Best way to Remove Mill Scale? (1 Viewer)

[kulangot]

Hey Dan,

Spitznagel tool, crud thug, remove all tool, or my favorite the MBX Blaster:

http://www.amazon.com/Mbx-MBX-Blaster-Tool/dp/B000JVTN8U

I like the corder MBX as the pneumatic one uses a lot of air.

Run backwards to sharpen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwBOAMwZYV4

Made in Germany, no cheap but super effective.

I use this and a 36G paper disc. Don't bother with a rubber backing disc. Two discs on the grinder with out a shield, facing opposite directions. Flap disc is better for shaping, regular paper disc with super coarse grit is better for mill scale.

I also like my variable speed grinder with a regular stone. turn down the speed and use very light pressure. Too much pressure will burn up the armature with the grinder set to slow.

 

[kulangot]

budget version

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dent-Fix-Me...7?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item5d367fe509

 

[D'Animal]

That looks pretty narly and should do the trick.

 

[D'Animal]

I have done my own testing and have some results

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[firestopper]

I use cold rolled sheets for body parts...No mill scale

 

[Blue77FJ40]

You can also use the roloc discs that come in different sizes and grades. for example:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-302-1-to-4-disc-abrasives-roloc.aspx

 

[kulangot]

You can also use the roloc discs that come in different sizes and grades. for example:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-302-1-to-4-disc-abrasives-roloc.aspx

Dan,

Those work great for about a minute but then they clog.

I have a drawer with a complete assortment. Use them for all sorts of stuff, but not for mill scale. Trust me, I am a big fan - but for other stuff.

Because they are small, the limited surface area clogs really fast. That is why stationary belt sanders have super long belts - more media means it last longer and or takes longer to clog or gum up.

These are best for getting into a tight spot.

John

 

[kulangot]

Go here and see how it's different from a wire wheel by watching the video:

http://www.bristle-blaster.com/en/h...paration-technology-for-various-industries-en

Also important to not that wire wheels are typically not ideal for paint prep as they tend to polish the surface.

The process is more like sand blasting and is ideal for paint adhesion.

 

[D'Animal]

I was having issues uploading pictures via mobile using the wireless. I have several more pictures to upload.

The Pearl Greenback in the above picture cost more ($10 per wheel) than the rest but they outlast the other by about 4 times. They remove everything from mill scale to power coating.

The Blue Label Ovation plug the quickest.

The Red Label Ovation are a little better than the Blue Label but not much.

The Norton works extremely well but simply does not last that long.

The Yellow backed abco Extreme HD glazes over instantly.

The Dewalt does OK but is Hit and Miss. One wheel will last a long time and the next wheel will glaze over in a matter of minutes when grinding away rust.

I will post up more pictures when I get my mobile/wireless issue resolved.

 

[D'Animal]

A few better pictures.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[climber8483]

Dan,
My LWS guy a couple of months ago swapped me to the Pearl Fat Max's from the Norton's that I had been running. He also told me to swap from the Walter Zipwheel to the Pearl Redlines when I get low on my current stock. He told me the Pearl products are cheaper and last longer. I agree on the flap wheels lasting longer and they seem to take off material quicker. However the two zipdisks I took home I'm not sure about, they are cheaper, but seat of my pants I don't know if they last longer. It sounded like they might be phasing out the Walter line, so hopefully these will be as good.

I have never run the green backs, as I stick to the fiberboard backing so I can run them down to nothing for those hard to reach areas. I'll try some next time I buy a box.

Have you tried any of the Roark branded disks? They seem to sell them over on Pirate all the time and they are cheaper, just not sure how they do.


Brittain

 

[sggoat]

Mill scale was removed effectively in the utility industry using citric/hydrochloric acid(used in high pressure boilers) Citric works best when heated to ~180 deg F. The hydrochloric is prob not a good choice because of availability and safety concerns(I think the best mix is a 10-normal solution-heated to 150 deg F)
You could always use a full load of Coca-Cola--it has a pH of ~2, and will cut mill scale well.

 

[Teuf]

Elbow grease.......

 

[rustybucket]

Electrolosys bath will also work

Works great but give it a few hours or over night in a tub full of water and a battery charger. Put a sacrificial piece of metal in the water to act as the anode. I made the tub out pieces of pallets then lined it with a tarp. Stripped all the rust off my chrome wheels.

 

[69rambler]

Use HRPO (hot roll pickled and oiled). It isn't expensive, it doesn't warp to hell like cold rolled and it's kind of an industry standard for this sort of thing.

 

[rustybucket]

here is a link on how to derust with electricity.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

16 GA hot roll or cold roll steel? What about the Metal Prep/ready stuff (from the POR15 people) or something like it? Before you do too much extra work you might be better off buying good cold roll.

x2


Cold sheet has oil and not mill scale..

Body panels, preferred metal for body guys is satin coat, pre primed weld through coating...

I worked in ship drive building in Vancouver for a few years, boys used basic grinding discs..

Most of our pre cut plate went out for shot blasting to remove mill scale..

Rob

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

x2


Cold sheet has oil and not mill scale..

Body panels, preferred metal for body guys is satin coat, pre primed weld through coating...

I worked in ship drive building in Vancouver for a few years, boys used basic grinding discs..

Most of our pre cut plate went out for shot blasting to remove mill scale..

Use HRPO (hot roll pickled and oiled). It isn't expensive, it doesn't warp to hell like cold rolled and it's kind of an industry standard for this sort of thing.

I sell steel and in these parts and it is a custom order off the roll, so minimum purchase is required for us to buy it.. Never heard of it until a guy came in to build vintage hot rod frames and specified this material..