PO's records say birfs were re-packed 46k miles ago. (174k, currently at 220k) Got slight clicking pulling into a parking spot this evening, which I've read is a telltale sign. Seems like it just started this evening out of nowhere. Searched the forums for a how-to, but I think the job is more than I could handle.
Any recommendations for shops in the COS area? I use Aspen Auto for my other vehicles but I'm not sure they do birfs.
I got nothing useful on mechanic shops. I hate for any stranger to touch my truck. Plenty of stories on Mud where pro shops have screwed up a birf job.
It's really not a hard job. Anyone can tackle it if they have the proper guidance. Just gotta have the time, tools, and parts... oh, and a warm place to do it.
I just did mine a few weeks ago. I'd be willing to help you out and can loan you some of the oddball tools needed, if you decide you want to do it yourself. I'm sure other club members would be willing to help you as well.
That is a nasty, nasty job that I never look forward to. The problem with shops is that they just pull it down, scoop out the grease, and throw new grease back in. They don't have time to inspect things or put any "love" into it. I say try to tackle it yourself. Set aside a weekend, maybe just do one side one weekend, then the other later. Get yourself a trashbag and a whole roll of blue shop towels, maybe two. I highly suggest the marlin inner axle seals, they also sell the knuckle ball seals.
If you're dead set o paying someone, don at bear automotive seems to get recommended a lot, I think he's on chelton loop. Or maybe redline? Not sure if they do that kind of work or not. I'd do it if I wasn't buried In a project right now.
Already did. I started the thread right after picking up my truck from getting an alarm installed. Turns out the dude who installed it is also a certified mechanic and we got to talking about wheeling. He's working on his Jeep's front axle and when I mentioned the clicking, he offered to show me how to rebuild/repack the birfs for a case of beer. Definitely going to send some business that guy's way.
Of course, after leaving the parking lot, driving to the gym, and driving home, I can't hear the clicking anymore. The truck is still very new-to-me so maybe I'm just hearing phantom sounds as I get used to driving a huge, lifted 80. This is my first real 4x4 rig and I'm still getting used to the noises. Regardless, it's great to meet folks willing to help and have a forum (internet friends, as my fiancé says) for support.
After googling multiple variations of "birf rebuild colorado springs" and not finding anything promising, asking you fellas would have been my next move. I would much rather be hands-on with this and learn by doing. That's part of the reason I wanted an 80 - to do it myself and not have to rely on the local shop.
I'm not sure how different the 80 knuckle is from the 40, but I did mine a few months ago and it was pretty straight forward. I used Coolermans rebuild page to help out (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14.htm) and just went step by step. If the knuckle etc is much different from the 40 it probably won't be much help. If its clicking pulling into a parking spot, does the front diff has an automatic locker in it? That is a common occurrence with those auto lockers. Just a thought...
I'm not sure how different the 80 knuckle is from the 40, but I did mine a few months ago and it was pretty straight forward. I used Coolermans rebuild page to help out (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14.htm) and just went step by step. If the knuckle etc is much different from the 40 it probably won't be much help. If its clicking pulling into a parking spot, does the front diff has an automatic locker in it? That is a common occurrence with those auto lockers. Just a thought...
It has the OEM e-locker, and as far as I can tell it's not clicking anymore, at least not this morning. I'm not sure of the 40-to-80 knuckle similarity, but I appreciate the input, nonetheless.
I will start on my front axle Satuday moning. You are welcome to get your hands dirty on my junk. I live in Divide. Garage is heated so that's not a problem.
The birfields and repack procedure on a 40 and 80 axle are very similar. I don't think the 40 has the PITA cone washers that the 80 does on the drive plate.
Also, if the birfield is clicking it means that it's worn and needs to be replaced. OEM ones are very pricey. There are some aftermarket options available. You can also get some more life out of them if you swap the left and right sides - which means separating the birf from the axle shaft. That isn't strictly necessary for a simple repack, and it's where I've had some difficulty on mine. To reproduce the clicking, turn the wheel hard to one side and accelerate hard, then try it again on the other side.
