birfield seal replacement-any tips I need to know?

[RHON]

I just got a replacement birfeild seal set from SOR, anything special I need to know ?- somewhere a while back I saw something about tapping them in using a piece of wood- any help or insite would be , well ,....helpful.

Also, any tips on how to get those cone washers off of the hub without mutilating them? I've taken them off the cruiser before and my pickup and always manage to dammage them, the manual shows a center punch being used, but never has worked well for me.


thanks.

 

[Dirty Toad]

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php

 

[PAFJ]

Have lots of rags...

 

[89s rule]

make sure you have all parts b/f you get started I am waiting on outer split ring and inner ring b/c I thought they came with the kit I ordered.

Search on here and if you dont have an FSM it would be handy to get one. The job isnt really hard if you can follow directions and take your time you shoudl be fine.

 

[RHON]

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php

Thanks- lots of useful information here > and even photos.

 

[RHON]

make sure you have all parts b/f you get started I am waiting on outer split ring and inner ring b/c I thought they came with the kit I ordered.

Search on here and if you dont have an FSM it would be handy to get one. The job isnt really hard if you can follow directions and take your time you shoudl be fine.

Thanks a bunch....at the risk of sounding nieve, what exactly does FSM stand for?

 

[2mbb]

FSM=Factory Service Manual

If you don't have hardcopy you can download one from www.birfield.com.

Have fun.

 

[lovetoski]

I've also heard that FSM = Field Service Manual.

 

[2mbb]

Apparently, also FSM=Fashion Square Mall or FSM=free school meal

http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/Full+Service+Manual

 

[chicago]

The cone washers I used a brass drift and some PB blaster...It took a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG fricking time, but eventually, they worked their way free. I also used a small flat head screw driver to sort of gently tap around the outer lip to get some penetrating oil down around the seat. Theyre a real PITA, but just be careful with em and you should be fine.
For the inner axel seals, I used an 1 1/4 socket on an extension and GENTLY tapped them in being careful that it was positioned on the outer edge.

Good luck,

Chicago

 

[chicago]

make sure you have all parts b/f you get started I am waiting on outer split ring and inner ring b/c I thought they came with the kit I ordered.

Search on here and if you dont have an FSM it would be handy to get one. The job isnt really hard if you can follow directions and take your time you shoudl be fine.

X2
I thought the felt plates came with the kit...I got all set up to start the rebuild, and I looked like a monkey inspecting the parts... Nothing seemed to line up right... Im held up till I get those in as well.

Chicago

 

[nuclearlemon]

be sure to keep one drain pan under the knuckle when you pull everything apart. another for all the messy parts.

if you ever wanted to invest in a cheap parts washer, now's the time.

lots of nitrile gloves.

lots of papertowels and shop rags.

keep garbage can close by

 

[90FJ62]

be sure to keep one drain pan under the knuckle when you pull everything apart. another for all the messy parts.

if you ever wanted to invest in a cheap parts washer, now's the time.

lots of nitrile gloves.

lots of papertowels and shop rags.

keep garbage can close by

X2

If you think you have enough towels gloves and rags, go by more cause you dont. I also layed out tarps to set all my parts on so that I did not get my entire shop covered in greese.

Dave.

 

[IH8Wood]

Do one side at a time. Back the hub nuts off the studs until there's no exposed threads, then beat them silly with a hammer until the cone washers loosen up.

 

[RHON]

FSM=Factory Service Manual

If you don't have hardcopy you can download one from www.birfield.com.

Have fun.

Thanks , I do have a FSM, not specificaly for the axles , but the chassis and body FSM...........FSM can stand for many things in this world , won't get into it now but it's been in my mind all day----today was a "no brainer" day at work and I tend to drift at times.

 

[motoman426]

I just got done rebuilding mine today with the install of longfields. I dont know if you already have your install kit but I got mine from JT outfitters and it was complete and worked great.

 

[RHON]

I just got done rebuilding mine today with the install of longfields. I dont know if you already have your install kit but I got mine from JT outfitters and it was complete and worked great.

Yes I have one from SOR, I know I need lots of grease, the manual specifies moly-disulfide - lithium grease, I see moly-disulfide only, or just lithium grease( usualy white in color and not what I need at all)...what exactly type of grease did you use during youe rebuild?, . thanks.

 

[RHON]

Yes I have one from SOR, I know I need lots of grease, the manual specifies moly-disulfide - lithium grease, I see moly-disulfide only, or just lithium grease( usualy white in color and not what I need at all)...what exactly type of grease did you use during youe rebuild?, . thanks.

Oh, I have new disks to install while it's apart, did get those from Jtoutfitters along with some other goodies for another project for some other time.

 

[ranger883]

Be careful

Be careful when you get to the reinstallation of the freewheel body to the hub mount. The part where you use the cone washer/lock washer/nut on the new studs. The nuts in the kit (Front Axle Cone Kit) supplied from SOR are made of very soft metal. At the prescribed torque, three out of the six stripped the nuts threads clean. I just went to hardware store to find identical nuts in a harder metal compund and stainless to prevent rusting. What a pain. I was minutes from being done when I ran into that.

Shame on SOR, those kits are $5 a piece and you need 12 kits for the front end.

 

[RHON]

Be careful when you get to the reinstallation of the freewheel body to the hub mount. The part where you use the cone washer/lock washer/nut on the new studs. The nuts in the kit (Front Axle Cone Kit) supplied from SOR are made of very soft metal. At the prescribed torque, three out of the six stripped the nuts threads clean. I just went to hardware store to find identical nuts in a harder metal compund and stainless to prevent rusting. What a pain. I was minutes from being done when I ran into that.

Shame on SOR, those kits are $5 a piece and you need 12 kits for the front end.

duely noted, thanks for the heads-up, so, what type of grease, Just moly-disulfide ok?