Baja Designs/Ridig LED replacement for OEM fog lights. Has it been done?

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I just had Cyclops Adventure Sports (Kent, WA) drop in the H11 LED bulbs into my 2015 J200; perfect fit. They're 4800w and are an amazing upgrade from the OEM bulbs. I've heard from someone that later year models were sealed units and the entire assembly had to be replaced to upgrade, while the earlier year models, depending on the bulb type, could be a drop-in replacement.

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My next project is how to enable the fog lights to run independent of the head lights position (low beam verses high beam) or completely independent using a dash switch without destructively modifying the ECU wiring or relays.
 
^I've been waiting for someone to solve that riddle. In other Toyota vehicles, it was possible to jumper the fog light power source so it worked independently of the headlights. Haven't had time to figure that out yet.
 
I previously dropped in LED replacements on my 13. They were bright, but there was a ton of light scatter. I went to Rigids and they work much better.
You went with Rigid bulbs or full lamp replacement? I run the 4-emitter Rigids on one of my BMW bikes, but Cyclops and Clearwater on the other bikes; I have no experience with using Rigids for an auto.

Do you run the Rigids off of your stalk light switch (low beam only) or go independent of the light switch? That's my next project, run the lights independent of the light switch but I'm having trouble finding a good reference design.
 
Quick question; does any of the Rigid models used trip any of the CANBus error codes if you're plugging them into the wiring harness?
 
You went with Rigid bulbs or full lamp replacement? I run the 4-emitter Rigids on one of my BMW bikes, but Cyclops and Clearwater on the other bikes; I have no experience with using Rigids for an auto.

Do you run the Rigids off of your stalk light switch (low beam only) or go independent of the light switch? That's my next project, run the lights independent of the light switch but I'm having trouble finding a good reference design.
I am using a set of Rigid squadron driving lights. I previously used LED replacement bulbs.

My Rigids are run through my Switch-Pros, not any factory wiring but I could easily use the factory wires as a input trigger. I pretty much use them all the time.

I used to have motorcycles too, and I buy into extra lights for visibility.
 
My next project is how to enable the fog lights to run independent of the head lights position (low beam verses high beam) or completely independent using a dash switch without destructively modifying the ECU wiring or relays.
I don't believe the fog lights are controlled by the ECU, but I could be wrong as I haven't dug into the wiring diagrams.

If you want to run it via a toggle switch on your dash I would think it would be fairly easy. You just need a switch, access to 12V power, a relay, some wire, and likely a couple 1A diodes to prevent current backflow. The clean way is to run everything independent, use some wire taps to tie into the fog light wiring at the lights, and then use the diodes to isolate the two methods of turning the lights on. Alternately you could use the switch to power the existing fog light relay. Either way here's an example of how to wire one of those Air-On-Board push button switches so that your driving lights are tied to your high beam switch (which is the exact opposite of what you're trying to do, but it should give you a good starting point if your knowledge of electronics is limited).

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I don't believe the fog lights are controlled by the ECU, but I could be wrong as I haven't dug into the wiring diagrams.

If you want to run it via a toggle switch on your dash I would think it would be fairly easy. You just need a switch, access to 12V power, a relay, some wire, and likely a couple 1A diodes to prevent current backflow. The clean way is to run everything independent, use some wire taps to tie into the fog light wiring at the lights, and then use the diodes to isolate the two methods of turning the lights on. Alternately you could use the switch to power the existing fog light relay. Either way here's an example of how to wire one of those Air-On-Board push button switches so that your driving lights are tied to your high beam switch (which is the exact opposite of what you're trying to do, but it should give you a good starting point if your knowledge of electronics is limited).

Linux, this is really good, thank you! I'm an EE and so I tend to be OCD on things 12vdc electrical, like relay types etc and this approach looks really straightforward, thank you!
I use Posi-taps on most things (motorcycles mainly) so it should be pretty non-destructive to the wiring harness.
My goal this weekend, besides riding, is to get this sorted out and set up on the truck, hopefully working if the rain holds out.
Many thanks for the great diagram!
Best - Dane
 
If you want to run it via a toggle switch on your dash I would think it would be fairly easy. You just need a switch, access to 12V power, a relay, some wire, and likely a couple 1A diodes to prevent current backflow. The clean way is to run everything independent, use some wire taps to tie into the fog light wiring at the lights, and then use the diodes to isolate the two methods of turning the lights on. Alternately you could use the switch to power the existing fog light relay. Either way here's an example of how to wire one of those Air-On-Board push button switches so that your driving lights are tied to your high beam switch (which is the exact opposite of what you're trying to do, but it should give you a good starting point if your knowledge of electronics is limited).

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I'm about to install a pair of the 6" rigid sae fogs into a dissent front bumper. I haven't really had time to look into this yet, but my plan is to use the factory fog harness to run these.
Does anyone foresee any issues with this (like stock wire gauge?) or should I run the new wires/relay that came with the lights.
 
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I'm about to install a pair of the 6" rigid sae fogs into a dissent front bumper. I haven't really had time to look into this yet, but my plan is to use the factory fog harness to run these.
Does anyone foresee any issues with this (like stock wire gauge?) or should I run the new wires/relay that came with the lights.

Those should draw far less amperage than the stock incandescents. Stock wiring should be sufficient.
 
For all the late night driving in the Sierra I find the IPF LED replacement bulbs are fantastic. On long dives to much light starts make my eyes tired.
 
I installed the SS3 Pros from Diode Dynamics and they've been fantastic. Great fit. Still planning to wrap the chrome to make it less 'bling', but no issues and fantastic output.

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What kind of light pattern does the ss3 pro throw? I'm looking for a light to go in the blank position just inboard of the stock fogs that has a plastic blank. Just to the left in your pic. I think I can make that work.
 
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What kind of light pattern does the ss3 pro throw? I'm looking for a light to go in the blank position just onboard of the stock fogs that has a plastic blank. Just to the left in your pic. I think I can make that work.

I believe depending on the version will affect the pattern, and then the pro is higher lumens- the 'pro' is very wide horizontal which was what I was looking for to get visibility on the sides as well. There's a few options for tweaking the beam pattern too...here are some of the photos from DD's site.

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That more than answers my question!

I was thinking a low profile light bar on the roof rack, but the more I think about this, the more I'm preferring a low profile approach. To minimize aero impact, additional accessories, and gas mileage.

By re-working the stock light elements, I'm getting plenty of forward light. 3500-4500 high lumen H11 LED bulbs in all stock light fixture locations - headlight, high beam, fogs. The lighting element I don't have is a spot throw, which is why I ask. Thanks!
 
I've got 2x BD squadron led driving light in the fog position, 2x 10" dual row Black Oak light bars in the bumper and a 40" single row Black Oak on the rack, and the amount of light put out by the lightbar on the roof blows away the light from all of the other sources. It is way too much for legal use on the road. One nice thing about the Switch-Pros is you can dim LEDs down. (One not so nice thing is that it doesn't remember the dimmer setting on restart.)
 
I've got 2x BD squadron led driving light in the fog position, 2x 10" dual row Black Oak light bars in the bumper and a 40" single row Black Oak on the rack, and the amount of light put out by the lightbar on the roof blows away the light from all of the other sources. It is way too much for legal use on the road. One nice thing about the Switch-Pros is you can dim LEDs down. (One not so nice thing is that it doesn't remember the dimmer setting on restart.)

That 40" Black Oak - "single row" is Bright! I can't even look at it in daylight. Definitely not street legal and thanks for the reminder on the Switch-Pro dimming option.
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