In any case - it's an intimidating job for a newbie. But it's mostly just very messy and time consuming. If you do it, following the many tutorials and such that are out there, it will be done right and for alot less money then you'll pay a shop.
Do you know if the trunnion bearings were replaced when the previous repack was done? In both the rebuilds I've done, the wheel bearings were servicable, but the trunnion bearings were shot.
Do you know if the trunnion bearings were replaced when the previous repack was done? In both the rebuilds I've done, the wheel bearings were servicable, but the trunnion bearings were shot.
The PO did suggest replacing the brass bushings in the front spindles and the steering knuckle hardware when I do a front axle and knuckle service. I'm new to all this so thanks in advance for bearing with me as I learn.
The PO did suggest replacing the brass bushings in the front spindles and the steering knuckle hardware when I do a front axle and knuckle service. I'm new to all this so thanks in advance for bearing with me as I learn.
Lol - all of this could be interpreted as "steering knuckle hardware".
I don't think the brass bushing on the spindle can be replaced - have to replace the entire spindle. Would be somewhat surprised if they're bad though. Some of this stuff you won't know until you get in there.
I would go through either cruiserdan or cruioseroutfitters.com for a kit. Don't think Dan can get you the Marlin axle seals. The cruiseroutfitters kit ([FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Part# FA9097) includes the trunnion bearings for $115. [SIZE=-1]If you can [SIZE=-1]afford to have the truck down for a few day[SIZE=-1]s, I'd tear into it an[SIZE=-1]d look at the wheel bearings rather then order them up front - they're probably OK.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
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Like I said, new to the game. Aren't you guys here mainly to answer newbie questions and talk about some guy named Chuck burying his rig in ridiculously deep snow?
Just put in an order with Cruiserdan for some random parts. I'll look into the kits you suggested, too.
Eric, I believe he is referring to the brass bushing that's inside the spindle. I've never had to replace one but I've heard it's a serviceable part.
Might also think about front brake rotors. They'll never be easier to replace than when the hub is all apart. If you replace rotors, just be sure to loosen the bolts on the rotor before you pull the drive flange. That will save you a half hour of cursing and throwing tools. It's hard to loosen those bolts once everything is apart.
For cone washers, I put a large brass rod on the tip of the stud and whack it about 4 times with a hammer. This will pop the cone washer out with no damage to the studs. Way too easy.
Thanks for the input, Brad. I had the rotors turned when I baselined the fluids. Brakes are solid and wobble free even during highway speed panic stops.
After putting 30 or so miles on it today, I don't think the sound I'm hearing is a birf. Rolling some turns in an uneven parking lot produced kind of a "clank" sound when the front end rolls over bumps. Got underneath the rig and I'm missing half of the front passenger side sway bar bushing. Ordered two new sets and we'll see if that stops the clank/click/whatever.
I turned the wheel to full lock both ways, drove in circles, and couldn't get an actual click out of her. I also have this slight grind/vibration noise coming through the front floorboard when coasting from highway speeds. Seems to be worse with overdrive on. The shop that baselined the truck said the only thing they'd replace is the rear drive shaft due to some vibration and it being unbalanced, but I'm not sure how that would create a sound/vibe in the front. Got a double cardan shaft on order from Slee and then I think I'll stop worrying.
Pretty sure I'm babying it too much, though. I find when I crank the tunes, drop the windows, and floor it... everything seems much better. Except the MPGs.
I used the Toyota seals from CDan, got them in the "kit". You can source them locally. I am not a Toyota parts only kind of guy but they generally have quality parts.
I used the toyota OEM parts on my 80 and the Marlin seals on the 40. FWIW, I thought the Marlin seals installed easier. 40 axles haven't been installed yet, 80 axles have about 50K on them since the reuild with no sign of leakage. I haven't seen the controversy over the Marlin parts.
