all of the alt fuel skinny as well as how 60's ride on the highway. Good luck.

 

[amaurer]

So with 31in tires and a 4 speed, 55mph is pretty much the max speed? Is that what they come with from the factory?

One of the first mods that people do to get more pop is turbo the 3B. After that it really boils down to a safety issue. The only reason why I don't drive faster than 55 is because I have wobbly steering/ front end that needs re-doing. Assuming that you do the work to insure that your brakes and steering are above reproach and the engine is properly tuned, then buckle up and drive her like you mean it. Trust me, as soon as my steering and brakes are finished, I will.

Yes, 4 speed is stock. 5 speeds exist, but only in the rarest late-model BJ42s (83+), the LX model. Stock tires are ~30" I think, and they actually make all these numbers worse. 31"s are about the biggest you can fit without any rubbing with the stock suspension height, and give you a small "rubber overdrive".

Respectfully, I think jabxyz is giving very bad advice here, for a number of reasons:

• Adding a turbo will lower EGTs, removing only one of the barriers to higher speeds.
• Brakes and steering being in good condition is a must, but even in perfect shape they're just not set up for high speed driving. 40 series steering has more than 5 links in it, it'll always be a little sloppy. And if you have drum brakes (as all 40's pre-late-70's, and BJ's from Aus/NZ for all years) you've got about one good highway stop before they fade. Its just part of the design.
• If you exceed 60mph your gas mileage will start to suck. One of the reason the BJ4*'s have good economy numbers is because they force slower driving. Look at the 40's profile, compare it to an Ferrari. See the problem?
• Even if all of the above don't stop you (which, I confess, in my younger years I would have ignored them too) you're just winding that engine up too high. At 60mph you're at 3000rpm, or ~75% of redline. To go 70mph you're at 3500, which is 85% of redline. To compare this to a Civic (redline ~8000, I'd guess) you'd be driving around at 6800rpm!!!! Its just too fast.

I'm curious to ask the experts here if there is a great deal of difference in mechanics/maintenance/general reliability between the BJ40 and 42 models. The former seem to be cheaper up front, does this mean they cost more to maintain? It certainly seems as if reselling a BJ40 takes longer than selling a 42. Why are the BJ42s more valuable?

EDIT: for instance, is it a big deal that the bj40s dont have disk brakes?

The maintenance costs will be similar. The 3B in a BJ42 (versus the B in a BJ40) was built far later and longer than the B, so parts will be easier to find. Which is really not saying much, considering how hard either of them are to find in the US. Every little bit helps though.

Not all BJ42's have disks up front, depending on country of origin. Mine has drums all around, its not a big deal, I probably won't change it.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Yes, 4 speed is stock. 5 speeds exist, but only in the rarest late-model BJ42s (83+), the LX model. Stock tires are ~30" I think, and they actually make all these numbers worse. 31"s are about the biggest you can fit without any rubbing with the stock suspension height, and give you a small "rubber overdrive".

Respectfully, I think jabxyz is giving very bad advice here, for a number of reasons:

• Adding a turbo will lower EGTs, removing only one of the barriers to higher speeds.
• Brakes and steering being in good condition is a must, but even in perfect shape they're just not set up for high speed driving. 40 series steering has more than 5 links in it, it'll always be a little sloppy. And if you have drum brakes (as all 40's pre-late-70's, and BJ's from Aus/NZ for all years) you've got about one good highway stop before they fade. Its just part of the design.
• If you exceed 60mph your gas mileage will start to suck. One of the reason the BJ4*'s have good economy numbers is because they force slower driving. Look at the 40's profile, compare it to an Ferrari. See the problem?
• Even if all of the above don't stop you (which, I confess, in my younger years I would have ignored them too) you're just winding that engine up too high. At 60mph you're at 3000rpm, or ~75% of redline. To go 70mph you're at 3500, which is 85% of redline. To compare this to a Civic (redline ~8000, I'd guess) you'd be driving around at 6800rpm!!!! Its just too fast.

The maintenance costs will be similar. The 3B in a BJ42 (versus the B in a BJ40) was built far later and longer than the B, so parts will be easier to find. Which is really not saying much, considering how hard either of them are to find in the US. Every little bit helps though.

Not all BJ42's have disks up front, depending on country of origin. Mine has drums all around, its not a big deal, I probably won't change it.

With respect, amaurer raises good points re: the steering however even a cursory search here will disclose that many members feel quite safe steering and stopping their rigs at highway speeds as daily drivers. Obviously we are not talking about street racing an almost 2 1/2 ton vehicle, just reasonably running a well tuned vehicle at highway speeds. As to adding a turbo to a 3B engine, it is one of the most common mods done, over many years, with well defined how to parameters and reportedly with excellent results. Many who have done it, taking care to keep the boost set at a reasonable level, have run the turbo for years with out the engine blowing up. I have never turboed a 3B, my B engine lacks the cooling skirt, so I can't give you a view based on personal experience with a turboed 3B , others can. Again "search engine is your friend here." As to drum brakes v. discs no contest, discs are better but again folks ran drums safely for years and again as long as you aren't planning to film a re-make of "Tokyo Drift" in a 40, you should be ok. My 1980 BJ40 came with discs up front and drums in the rear. So far they have been fine, even in a few hard stops at night on the highway trying to avoid a drunk cluelessly standing in the road in dark clothes, in the rain, with bad lighting and the usual dogs that are everywhere here. I'll probably leave the rear drums for another couple of months and see. Basically, as I understand it simply put you are college guy who wants to be able to drive home for vacation and get there before vacation is over.This should not be a problem. As always, even after tuning the engine and squaring away the brakes and steering only the driver of the vehicle will know if the vehicle is in good shape and if he is in control of it and feels safe. These are really good, strong trucks that are well designed and if well maintained and cared for will last, safely, for years. My advice, lurk around the forums some, chat with folks who use their rigs as you'd like to use yours. Gather the opinions of others and then reflect and decide. Again, good luck and welcome to MUD.