Aux light wiring diagram needed

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by M32H32is, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. M32H32is

    M32H32is

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    Yes, I've searched for the past 2 hours or so. I cannot figure out the best method to go about setting up the fuse block / relay system. Never done this before, so if anyone can guide me please do. My plan from what I've read this far:

    10ga hot coming off batt to a fuse block.

    12/14ga coming off that to individual sets of lights:

    - 2 hella 550's on the bullbar to a switch
    - 4 LEDs on the roof wired to a switch
    - 2 led spot lights out back to a switch
    - 1 winch line dedicated to switch
    - 1 switch to interior compressor located where factory sub was

    My questions:

    Each "set" grounded individually, with in-line fuse or is that necessary since I'm running a master aux fuse block???

    Best fuse block source (west marine?)?
    Best gauge wiring?
    Best ground source?
    Would I need additional relays? Where?
     
  2. M32H32is

    M32H32is

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    Hmm

    Does this look like a better solution?

    Where it says fuse, can I put a fuse block?
     

    Attached Files:

  3. DARKNESS

    DARKNESS

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    You'll need a relay for every device you want to switch separately. I'd run constant fused power to pins 30 and 86. Use a switch between pin 85 and the ground. Ground the switches to the body in the cab. Pin 87 goes to what you want to power. Ground your devices at the closest ground on the body.
     
  4. DARKNESS

    DARKNESS

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  5. loucaojr

    loucaojr

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    Hi,

    For example, here in PT, so you have everything legal, you can only have aux lights/spot lights on along with high beam.
    In low beams you can only use as extra light the foglights.
    And due to these the installation is a bit different.

    For my cars I've used the following diagram for spot lights
    [​IMG]
    Where "suplementares" is auxiliary light and "instalação original luzes maximos + " is original high beam positive wiring.
     
  6. blkprj80

    blkprj80 SILVER Star

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    I would say that is a bad solution. Think about what would happen if the hot wire going to the switch were pinched to ground (chassis). Yep, burning wire smell, or worse. This is because you would probably use a 30A fuse to power the lights, and that would likely get your smaller switch wire very hot in a short circuit condition.

    Best approach is to use the switch to ground one side of your coil while the other side of the coil is attached to fused power or headlight main. That way, if the wire gets pinched, it turns the lights on. It can't fry the wiring because the current is limited by the coil. You can usually conveniently attach a ring terminal to ground (chassis) somewhere close to the switch. Then you only have to run one wire back from your relay to your switch.

    Talking about relays, you want your relay close the the lights and close to the battery. Use it to minimize the length of wire your lights have to go through.
     
  7. ColoradoYeti

    ColoradoYeti

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    I'm also currently working on an aux light harness. I second the use of ground switching to protect those switches. The best ground source is the ones Toyota engineers use; all those chassis grounds. There are on ton on the truck. And for the fusible link vs fuse box, why not use both. A 30A or 40A fusible link coming of the battery could really save your butt if everything else goes wrong.
     
  8. M32H32is

    M32H32is

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    Using both in-line seems like overkill IMo.

    I do like the idea of fused switches though.

    I still don't understand the point of tapping the headlight + wire for power. That pigeon holes you into only running the lights in tandem. What if I'm setting up a tent in the dark and only need the roof rack lights?

    Just my .02c.

    Thank you, everyone who has replied and offered your thoughts & mindshare! I am appreciative of every post.
     
  9. M32H32is

    M32H32is

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    Darkness, thanks for the heads up on relays!
     
  10. blkprj80

    blkprj80 SILVER Star

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    Tapping the headlight for power is required in some states so driving lights can only be on with high beams.
     
  11. ColoradoYeti

    ColoradoYeti

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    Tapping the headlight also makes sure you don't accidentally come back to a dead battery. Another option would be use another power source that is only on when keys are on ACC.
     
  12. M32H32is

    M32H32is

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    So I could tap the cig lighter for power, & run a fused hot wire straight to the relay and that would be the same as tapping the head light?

    Is the question/statement above true or false?
     
  13. blkprj80

    blkprj80 SILVER Star

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    True, for the coil side only.
    Battery for the light supply, fused 30A.
     
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