Basic Info on a Front Solid Axle Swap (1986-95.)

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Hi All:

"Newbie" here in the TruckTech section - I usually spend my time in the 40/55 Section (and "Chat!" :D )

Was wondering what is involved in doing a stock-height (or slight lift) front solid axle swap on an IFS rig (1986-95.) I would be doing the swap at home with the assistance of some buddies that are skilled at welding & fabbing.

Anyone can direct me to any good 'web sources of info on this subject?

Thanks!

Alan
 
solid axle swap re

Alright whats up bro
Somthing I can help with. A solid axle swap is a little in depth but not to bad. The first thing is to get all your parts you can get a lot of the stuff from allprooffroad.com. You are gona need a spring hanger, jigs, an axle leaf springs posibly shock hoops. I know I'm forgeting things but if you get on allpro there is a full set of instructions on the site for the whole swap
Keep me up to date on how things go
 
Ya you will have to get all your parts allpro or marlin crawlers the way to go. Go check out www.allprooffroad.com and check out the solid axle swap link and there is in depth step by step instructions on how to do it. Be ready for a couple k of parts to buy, but soo worth it! I think the allpro kit may even be on sale right now. good luck!
 
SAS kits are pretty routine. Marlin and All Pro have been mentioned, Trail Gear is another. All 3 support this board.

Here's my write up: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=95343&highlight=sas

If was doing it again I would cut the bottom part of the frame rail that boxes the front cross member so the spring hanger would sit flush against the cross member. That way there wouldn't be a gap between the cross member and the frame rail. I would probably also add a 2" receiver tube in the middle of the spring hanger.

Be sure to spend the time to get the frame tubes that hold the shackles even and level. One of mine is crooked and I should probably redo it, though it drives and flexes fine.
 
Hi All:

Thanks guys for the responses! This is the info I needed. :beer:

Regards,

Alan
 
With an SAS you have to at least have 3 inch springs + 1inch drop hanger to run high steer. So minimum lift is goign to be 3 or 4 inches. If you want to go lower you can use a 2wd truck because they have a higher arch in the frame over the axle area so you don't need as much lift. I saw you mentioned "stock height or little lift" which I see as 0-2" of lift so I thought I would let you know the issues involved with keeping it that low.
 
Hi All:

Thanks again for all the responses! :beer:

Let me re-phrase my question a bit: what if one owned a 1986-95 Toyota mini-truck or 4Runner with IFS ("A" arms and torsion bars) that was suffering from a damaged front suspension. What if one really liked the simple and strong live front axle, leaf spring combo. What would be involved in replacing the damaged IFS with a close to stock-height live axle/leaf spring swap?

Is this too much trouble?

Thanks!

Alan
 
Alan...

First, I can vouch for Poser and his capabilities - he's one of the few people I'll ever let work on my junk.

Second, it is difficult to do a stock height SAS, but not impossible at all.

Third, point #2 assumes a few things, though, that you may not be interested in.

A low-lift SAS kit does not currently exist on the market, so you'll have to put one together yourself. Start out with a front spring hanger kit from Front Range Off-Road (www.frontrangeoffroadfab). This kit provides 1" less drop (lift) than the other kits mentioned. It's very well made and I run it on my own vehicle.

From there, you'll have to make a decision on springs. Again, to keep it low, you'll want to go with stock-lenght springs. This means you'll mount the FRORF front hanger in the "stock" (as opposed to 1" forward) position. The springs I would recommend are 2" Old Man Emu springs from ARB. These are the lowest lift springs available for the solid axle Toyota. Two other options include SkyJacker 3" soft rides (VERY good springs) and Downey Off-Road 3" front springs (also nice, but have a tendency to sag).

Shock hoops can be ordered from anyone, really. But you'll need to pick out your shocks AFTER you have everything done - again, you're putting this together as you go, so you'll need to be cautious.

Steering is where things get complicated. Now, it is 100% possible to do a ZERO lift SAS, but you'll have to give up cross-over steering and go back to Toyota's push-pull steering model. I wouldn't recommend that - too many complications, including the torque rod mounting.

To alleviate that and make cross-over work takes time and planning, but again, it can be done. First, you'll need to get a flat or near flat pitman arm from Sky Manufacturing. Second, you'll need to re-mount your steering box UP and FORWARD as far as possible. You'll also want to consider notching the frame for the tie-rod bolt on the pitman arm to give yourself more room. This is not a big deal, but will be helpful. Also, consider going with standard cross-over instead of hi-steer. This will provide you much more room for your steering with less worries of the tie-rod hitting the frame or oil pan.

You'll then need to install bumpstops in the correct position to allow you just a bit of up travel and prevent your steering from getting into the frame.
Finally, you won't be able to move your axle too far forward. You just won't have the room.

Anyone who says it can't be done is incorrect. You just have to be creative and know there will be limitations; up-travel will be <2", small frame modifications, flat pitman arm, steering box moved...

A friend of mine did this another way - he swapped his 86 4Runner onto an 85 4Runner frame. The solid axle frame gives you a bit more room for steering and up-travel. My last 85 had cross-over with ~2" total lift... Road like a dream, flexed just fine. Joe Chacon did a similar SAS on his 89 pickup - small modification to the frame for steering clearance and only about 2" of total lift. IT CAN BE DONE!!!

Oh - and BTW anyone who says that a Marlin, TG, All-Pro or other SAS kit will give you the advertised lift is incorrect. You'll definitely get 1-2" more than what the kit advertises... Not to slam them, but it's kind of like tire sizes... there is some give...

bkg
 
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