Ball Joint Boots Replacement Question

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Joined
Dec 29, 2006
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Have the boot kits ready to go, but am wondering about the process. Can just the boots be installed without the degree of disassembly necessary to replace the joint itself?
Any tips would be welcomed.
 
Lower ball joint re-boot: You'll need to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle; follow the guide/instructions in FAQ for 'Lower Ball Joint Replacement' for this part of the job.

The boot, as you can surmise if you have the replacement boot kit in hand, is held on by a round spring style wire clamp.

Remove the old boot and retaining clip.

Using copious amounts of brake cleaner clean all the old grease and dirt from the ball and socket portion of the ball joint.

Once this is clean and dry grease the ball joint thoroughly.

Apply sufficient grease in the boot and place over the ball joint.

Attach the spring clip and reverse the knuckle to ball joint procedure.

Good idea to use a new cotter pin.
 
^^^What he said... He taught/walked me through my first one anyway. Also, when reinstalling the new spring clip, take your time and be careful. The bend out of shape really easily.
 
Lower ball joint re-boot: You'll need to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle; follow the guide/instructions in FAQ for 'Lower Ball Joint Replacement' for this part of the job.

The boot, as you can surmise if you have the replacement boot kit in hand, is held on by a round spring style wire clamp.

Remove the old boot and retaining clip.

Using copious amounts of brake cleaner clean all the old grease and dirt from the ball and socket portion of the ball joint.

Once this is clean and dry grease the ball joint thoroughly.

Apply sufficient grease in the boot and place over the ball joint.

Attach the spring clip and reverse the knuckle to ball joint procedure.

Good idea to use a new cotter pin.


Thanks for the detailed reply So the procedure for disassembly is the same whether replacing the ball joint, or just putting on a new boot. The hub has to come off; etc. I was wondering if there was some shortcut to this where just the joint could be seperated and a new boot slipped on.

I will be doing both the upper and lower boots.
 
I don't think there is adequate clearance with the brake dust shield in place...for the puller; I pulled my dust shields apart of the Stoptech brake kit otherwise I'd go out and look at mine for you. You generally can get the upper ball joint taper broken loose by smacking the protruding lug on the upper neck of the steering knuckle (that's what that nub is for) with a BFH. But I've seldom been able to separate the lower ball joint taper without a puller.

If you haven't taken a peak at the hub bearings this would be an opportune time to do it. You'll want to have a selection of circlips for the CV axle ends and probably a new star washer for each side along with wheel bearing grease of course.

Otherwise if there is clearance a plenty for a puller on the lower ball joint then leave the hubs alone...just remove the CV circlip and remove brake rotor with the hub intact with the steering knuckle. Remove and support the brake calipers...just 2 bolts. Be careful of brake lines and ABS wires so you don't stretch them...when the steering knuckle assembly is out of the way. The ABS sensor can be quite stubborn to remove...and they're also easily damaged. And the new ABS sensor with harness is $$$.

You don't need to mess with the t-bars since you are not removing the lower control arms. But be sure to have a jack underneath the lower control arm before you pop the ball joint loose from the control arm...among other safety precautions ;)
 
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The first time I did my lower ball joints I read some place you can do it without pulling the entire hub. After trying for a couple hours to do it with the hub in place, I took the extra 20 min. And just pulled the hub. It makes life much easier... so I would go ahead and break it all the way down.
 
You generally can get the upper ball joint taper broken loose by smacking the protruding lug on the upper neck of the steering knuckle (that's what that nub is for) with a BFH. But I've seldom been able to separate the lower ball joint taper without a puller.

FWIW, a little bit of heat and a good [but not brutal] tap on the nub popped both lower and upper ball joints on mine when I was replacing axles. First time they had been moved in 230K miles. YMMV of course.
 
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