Autometer gauges---Sending units?

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Ive looked over all or at least all I could find regarding the autometer gauges. My tub and body panels are almost done at the paint shop so I am trying to hurry and get what is needed to knock out all the wiring once the rig is back in my garage. The details:

1973 fj40 chassis, 1974 fj40 tub, with a 2f motor. I am not positive of the year for the motor but for some reason my mind keeps telling me it is from a 1986 fj60.

I purchased the Autometer Antique gauges and paired them up with a nice trail candy panel. Okay now onto business:

Speedo(Mechanical)
Fuel(Electrical)
Volt(Electrical)
Temp(Electrical)
Oil(Electrical)

The stock gauges were not working for the most part in my 40 prior to tearing it down. However one of the POs had installed a gauge cluster which was temp,oil, and voltage. These gauges were all mechanical.

My question to you all is, what sending units do I need to purchase for these new gauges I have purchased to work??? Obviously the mechanical gauges will not work with the electrical gauges so I am SOL there. What do I need to buy or do to get these puppies to work.

I know I am beating a dead horse probably with this thread, however I am not electrically inclined and really need some good advice and I thought you all would be the best to turn to for some help!

Thank you in advance!

Sully
 
pics

pictures
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IMG_4463.webp
 
Dave-- The Po installed a painless kit but much of the Connections weren't quite right... I don't have the original harness, but I purchased a new EZ wiring harness for install. I don't have the OEM switches either so I'm gonna have to figure that one out as well. I took pictures of every single wire that I removed from every single connection, however I'm sure the painless kit (harness removed) will have different color codes wires than the EZ kit I'll be installing
 
My question to you all is, what sending units do I need to purchase for these new gauges I have purchased to work???

You need the Autometer sending units for those gauges, they all have different resistivity than the stock sending units. My Autometer gauges all came with the correct sender, but I'm sure they will sell you some if yours didn't. Then you will need adapters for the water temp. and oil pressure sending units, to go from metric to Autometer's thread sizes. I bought my adapters from Summit Racing, but if you have a big enough/good enough auto parts store nearby they might have them too.
 
The Autometer gauges will come with the proper senders EXCEPT for the fuel gauge (usually). Look at the resistance requirements of your gauge (as Autometer sells about 3 or 4 flavors of fuel gauges) and choose a universal float/sender that matches. None of the Autometer gauges match the stock sender electrically so it will need to be replaced.

Also as stated NPT to BSPT adapters will be needed for the oil pressure and water temp fittings, but only if you're trying to use a port smaller than 1/2". Oil pressure usually goes into 1/8" so its a good idea to get an adapter for that one. But you'll probably find that the water temp sender needs a larger hole - if you can find a 1/2" plug in the head or Tstat housing there is no need for an adapter; it is acceptable to use 1/2" and larger BSPT with NPT interchangeably.
 
Thank you gentleman! Okay I opened the box once again to see what else was in the box. It looks like they did send me the sending units for the oil, fuel, and water temp.

They sent me two different adapter pieces for the water temp which I'm not positive of their sizes. One looks to be 1/2 inch while the other is slightly smaller.

Does anyone have pictures of where these sending units should be installed on the 2F? Should they be installed where the mechanical units are?
 
I know you need this part for the Oil Pressure - Auto Meter 2269 - Auto Meter Metric Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com I had to buy one when I bought all my gauges as well. I installed the water temp sensor on the top of my block (I have a '65 F motor), the oil pressure one will go on the left side of the block, basically replacing the stock one.

I haven't installed my gauges yet, I'm waiting to receive my Trail Candy panel, but do you know if you can use the stock speedo cable for the autometer gauges?
 
Thanks for the link mate. The stock speedo cable won't work. I am going to take my stock cable and the new gauge into a speed shop and have them produce a cable for me. It's probably going to be salty in price but fortunately I can get it to the length I want. It seems like the stock cables everyone sells are just a little short.
 
Did you have mechanical or electrical gauges before? Are you just installing the electrical sending units where the mechanical units are?
 
My mechanical oil temp unit seems to be connected right below the oil filter, do you or anyone know if this is where the new unit needs to be mounted?
 
I have the stock gauges, so I know the oil/temp are electric, I replaced the fuel gauge with the autometer one, and I'm removing the ammeter, and replacing with volt. I'm basically replacing all the stock gauges and cluster with a new setup.

I dont know about your setup, but your block should have a SU already on it, the picture below shows what mine looks like. This is the left side of my block, the SU is on the right side of the picture.
IMG_20110711_211845.webp
 
Thanks for the picture, I have a 2f so I'm sure it'll be different but at least I can look for it something that might be similar. Any suggestions on how to cap the mechanical oil unit after removal? It is connected to the base where the oil filter screws in. Sorry for the lack of exact terminology, it's a Hoosier thing
 
You could use a brass plug, once you get the old unit off, take it to your favorite autoparts store and match up the size and threads for a plug.

I did something like this when I removed the heater components from my motor.
 
Daniel,

On the speedo cable, I had one made at a shop here by the house. Not too expensive. You can use the stock cable and have the end replaced with a compatible one for the AM speedo. I'm sure they can make a complete cable if you need also but not sure what that would run. I will try and dig up the contact info if ya want....

Also, on the fuel sending unit, I can pull my seat and see which one I got but you want to make sure you get the right resistance or it won't work. Don't ask how I found out but I ended up buying two.....
 
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