Bad Vibes when braking at high speeds

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bhicks

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I picked up a new to me 03LX470 a few weeks ago. I'm in the middle of base lining it right now. I noticed since the day I picked up it that I got these vibes when I was going over 50mph and starting to break. I go zero vibes at any speed if I'm not braking. That made me think it's not a tire balance issue or an alignment issue. If I'm going down hill at high speeds and start to break it's MUCH worse. I can feel it in the brake pedal and steering wheel. I thought it was warped rotors since the previous owner used PepBoys for maintenance and they use very cheap rotors. I have new OEM rotors and some Wagner ceramic pads ready to go in. I just want to make sure there isn't some other very common 100 series thing that causes these vibes. Ideally, I would like to repair it while I have the hubs all torn apart for new rotors and pads. I don't want to redo the brakes to find out later that there is some very common/known vibe issue that could have been fixed when I had everything torn apart. I HATE doing things twice.
 
I have an 06 LC and have the same issue. My research has lead me to the same conclusion that its the rotors. I have my parts on order and will keep an eye on your thread to see the follow up. I'll let you know how my repair goes. I'm also planing on installing new wheel bearings, bleeding the brakes and installing extended brake lines as I have a 2.5 OME Lift.
 
Its the rotors. Wifes LX was doing the same thing to a lesser degree from your description and rotors still had plenty of life but were a little warped. Friend at dealership turned them while on the car and its smooth as can be. 100's seem to eat up pads and rotors but they do weigh a fair amount.
 
thanks for the quick replies. I had the same issue on my 93 4Runner many years ago. I had the brakes done at PepBoys and within a few weeks I had the same vibes. I guess the lesson is, don't use PepBoys personal "economy" pads and rotors that come with their brake service. There is a reason why the brake job quote is so cheap. that parts match the quote.
 
I hope to swap out the pads and rotors this weekend. I will update this thread as to the outcome.
 
Back in the day (~90k), similar symptoms showed it was the rotors.

Replaced w/ DBA slotted and OEM pads resulted in very smooth braking since.
 
Friend at dealership turned them while on the car and its smooth as can be. 100's seem to eat up pads and rotors but they do weigh a fair amount.

Just curious how do they turn the rotors while on the car? And what does that cost?
 
They have an on car lathe. Basically a brake lathe on a stand. It shouldnt cost more than $150 or so to have the fronts turned on the car

exactly, supposedly it trues up the rotor to the vehicle vs. just on the lathe machine so it really works well for vibrations etc. local dealer here normally charges about that much without a friend discount;)
 
Just curious how do they turn the rotors while on the car? And what does that cost?

Back pads seem to go twice as quick as fronts. But yeah, probably not going to get 80k on a set of brakes like you'll see on some domestic full size vehicles. I beat on my ford and get 40-50k on a set.
 
Just curious, why the ceramic brake pads? Is there some data on these that operate at lower temperatures and stop better?
I was told ceramic is the OE material. I have also used premium wagner pads for years with great results. So I went with the wagner ceramics. I got my info of the OEM pads being ceramic on this forum. Hopefully that info was correct.
 
Just curious how do they turn the rotors while on the car? And what does that cost?
There are actually on-vehicle brake lathes. The advantages of them are that it takes into consideration if there is any runout in the hub, and mitigates the potential (because of hub runout) for the brakes to pulsate after turning rotors and reinstalling on the vehicle. Good luck finding a shop that actually has one though.
 
Tires and/ or rotors. Had issues with both.

Get a good quality set of tires properly balanced, then new rotors if still vibrating.

I found they go hand-in-hand. Running Micheline Lattitudes and OEM rotors. Smooth as silk.
 
I was told ceramic is the OE material. I have also used premium wagner pads for years with great results. So I went with the wagner ceramics. I got my info of the OEM pads being ceramic on this forum. Hopefully that info was correct.

OE might be part ceramic, I still get quite a bit of brake dust. I used the thermo quiet on another vehicle and didn't have any issues that I recall.
 
OE might be part ceramic, I still get quite a bit of brake dust. I used the thermo quiet on another vehicle and didn't have any issues that I recall.

Thermo Quiet is the Wagner Premium Brand. they may make them is Ceramic and possibly other materials. Not sure of that, but the ones I have in my garage are the Wagner "Thermo Quiet" ceramic pads. Used these on my trail Jeeps for years and had great results with them. They are also quite affordable. Also ran them on my little commuter Kia for years and they outlasted and outperformed the OEM pads that original came on the car. I'm definitely not saying they are the best pads out there, just that they are good pads for a good price.
 
A stuck caliper piston can cause something like that. Kind of hard to detect because when it cools the rotor flattens out again.
 
A stuck caliper piston can cause something like that. Kind of hard to detect because when it cools the rotor flattens out again.
I guess I will find out the issue when I tear into it this weekend.
 
They have an on car lathe. Basically a brake lathe on a stand. It shouldnt cost more than $150 or so to have the fronts turned on the car

That's a great concept - had no idea this could be done. With the amount of work required to remove the front rotors, having them turned while on the car and slapping on some new pads makes a front brake job much easier (unless the rotors are beyond service of course).
 
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