best spots to rust proof on a 45 ute?

[khany454]

gday fellas, coming up time to paint my 45 tray top.
just wondering whats your opinions on where the best/critical spots are to rustproof and how do you guys do it (particulary those hard to get at places) and what you find is the best products to use before we lay the paint on! (the cab im meaning too, not the tray)

will post some pics when its done just to make you fellas jelous!
and before any diehards start getting upset yes it is getting modded up! but i am an aussie and theres s***loads of them over here so i can do it without "putting a strain on resources"

thanks fellas!!!!!!!!

 

[SteveH]

Surely the removable top and the rear cab corners would be high on the list. I use grease and oil for rustproofing, and don't apply anything before painting. If you use a pump-oiler, and shoot 90wt gear oil into all the cracks and crevices (basically any welded seam) after painting, you'll have a good start. Do the doors, too. Shut the doors on newspaper to soak up what drips out. I also shoot the doors full of aerosol white lithium grease. It's like rustproofing in a can. After you drive on a few dusty roads, the dust will settle in the grease, and should prevent rust for a long time. If you drive on salty beaches, there may be no hope, however.

 

[khany454]

thanks mate, never thought of using grease or oil! sound like the goods.
im gunna spray under the guards & places like that with this stuff in a can we have here, its like a spray on rubber type thing for rustproofing. no doubt you guys have it over there but i cant remember what its called off the top of my head???
anyway... so i do the rust proofing after paint?
also can i get a primer type thing thats a rust proofer? that way spray it on then lay the paint on that?
every panel is gunna be painted piece by piece and pulled apart so the job will be thorough.
a friend of mine is gunna do the painting for me (hes a tradesman) so will be done right... just after the best solutions really

 

[Henry James the 47th]

One spot to take a very close look at is the seam along the valance, where it meets the windshield frame support - inside and out. when the seam sealer gives out, that area starts to rust pretty quick, and you won't notice it for a long time. You need to pull the heater out and get in there on your back with a flashlight to inspect the underside of the valance thoroughly.

I'd dig the old sealer out, treat it with brush-on rust-converting chemical and then put on some new seam sealer (use a two part) before repainting.