Best way to remove factory clear rock film (1 Viewer)

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Any videos on how to remove the clear rock protection film off my hood . Or can anyone tell me how ?

thanks in advance
 
Patients and a heat gun. I had a bunch of 3M factory crap on my wife’s ‘12 Avalon I had to remove last winter and it was a PIA. Warmer weather should help and get some 3M automotive adhesive remover for final step.
 
Thank you mine is turning yellow and has a lot of checkering in it … make the car look very bad imo.. any tools or just used your fingers to lift it after heating it up ?
 

you need one of these, a bottle of goo gone and micro fibers. Us a low speed, heavy torque setting on your drill and work slowly and from the edge. It’s tedious but does not damage your paint. The a proper 2 stage correction and your better than new.

I had a 10 year old bra on my cruiser. This was the only method that worked. If you have door edge film on start there and practice. There is a technique to it. ( just don’t let the wheel get hot, you will burn your paint.

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you need one of these, a bottle of goo gone and micro fibers. Us a low speed, heavy torque setting on your drill and work slowly and from the edge. It’s tedious but does not damage your paint. The a proper 2 stage correction and your better than new.

I had a 10 year old bra on my cruiser. This was the only method that worked. If you have door edge film on start there and practice. There is a technique to it. ( just don’t let the wheel get hot, you will burn your paint.

View attachment 2769405

View attachment 2769406
The wheel takes the top layer of film off and the goo-gone will take all the adhesive off.
 
Thanks agin for everyone’s help
 
Guy wanted to charge me 250 to take it off .. so ima try to do it myself.. it’s the Lexus one an now makes the whole car look s***ty
 
Just a thought - On YouTub I saw a detailer use towels which he poured hot water over (from his coffee pot so must around 180 degr F) and then placed it over the protective film. It apparently comes of easier once heated up significantly. Still that way seemed saver to me then a heat gun. Not sure though when it is cracked up as shown in the pictures that works for all areas.
 
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Does the the 3M Eraser Wheel not help with this?
 
Before heat guns and eraser wheels just try leaving it in direct sunlight for a few hours and peeling it off
 
Just a thought - On YouTub I saw a detailer use towels which he poured hot water over (from his coffee pot so must around 180 degr F) and then placed it over the protective film. It apparently comes of easier once heated up significantly. Still that way seemed saver to me then a heat gun. Not sure though when it is cracked up as shown in the pictures that works for all areas.
The guy who owns AMMO detailing products did the same thing. Hot water.
 
I would NOT use a 3M adhesive wheel for removing old clear bra.

I have experience here removing 20+ year old clear bra off of GWagen fender flares. The best way is with steam, so I personally would take it to a tint shop to have them remove with steam. The 3M eraser wheel may burn through your paint in small spots....

If you really want to do it yourself, I've had better luck with a heat gun, wood paint stirrers to gently scrape it off, and then an old t shirt to remove after you've gotten it hot enough. The steam is likely a lot safer for your paint, but I don't have a steam machine.

The less "checked" the clear bra, the easier it is to take off in larger pieces with heat.
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This is a two day project by itself. But this is really bad.
 
I would NOT use a 3M adhesive wheel for removing old clear bra.

I have experience here removing 20+ year old clear bra off of GWagen fender flares. The best way is with steam, so I personally would take it to a tint shop to have them remove with steam. The 3M eraser wheel may burn through your paint in small spots....

If you really want to do it yourself, I've had better luck with a heat gun, wood paint stirrers to gently scrape it off, and then an old t shirt to remove after you've gotten it hot enough. The steam is likely a lot safer for your paint, but I don't have a steam machine.

The less "checked" the clear bra, the easier it is to take off in larger pieces with heat.View attachment 2771176
This is a two day project by itself. But this is really bad.
That is what my entire front looked like. Cracked, incredibly brittle and tinted brown. We tried steam, boiled hot towels draped on, heat guns, driving the truck to heat the hood etc. I would have been there for weeks and missing all my fingernails by the end using any of those methods. I really think it depends on what shape the product is in. At the end of the day, using a chilled rubber decal wheel, outside, in the middle of winter did the trick. You have to be work from the edge inward and used a very slow speed on your drill. Allowing the wheel to do the work with little to no added pressure. Having two wheels to use and alternating between the two is best. Also having the wheel that is not being used resting in ice water helps immensly with confidence.

All said and done, I was finished in two-three hours with zero damage to any paint. You have the same chances of burning your paint improperly using a heat gun than you do improperly using a rubber wheel.

To remove the adhesive, I used spray googone with great results, but Im sure there are tons of other products/chemicals that would do the trick.
 
Depends on how old it as. There's lots of good advice that I agree with here. However, mine was three months old and I patiently peeled it off by hand around 5pm after parked in direct sunlight. I used a cleaner wax to remove the little bit of residue left after.
 

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