tesq
SILVER Star
Hello again,
Another post in case someone runs into the same issues I've been fixing.
The second of two DTC codes I had when I first bought my hundy was a B1269 - Theft Deterrent ECU Communication Stop. The panic button on my key fob wouldn't do anything, and the security light would flash instead of remain solid when I locked the doors. Since I'm headed to the Bay Area for the holiday, I figured I should get my car alarm up and running.
I've been behind the nav unit a few times now (GPS disconnected, GROM VL2, etc.), which makes me very much appreciate the attention to detail and serviceability of this truck. I thought the B1269 issue would require me to pull the dash, but thankfully that was not the case.
Follow FSM steps to remove the nav unit: basically, use a pry tool on the lower O-shaped wood trim. Try to pry as much from the top and bottom as possible: the left and right side walls are the thinest part of this plastic and prone to chip if you crank on them with a pry tool. Then, remove the center vents by pulling straight back. Lastly, 4 10-mm bolts keep the nav unit in. Pull back on the unit to disengage the clips and guides that hold it on the top and bottom. I used a towel on top of the shifter/tcase lever/ebrake to rest the nav unit so i didnt have to unplug everything.
Second, remove the passenger side intermediate duct. There's an access hole that gives you a straight shot to the 10mm/phillips screw. Once the screw is removed, rock the duct back and forth, tilting it outboard to fit through the vent-shaped opening.
With the intermediate vent removed, you can look towards the passenger mirror on the top underside of the dash (outboard and up) and have a little more room to work with. I have sausage fingers, so this extra room was critical. You might be able to work with the space thats there even with the intermediate duct installed. The theft deterrent ecu is held in by a single 8mm/phillips screw that is attached with the head facing the engine bay, pointing towards the rear of the car. The screw is located on the L-bracket of the ecu, outboard of a locating hole/nub (as you can see in the photo, the L-bracket has two holes). I recommend a mirror or phone to help see. Use an 8mm spanner to remove the screw, or a small ratchet if you have one.
In my case, the ecu wasn't plugged in (as expected-I previously found the GPS unplugged and I know the previous owner had the dash out for some maintenance). The plug for this ecu is packed right up against the main loom, towards the front of the under-dash space. I found it easiest to disconnect the jumper cable from the ecu, plug in the appropriate 2x11 plug into the main loom, and then plug the wider part back into the theft deterrent ECU.
Reassembly is the reverse of breakdown. After everything was back together, no more Body DTC codes, my panic button works, and my security light stays solid when I lock the vehicle. Lucky for me, the previous tech just forgot to plug everything back in.
Happy to help if anyone has any questions.
-tesq
Another post in case someone runs into the same issues I've been fixing.
The second of two DTC codes I had when I first bought my hundy was a B1269 - Theft Deterrent ECU Communication Stop. The panic button on my key fob wouldn't do anything, and the security light would flash instead of remain solid when I locked the doors. Since I'm headed to the Bay Area for the holiday, I figured I should get my car alarm up and running.
I've been behind the nav unit a few times now (GPS disconnected, GROM VL2, etc.), which makes me very much appreciate the attention to detail and serviceability of this truck. I thought the B1269 issue would require me to pull the dash, but thankfully that was not the case.
Follow FSM steps to remove the nav unit: basically, use a pry tool on the lower O-shaped wood trim. Try to pry as much from the top and bottom as possible: the left and right side walls are the thinest part of this plastic and prone to chip if you crank on them with a pry tool. Then, remove the center vents by pulling straight back. Lastly, 4 10-mm bolts keep the nav unit in. Pull back on the unit to disengage the clips and guides that hold it on the top and bottom. I used a towel on top of the shifter/tcase lever/ebrake to rest the nav unit so i didnt have to unplug everything.
Second, remove the passenger side intermediate duct. There's an access hole that gives you a straight shot to the 10mm/phillips screw. Once the screw is removed, rock the duct back and forth, tilting it outboard to fit through the vent-shaped opening.
With the intermediate vent removed, you can look towards the passenger mirror on the top underside of the dash (outboard and up) and have a little more room to work with. I have sausage fingers, so this extra room was critical. You might be able to work with the space thats there even with the intermediate duct installed. The theft deterrent ecu is held in by a single 8mm/phillips screw that is attached with the head facing the engine bay, pointing towards the rear of the car. The screw is located on the L-bracket of the ecu, outboard of a locating hole/nub (as you can see in the photo, the L-bracket has two holes). I recommend a mirror or phone to help see. Use an 8mm spanner to remove the screw, or a small ratchet if you have one.
In my case, the ecu wasn't plugged in (as expected-I previously found the GPS unplugged and I know the previous owner had the dash out for some maintenance). The plug for this ecu is packed right up against the main loom, towards the front of the under-dash space. I found it easiest to disconnect the jumper cable from the ecu, plug in the appropriate 2x11 plug into the main loom, and then plug the wider part back into the theft deterrent ECU.
Reassembly is the reverse of breakdown. After everything was back together, no more Body DTC codes, my panic button works, and my security light stays solid when I lock the vehicle. Lucky for me, the previous tech just forgot to plug everything back in.
Happy to help if anyone has any questions.
-tesq
