axle shaft length?

[DiscoveryXD]

So I setup another rover/toyota axle just in case the last one was bent (the guy I got it from wheels a LOT) I also bought a brand new 3rd so there was no question about the diff.
This is the diff I'm running... Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment

So I still have a slight noise at nuetral throttle when the gears are in float. The only thing that isn't brand new on this 2nd setup are the axle shafts. The shafts are made to fit a 30 spline yota diff, and bolt up to a rover hub.

Here's the question, when I slide the shaft in, it slides smoothly into place except for the last 1/8 to 1/16". I don't have to force it, but I can definitely feel it come into contact with something in the diff. Like I said, it isn't something I have to force, just a little resistance. Shouldn't it just be contacting the splines? If so, then it should slide smoothly into place until it seats on the hub, right?

I'm wondering if this slight difference in length. Is what's causing my problems since that's the only part I haven't changed! If it is pushing on the inside there, could that cause damage? Spider gears? I don't know enough about diffs to tell....

If anyone knows of a fzj80 at a decent price, let me know....

 

[krokarthecrooked]

Well its been my experience that you do have some resistance either going in or pulling the axle shafts out of Toyota diffs so i think this is a normal thing but as far as length goes that youll have to check with someplace that can tell you the correct length of that axle shaft and go from there i would check with Marlin or currie or some place like that hope this helps out bud. and if you have noise in neutral then i dont think its your axle shafts because there is no pressure on your axle shafts in neutral i think i would check your T-case and trans as those are the only things that have moving parts while in neutral for that noise thats if im reading your post right. if you havent already then i would put the rig in neutral with the motor running and block the wheels set the E brake and lay under your rig by the trans and T-case and listen very closely to those 2 items


Dan

 

[chicago]

When stubbing the shaft into the splines in the diff, there is SOME resistance. Youve gotta imagine there is more surface area contact when sliding the two splined surfaces together, so it'll have some resistance.
However, Ill have to agree with Fallon Dan in that if there are NO GEARS engaged, the rig is stationary, in neutral and running, I could NOT see how then the problem would be the axle?

Assuming that is the case....

 

[DiscoveryXD]

Its hard to explain what I mean about the axle shaft having resistance when it slides into the diff. I can feel it slide in almost all the way smoothly with no effort, then the last 1/16" it feels like its hitting something, and I have to give it a push. Like its bottoming out almost. I'm just wondering if its just a hair too long and if that was the case would it cause problems?

As for the neutral throttle thing goes, I mean neutral as in not accelerating or slowing down. The truck is coasting with my foot barely on the gas. The noise only appears after the drivetrain has warmed up, and when coasting with the gears in float at above 40 mph. Not neutral in your transmission, but neutral throttle as in not slowing down or giving it gas and accelerating, just coasting.

I've had people say it could be my t case since it is gear driven and the tend to have play. I don't see how the t case could cause problems with the gears in my diff though...

I guess ill just drive the damn thing cuase its been useless for the last 4 months and I can't take not having a truck anymore.

 

[chicago]

Ive got nothing bro!
That is a tough one for sure, and without experiencing what you are...
So its Toy shafts in the rover housing and diffs?

 

[locrwln1]

The fact that you have custom shafts, will make it difficult to determine if your shafts are the correct length. The only way to measure everything would be to pull the axles, run a tape measure into the diff and "hook" the inside of the side gear, measure out to the end of the hub flange and see what you have. Then measure that against the axle shafts that you have, maybe even compare them to some stock shafts to see how much of a difference there is. I don't see how 1/16" would make the gears noisey. The is a little bit of "fudge" room inside the diff to allow for axle length.

No matter what, I think you are going to have some "gear" whine. I do. You have a gear driven, off-set drive, t-case. Have you or can you change the pinion angle and see if there is any difference?

I have gotten mine down to a pretty minor growl and I think it is the best I can do. I have been driving it for 20k+ that way.

Jack

 

[DiscoveryXD]

Keith, this is what I did over a year ago, and had to redo again last week. Land Rover Toyota Conversion

Its a yota diff in a rover housing with yota splined shafts that bolt to a rover wheel hub.

Thanks Jack, I have the pinion set atthe exact same angle as the t case. I played with the angle a little bit with the last diff, but didn't notice anything different as far as the noise goes.

I don't mind the noise, its just that it might get worse as time goes by until the diff is ruined like the last one. That's why I was wondering about the shafts cause they're the only thing left I haven't replaced.
These aftermarket parts I keep putting on are the only problems I'm having with the truck, but yet no-one else seems to be going through this.

Want to trade for the 80? Hahahahaha, I wish.....

Thanks for the input fellas

 

[rusty_tlc]

FWIW my 98 LC t-case growls, I notice it more when it's cold, it almost goes away when everything warms up. The Orion gears are quite after a couple of years but you still hear them, I'm still waiting for the low range gears to wear in.

On the axles, I know with my 40 I have to really lean on the axles to get them in far enough to free the C-Clips. The last time I had the rear out I actually had to give the DS a whack with a dead blow mallet to get the c-clip back on.

Just a suggestion but I'd try filling the diff with cheap oil and changing it every few thousand miles jut to keep an eye on things. Wal-Mart has 80-90wt for $11.72 a gallon. Once you are comfortable that everything is okay fill it up with synth or whatever makes you happy.

 

[WILLD420]

It's not a seal is it? On a 9" ford, the last 1/4" ish is tight on the shafts that have the seal integral with the flange on the outside of the bearing. Is the shaft seating into the hub? Or is it like a Dana full floater that the bolts are the only thing holding it on?

If the spiders/locker has a little burr on the inside of the splines where they were machined, it could cause the tightness you are talking about.

As for vibration? Who knows.... My Ramcharger can't make up it's mind. One day it vibrates at 35 mph like it's going to come apart, the next day it's smooth as silk. Somedays it likes to coast, other days it prefers not too. I know the driveline angles aren't perfect, but it works for now till I get the time to mess with it.

 

[DiscoveryXD]

Rovers have full floating axles like the dana, so its just 5 bolts and the shaft slides right out. After reading some of the personal experiences on here, I think that it is normal as far as the resistance at the last bit goes. I have been throwing ideas around like crazy trying to figure things out, so maybe I'm just worrying myself to death!

I talked to keith (the guy that owns/sells the yota conversion) and he said he thinks its just new gear noise and to drive it. He said if it has problems later than he will replace the diff. Nice guy who stands by his product 100% and that's awesome.

So hopefully this is just some normal gear noise and it will stay that way!
I drove the truck to work today, and I can't tell you how much I missed driving that thing for the past few months. Talk about a love hate relationship.... Haha

Thanks for the input guys