i want to know what you think is the best setup to use on link suspension and why? I am using 2.5 inch fox air shocks. but i want to hear the pros and cons of each setup in poll.
best thing to use with link suspension (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dacicci
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ok, here is why i like air shocks. great performance, tuneable, and priced much better than a coilover. A set of air shocks will cost you 1300 were as a set of coilovers can cost double that. I guess the only downfall is the gangster lean when you take corners. You can solve that problem with a sway away torsion bar. With a coilover you can spend some jack trying to get the right spring rate for your rig. With a airshock you just put air in or let air out that is great. Plus it is easy to adjust on the trail.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
With some shopping around, I'm at $1600 for a set of 4 14" SAW coilovers, QA1 springs, and tender setups. The vendor section on P4x4 is your friend.
Since you're talking about the ease of tuning an airshock, you should include the cost of a Nitrogen filling setup and shock oil, since you'll be messing with both.
Adjust on the trail? what are you going to do.. bring the N2 tank?
Here's why i voted coilovers - the spring rate curve is better - more linear, and you can pick where it ramps up by adjusting the stop ring.
If the shock fails (not likely, but), you still are at ride height on CO's.
Even in an emulsion CO, there's more fluid & N2, meaning less fade and temp rise.. and temp rise won't make your ride height go up...
On a really light rig, air shocks are fine, but on something like mine with 3200 lbs sprung (with me & the wife in it), the $300-400 price difference isn't worth the drawbacks to me.
Yes, you can spend $$ getting the spring rates right. no arguing there, but there are a bunch of used coils up for sale, which can help. If you buy from Poly, you can exchange them, but you will spend $264 more for the springs.
Since you're talking about the ease of tuning an airshock, you should include the cost of a Nitrogen filling setup and shock oil, since you'll be messing with both.
Adjust on the trail? what are you going to do.. bring the N2 tank?
Here's why i voted coilovers - the spring rate curve is better - more linear, and you can pick where it ramps up by adjusting the stop ring.
If the shock fails (not likely, but), you still are at ride height on CO's.
Even in an emulsion CO, there's more fluid & N2, meaning less fade and temp rise.. and temp rise won't make your ride height go up...
On a really light rig, air shocks are fine, but on something like mine with 3200 lbs sprung (with me & the wife in it), the $300-400 price difference isn't worth the drawbacks to me.
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
I chose coil springs due to my budget & the fact I've already done a link suspension so I know how to set it up. Less bracketry & generally more flex with coilovers/ airshocks though. I would never do a quarter elliptical because of the unloading factor going down hills. So, if it's in your budget, I'd go coilovers.......
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
Unless you have limit straps, your backend will raise up. Since coils can be retained top & bottom there's no use for one. Also, limit strap length is crutial (if you set yours' up for max droop) when the leafs unload which *may exceed the pucker factor too.
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you can get kings for that price and! they will trade your springs out with you till you get exactly what you want
No, it is more a balance between suspension characteristics than spring design.
All a spring does is provide resistance. Coil or leaf does not matter.
I will agree that a coil or 1/4 eliptical is harder on the shocks unless a limit strap is used. But the spring type does not have anything to do with unloading.. (air shocks are a bit different and can do odd things tho...)
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Coil over shocks are the way to go if you set the coils up right
- Thread starter
- #11
With some shopping around, I'm at $1600 for a set of 4 14" SAW coilovers, QA1 springs, and tender setups. The vendor section on P4x4 is your friend.
Yes, you can spend $$ getting the spring rates right. no arguing there, but there are a bunch of used coils up for sale, which can help. If you buy from Poly, you can exchange them, but you will spend $264 more for the springs.
Since you're talking about the ease of tuning an airshock, you should include the cost of a Nitrogen filling setup and shock oil, since you'll be messing with both.
Adjust on the trail? what are you going to do.. bring the N2 tank?
Here's why i voted coilovers - the spring rate curve is better - more linear, and you can pick where it ramps up by adjusting the stop ring.
If the shock fails (not likely, but), you still are at ride height on CO's.
Even in an emulsion CO, there's more fluid & N2, meaning less fade and temp rise.. and temp rise won't make your ride height go up...
On a really light rig, air shocks are fine, but on something like mine with 3200 lbs sprung (with me & the wife in it), the $300-400 price difference isn't worth the drawbacks to me.
many companys sell a kit that has a case for a n2 bottle. of course you can make your own for a hell of a lot less. but very doable on the trail considering the huge co2 bottles i have seen people lug around for tire inflation. most people with air shocks once set up rarely adjust them so do not waste your money on the expensive kit just make your own. but adjusting an air shock is pretty easy.
great to hear what people think the pros and cons of each suspension setup are. all 4 types serve the purpose but all 4 have their own pros and cons. i always thought 1/4 eliptic was the most bang 4 your buck. coils also being cheap but have alot of downfalls. airshock all thow expensive are pretty easy to use and very reliable. i think coilovers are probably the strongest setup and i guess not as expensive as i thought. oopps oh well airshocks are already doing the job.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Not that I've found, but do tell... make sure it's the coilover, triple rate hardware, 2 coils, and a tender, for $400, shipped.
The closest I found was $430 shipped, but that was dual rate only. triple rate tender and slider add another $35.
I'm all about a hookup though... what do ya know?
Not that I've found, but do tell... make sure it's the coilover, triple rate hardware, 2 coils, and a tender, for $400, shipped.
The closest I found was $430 shipped, but that was dual rate only. triple rate tender and slider add another $35.
I'm all about a hookup though... what do ya know?
did you try king directly. thats usualy the cheapest source
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I vote 1/4 elipt.... But Im biased.... Reason I went with it on my '40 was to keep the full rear body on my cruiser without the bouncy-ness of a coil spring..... Coilovers would mean loosing interior space and higher COG due to additional tube and such to mount... (IMO)
1/4elipt keeps all the weight of the spring below the bottom of the frame on mine.. Much like a stock leaf setup... Only better travel..
Cost is another factor... 1/4ellipt can be done cheaper than coilovers if you shop.... Rear superduty springs can be had for zero to a couple beers, for the cost of spring tenders and springs on a coilover you can buy all the link material and rod ends/bushings/RE joints/whatever....
Tuning a leaf setup is easy as well.... Adding, removing, tapering, spacing etc is fast and uncomplicated...
As far as unloading on downhill decents, I do have limit straps to keep the shock from over-extending but I dont notice any excessive "tipping" or "unloading" of my rear suspension.... (and Im certainly not afraid to drive it off some stupid stuff)
That being said, the wifes buggy will be coilover simply because I want to try them and her buggy will be built from the ground up with them in the plan.... This way I can control packaging...
Chris
1/4elipt keeps all the weight of the spring below the bottom of the frame on mine.. Much like a stock leaf setup... Only better travel..
Cost is another factor... 1/4ellipt can be done cheaper than coilovers if you shop.... Rear superduty springs can be had for zero to a couple beers, for the cost of spring tenders and springs on a coilover you can buy all the link material and rod ends/bushings/RE joints/whatever....
Tuning a leaf setup is easy as well.... Adding, removing, tapering, spacing etc is fast and uncomplicated...
As far as unloading on downhill decents, I do have limit straps to keep the shock from over-extending but I dont notice any excessive "tipping" or "unloading" of my rear suspension.... (and Im certainly not afraid to drive it off some stupid stuff)
That being said, the wifes buggy will be coilover simply because I want to try them and her buggy will be built from the ground up with them in the plan.... This way I can control packaging...
Chris
