Axle diagnosis help - Ring and pinion

[wb1948]

I posted a week ago thinking I had a t-case problems, and was informed that it was definately an axle problem. A quick runover of the symptons are -

-Was driving at low speeds after some high torque mudding, and something gave out as rpms redlined

-The car would not move, only the front driveshaft would spin

-The car drove normal with center diff lock on and front shaft removed

I finally got around to checking the axle oil, and want to pass my findings by you guys.

The oil has what seems like golden glitter in it. From the small sample I took, there are no large pieces of metal I can see. The oil is a "healthy" black color.

-Does this "glitter" mean that I have broke my ring and pinion gears?

If so, I am slightly happy. Good excuse for 4.88s. Unless of course I have caused other extensive damage...

-What do I need to look for in addition to R&P if the R&P was the initial problem?

-Do I need to take birfields out?

I am most likely going to have a private toyota mechanic do the work, I just want to make sure it is not something I can fix, and that some bumb ass mechanic is not ripping me off(tried it before). Well thanks a lot for your help, and hopefully it turns out to be R&P and nothing else.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Does the car still not drive when the center is unlocked? Ring and pinion failure almost always goes with bad sounds when driving. Are you still driving the truck? If so you are messing things up. If indeed your R&P is broken, the metal inside there is also distroying all the bearings.

Smalll amount of very fine metal shavings (more like hair) is ok. Large chuncks is not. You need to pull the birflields to get the third member out

Is the mechanic you are considering to use now the same one that you say tried to rip you off before? Is so it is really a bad attitute to go into this with a shop. Or even if it is not, then it is really unfair to judge a new guy by the same standards. Most times when things seems like a rip off to customers it is due to not enough communication up front.

 

[wb1948]

Does the car still not drive when the center is unlocked?

The drive shaft is not in, and hell no. I have not been driving it. I have been too scared to work on it

Could anyone possibly list real fast the things that could cause the problem I am experiencing? For example, could simply a broke birf cause this? ect.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Broken birf does not have anything to do with metal shavings in the diff, unless it was driven for a long time and the inner axle seal had failed etc etc. Only diagnosis that is 100% is taking it apart. How far depends on when you find the broken parts.

 

[wb1948]

Broken birf does not have anything to do with metal shavings in the diff, unless it was driven for a long time and the inner axle seal had failed etc etc. Only diagnosis that is 100% is taking it apart. How far depends on when you find the broken parts.

Well damn then, a full axle disassembly it is. Will I need more moly grease for when a take out the birfs?

 

[cruiserman]

Pull the diff and take a look. Not a big deal.

 

[airlaird]

If it is your R&P let me know..I got my 4:11s for 175 bucks if you want them. Provided you don't go to 4:88's
airlaird

 

[wb1948]

I broke the birfield inner race, nothing too hard core. I am going to post pics of the damage and get ya'lls opinion on what is salvageable and what needs to be done. Then I will call C-dan.

Oh ya, I am going 4.88s too. Had both axles pulled, decided to pull third and decided what the hell, might as well get it regeared.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

I have had my 4.88's installed since Thursday---have put on about 250 miles since then so I haven't had it above 2000 rpm. The regear is sweet the truck feels much lighter-- I used to drive with my overdrive off when I had the 31's--no need now and they are 35's Great mod-- The cruiser is perfect now