Best bang-for-the-buck carb rebuild kit?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 28, 2010
Threads
79
Messages
970
Location
Vashon, WA, USA
So, I'm probably going to be rebuilding a factory carb in my near future, and I'm wondering what the current consensus is on rebuild kits. I did some searches, but a lot of the threads are so old that half of the kits people are talking about aren't even in production any more.

So, which kits are the best, which are almost as good (but way cheaper?), and where can I order them? Are the ones Kurt sells for $27.50 comparable to an OEM kit?
 
Kyster kits come with extra jets, if you need them. Hygrade kits come with the vacuum secondary diaphragm. You might need both to cover everything.
 
I just ordered and received the Hygrade carburetor repair kit (791BS) for my '81 FJ60. I went with that one because Pinhead mentioned it on his online tutorials for rebuilding the Aisan carb. It does include a diaphragm from the secondary, which from what I understand, is not always included in other kits?
I can't recommend to choose the Hygrade or any other because I have no experience with any of them. Haven't done the rebuild yet; am finishing up making sure all the emissions parts are working correctly first. Once that's done, am trying to decide whether or not to do the carb rebuild or all the gaskets on the intake/exhaust manifold assembly, egr and exhaust pipes.
I'm in the same boat your are; kinda interested to see what others recommend to you on this thread.
 
It was my understanding that the 2ndry diaphragm with the hygrade kit was not for the 60 series carb, but the 40 series carb. The jet sizes in the Keyster kits are not stock USA sizes.

Really, to get the best avail parts, you need to order both kits. Kurt at cruiseroutfitters.com sells the keyster, Japan. Hygrade, rock auto. If I were only to order one, I'd prolly get the Keyster, Japan as is has metal ring gaskets, instead of fiber ones. Don't remember what's in the hygrade.
 
Spike, how does installing the Keyster jets, since they are a different size than the stock USA ones I currently have in there (presumably they are stock USA because as far as I know the carb has not yet been rebuilt), affect the performance of the carb after rebuild? Any tricks on adjusting the carb during or after assembly to make sure it works correctly or compensates for the difference?
Is it an improvement putting the Keyster jets in or is it preferable to try and reuse the stock USA?

thx.
 
Thanks, guys. I already have about 3/4 of a Keyster kit laying around (basically all the small parts, but not the big upper gasket), so I'll just get a Hygrade kit and use the metal ring gaskets from the Keyster kit.
 
To follow up on the Hygrade 791B Kit.
Just got done rebuilding (thanks to following online videos produced and posted by Pinhead on YouTube!!) my 12/1981 FJ60 (carb #21100-61141) using this kit.

Useful parts this kit DOES contain for my year/model carb:
new needle valve (seat (but no screen), valve, spring and plunger)
gasket between the airhorn and bowl,
power valve,
o-ring for idle fuel cut solenoid,
check valves for accelerator pump inlet and return (big and small check valves),
accelerator pump plunger, primary and secondary venturi gaskets,
primary and secondary main jet gaskets (fiber),
gasket c-clip and washer for secondary diaphragm,
gaskets between insulator and fuel bowl and insulator and bottom plate,
and several hairpins for choke and throttle linkages.

Does NOT contain for my year/model carb:
float or float pin,
screen for the needle valve,
2nd diaphragm for this model,
choke diaphragm,
A/C idle up diaphragm,
accelerator pump piston and springs (for inlet and outlet),
idle fuel cut solenoid,
retaining clip for accelerator pump check valve,
primary nor secondary air correction jet (slow jets),
neither primary nor secondary venturi,
neither primary nor secondary main jets,
new insulator,
or idle mixture screw.

I ended up using the two gaskets between the insulator and base plate and insulator and bowl, even though when I took the carb apart, there were no gaskets there. Apparently the gaskets were originally bonded on the insulator. I figured with the age of the insulator, it might not be a bad idea to use them. Don't have a leak after installing, running and tuning the carb.

Two close calls (almost show stoppers) were removing the secondary main jet and the screw underneath the base plate that holds the base plate to the insulator and bowl. Almost stripping the heads using a screw driver, I ended up pulling out the Milwaukee M18 1/4 impact driver with a single slot screw driver tip (Black and Decker), but the tip broke (cheap Chinese steel), so went to Home Depot to find a 1/4" single slot driver made from higher quality steel. Ended up get a Milwaukee 10in1 square multi-bit driver ($7.95 part#48-22-2102). Backed both of them out with no problems! Catastrophe avoided!
Carb is purring like a kitten now. Still waiting to mount the 2nd diaphragm (on order from NAPA), so still running on a single barrel - not full power. The secondary diaphragm in the kit has a straight actuator arm. My make/model has a bend in the arm at the tip that connects to the linkage on the carb...
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have any idea what a Hygrade 791A kit would be used for? I have an old 791A kit that was given to me by a guy who no longer had his FJ60. The instructions inside say that this kit is for my truck, but you mention the 791B. Does anyone know the difference between the A and B?




Zack
 
Best kit in my opinion is a Trollhole carb! Easiest one you'll ever install! :D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom