BBCNN Run: Rubicon 8-15-08 (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

What exactly do you mean when you say housing?

Dan-The "differential", technically, is the center part with all the little geary bits in it, and that spins in the housing. The "housing" in contrast, is the heavy iron thing that holds everything. The complete assembly is the "3rd member".( Not your favorite part of your anatomy like you thought ) I hope that helps, but I think you knew that already.

I believe the pinion is maked with a check depth (a shim size) and that gets you very close for pinion depth on an initial install. I totally agree that letting Sean do it for you will be best in the end. I'll be up in Reno in 5 weeks or so, and can haul down the parts if desired.

 

[locrwln1]

Dan-The "differential", technically, is the center part with all the little geary bits in it, and that spins in the housing. The "housing" in contrast, is the heavy iron thing that holds everything. The complete assembly is the "3rd member".( Not your favorite part of your anatomy like you thought ) I hope that helps, but I think you knew that already.

I believe the pinion is maked with a check depth (a shim size) and that gets you very close for pinion depth on an initial install. I totally agree that letting Sean do it for you will be best in the end. I'll be up in Reno in 5 weeks or so, and can haul down the parts if desired.

What he said.

The number(s) written on the pinion head are for using one of those spiffy pinion depth guages, that lets you know where the gear cutter wants it. You basically add or subtract shims until the guage matches the number on the pinion head. The guage works by mounting in the carrier bearing portion of the diff (uses slugs to mimic the bearings) then you measure from the center line of the bearing/axle shaft to the pinion head and adjust as neccessary. Orrrr you just take it apart and put it together adding and subtracting shims until the pattern is where it needs to be. Which can be a lot of taking apart and putting it back together, also you need a "dummy" bearing so that you can take it apart and put together until you find the right shims. Once you find the right pinion depth, then you press on the new bearing, that hopefully you had heating up in the oven...

And then you continue with the install, so unless you have a day or two or twelve to devote to it, I say pay the man. Trust me.

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

Back to the story.

More later.....

After we got the c-clips out things started moving again. For some reason I threw in my 3/8" air ratchet when I was going through my trail tool box. I'm really glad I did. It made fast work of the seemingly endless bolts and nuts. I think we were all amazed at how long the CO2 lasted and still had enough left to fill my tires the next day.
At any rate we got the rear third member out, thanks Keith. (BTW Keith is a handy guy to have around when you need to pull and install third members. )
The front was already out so the rear end went back together pretty quick. The broken third member was installed in the front axle to plug the hole.

Then it was time to get back to pavement......

 

[rusty_tlc]

Dan-The "differential", technically, is the center part with all the little geary bits in it, and that spins in the housing. The "housing" in contrast, is the heavy iron thing that holds everything. The complete assembly is the "3rd member".( Not your favorite part of your anatomy like you thought ) I hope that helps, but I think you knew that already.

I believe the pinion is maked with a check depth (a shim size) and that gets you very close for pinion depth on an initial install. I totally agree that letting Sean do it for you will be best in the end. I'll be up in Reno in 5 weeks or so, and can haul down the parts if desired.

That was my understanding.
This was what confused me.

The only other reason I would be hesitant to try and set up your rear third is that without the gearset going back into the original housing....
Jack

We didn't actually pull the differentials, just swapped the whole thirds. So the same differential gears are going back in the same housing when the ring and pinion gears are replaced.

As it turns out this really cool guy is cutting me such a great deal on a set of gears that having a pro do the work may be in the cards.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Back to the story

....Then it was time to get back to pavement......

The plan was to drive out in 2WD and winch over anything that even looked like it would cause wheel hop.
After trying a very small ledge and getting a panic call from Keith to halt all progress I never tried anything at all. Shawn and the 8274 got one hell of a work out dragging the winch cable out and spooling it back in all the way out to the dam.

On some of the tougher sections I'm sure my brain was working so hard that smoke was boiling out my ears.

Pick a line, steer through it, control the gas and clutch, run the winch, watch the line, easy on the drive train,

I was about drained by the time we got out.
As was posted earlier we got lucky and didn't have to go any further than the campground that day.
Without a doubt the beer was the best ever and the swim was close behind it. And I was really glad I had a nice ribeye steak in the cooler.

 

[flexing40]

I got on a ledge and used a little to much gas, something popped so i stopped and looked under the rig. Because of the way the bar broke i really didn't see the break so I got back in and tried again, by this time Shawn and Keith were pretty far ahead of me so i was wanting to catch up. I cleared the ledge with no issue and started on up the trail, I hit the next set of ledges a little fast and the rear end hopped, POW! @#$^#@^^@! The front wheels were turning and the rear were stock still. Looking under the rig you could see the rear drive line hanging free. The pinion gear was sheared off.

Was those ledges the ones going up the far side of the granite bowl? Right there by the tree and the big rock? see pic.

 

[locrwln1]

We didn't actually pull the differentials, just swapped the whole thirds. So the same differential gears are going back in the same housing when the ring and pinion gears are replaced.

Actually, you broke your gears, so they are not going back into the differential housing. What I was referring to was the gears that were in my differential housing are going to be put into a different (yours) differential housing.

When re-gearing your diffs, the trick is to measure the stock pinion depth shims and do an install with the original shim. Sometimes that works out and you don't have to use any others or try other thicknesses to get the gears "set up." Even if they don't set up, it does give you a starting point, so you know to go thicker or thinner to get it where you need it. So without that known thickness, you will shooting in the dark so to speak.

Now, the stock pinion shim from your gear set may get the gear guy in the ball park with my old gears. See, clear as mud...

Jack

 

[locrwln1]

The plan was to drive out in 2WD and winch over anything that even looked like it would cause wheel hop.
After trying a very small ledge and getting a panic call from Keith to halt all progress I never tried anything at all. Shawn and the 8274 got one hell of a work out dragging the winch cable out and spooling it back in all the way out to the dam.

On some of the tougher sections I'm sure my brain was working so hard that smoke was boiling out my ears.

Pick a line, steer through it, control the gas and clutch, run the winch, watch the line, easy on the drive train,

I was about drained by the time we got out.
As was posted earlier we got lucky and didn't have to go any further than the campground that day.
Without a doubt the beer was the best ever and the swim was close behind it. And I was really glad I had a nice ribeye steak in the cooler.

Well at least it will be a trip that you will remember for a long time...

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

Actually, you broke your gears, so they are not going back into the differential housing. What I was referring to was the gears that were in my differential housing are going to be put into a different (yours) differential housing.

When re-gearing your diffs, the trick is to measure the stock pinion depth shims and do an install with the original shim. Sometimes that works out and you don't have to use any others or try other thicknesses to get the gears "set up." Even if they don't set up, it does give you a starting point, so you know to go thicker or thinner to get it where you need it. So without that known thickness, you will shooting in the dark so to speak.

Now, the stock pinion shim from your gear set may get the gear guy in the ball park with my old gears. See, clear as mud...

Jack

I understand better know., thanks Jack. Slowly I am becoming schooled in the ways of the differential.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Was those ledges the ones going up the far side of the granite bowl? Right there by the tree and the big rock? see pic.

I think we were working on my rig just about where the white pick-up is parked in that picture. So I broke the track bar about where the arrow points and broke the diff on the ledge in the foreground.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Well at least it will be a trip that you will remember for a long time...

Jack

Kind of like your Fordyce trip with Alia.

 

[chicago]

After we got the c-clips out things started moving again. For some reason I threw in my 3/8" air ratchet when I was going through my trail tool box. I'm really glad I did. It made fast work of the seemingly endless bolts and nuts. I think we were all amazed at how long the CO2 lasted and still had enough left to fill my tires the next day.
At any rate we got the rear third member out, thanks Keith. (BTW Keith is a handy guy to have around when you need to pull and install third members. )
The front was already out so the rear end went back together pretty quick. The broken third member was installed in the front axle to plug the hole.

Then it was time to get back to pavement......

Yeah...I may not be good for much, but I can CERTAINLY move heavy objects! I guess you gotta have a niche in life somewhere!;p

K

 

[rusty_tlc]

Yeah...I may not be good for much, but I can CERTAINLY move heavy objects! I guess you gotta have a niche in life somewhere!;p

K

I count on you to have a bandaid for my owwies too.

 

[jon@svwbarchitects.c]

Dan you need to widen your track anyway, so time to put the 60 or 80 axle under the rear. I'll make you a good deal on a 80 rear. Glad you all got back and had some fun.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Dan you need to widen your track anyway, so time to put the 60 or 80 axle under the rear. I'll make you a good deal on a 80 rear. Glad you all got back and had some fun.

I agree with this, except for the 80 series part. It's a great time to put a 60 axle back there and some 62 springs, which will be less likely to wrap. 80 axles are nice, but a little wide for a 40. You have a great weldor in Kieth up there, and getting a rear 60 axle in there is almost trivially easy.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Dan you need to widen your track anyway, so time to put the 60 or 80 axle under the rear. I'll make you a good deal on a 80 rear. Glad you all got back and had some fun.

Good to see you post here John.
I'd be happy just to get moving at this point.

I agree with this, except for the 80 series part. It's a great time to put a 60 axle back there and some 62 springs, which will be less likely to wrap. 80 axles are nice, but a little wide for a 40. You have a great weldor in Kieth up there, and getting a rear 60 axle in there is almost trivially easy.

What is the difference between the 60 and the 62 springs?
I have a set of 60 springs and most of the stuff to fit them to the 40.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

What is the difference between the 60 and the 62 springs?
I have a set of 60 springs and most of the stuff to fit them to the 40.

The 62 springs have an extra leaf and are newer. I added an extra long leaf under the military wrap leaf even under my FJ40. It may make it more bouncy, but it doesn't sag with a full load. Also less likely to wrap, so the anti-wrap bar doesn't have as much stress on it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I started pricing out stuff today. This is all deferred maintenance stuff that needed attention anyway.;

• Marlin Knuckle service kit - $85
• Marlin Special HD inner front seals 2X$7.49 = $15.98
• Marlin Rear Axel service kit - $149
• Longfield Chromoly hub gears 2X$65 = $130

Sub total $380

Now for the other stuff;

• Fine spline Flange from High Angle $38
• Bearings races and seals for the pinion Fletcher Jones LV toyota ~$180
• Labor ?????
• PITA ARB pin ????
• Anti wrap material

Sub Total ???????

What else do I need to get rolling again?

 

[locrwln1]

Sounds like everything.

Jack

 

[chicago]

I started pricing out stuff today. This is all deferred maintenance stuff that needed attention anyway.;

• Marlin Knuckle service kit - $85
• Marlin Special HD inner front seals 2X$7.49 = $15.98
• Marlin Rear Axel service kit - $149
• Longfield Chromoly hub gears 2X$65 = $130

Sub total $380


Now for the other stuff;

• Fine spline Flange from High Angle $38
• Bearings races and seals for the pinion Fletcher Jones LV toyota ~$180
• Labor ?????

Sub Total ???????

What else do I need to get rolling again?

How much for the ring and pinion?
Did you get a new PITA pin for the ARB?
Dont forget some 1/4 in tube and components for the traction bar...Id personally go to metal masters for that...Sam is quite pricy these days with just about everything including steel.
Are you gonna do the 60 housing/ third NOW, or wait till later?
One more thing...MAKE SURE that Marlin has the knuckle rebuild kit IN STOCK...I waited for 3 weeks, and they still didnt have them. I had to find a different resource for mine.

BTW, Ive been meaning to ask...how'd the wife take the news?!
Are you currently sleeping in the 100?

K