Auto trans cooler for Sahara? (1 Viewer)

[r0cket]

Hi folks- new to the forum, and new 2001 LC 100 owner. Vehicle is a Japan spec TD, currently in Ireland. Will be collecting it shortly to start an overland expedition through Sahara and West Africa. It has been modded for overlanding, but has stock auto trans. I understand that there were some isolated issues with the trans in 2000 models? My question is, should I look at installing an aftermarket trans cooler to handle the load/heat? We will be doing extended solo travel on Sahara pistes and sand with deflated tires - it could literally be life threatening to have the trans fail, even with GPS beacon. Is the stock cooler up to task? Should I install trans temp gauge?

Thanks, Rick.

 

[hankinid]

Hi folks- new to the forum, and new 2001 LC 100 owner. Vehicle is a Japan spec TD, currently in Ireland. Will be collecting it shortly to start an overland expedition through Sahara and West Africa. It has been modded for overlanding, but has stock auto trans. I understand that there were some isolated issues with the trans in 2000 models? My question is, should I look at installing an aftermarket trans cooler to handle the load/heat? We will be doing extended solo travel on Sahara pistes and sand with deflated tires - it could literally be life threatening to have the trans fail, even with GPS beacon. Is the stock cooler up to task? Should I install trans temp gauge?

Does the truck have a cooler (about a 12" x 12") air-to-trans fluid cooler in front of the radiator on the right side (as you face the truck) of the engine compartment?? If so, that's the 2nd cooler...the radiator is the first.

If no 2nd cooler, I'd add one. A trans temp gauge definitely seems worthwhile, given where you're going.

Steve

 

[yovanoel]

Here in Dubai, temperatures regularly cross 50°C in summer. An additional trans cooler is considered to be pretty essential if one ventures into the desert for any extended duration of time.

I mean c'mon - if you can keep the tranny fluid cooler then you only stand to gain! It pretty much the same principle with engine oil really.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[r0cket]

Thanks for the response. OK, so the truck does not have a stock secondary cooler in front of the rad. Is there a stock set of parts from Toyota to add this? Or is after market the way to go? If so, any recommendations on suppliers/parts? Seems I might as well add the temp gauge while I am at it. Any recommendations on that?

Thanks, Rick

 

[TexasCharley]

Bump up

 

[r0cket]

Hey TexasCharley- thanks for the bump. In the absence of responses, I did a forum search on trans cooler and came up with a bit of info, but still looking for help.

Came across this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-100-tranny-gone-2002-96k-help.445016/page-7

Which scares the crap out of me...

So, my LC is a Japan spec VX100 turbo diesel, and does not have the secondary trans cooler. I have heard it is the same trans as the V8 gas motor? So similar after market coolers should work?

Found this one: http://www.etrailer.com/Transmissio...Cruiser/2001/D13611.html?vehicleid=2001759507

I know that the truck was previously used to pull a trailer in Ireland. It has been fully serviced and checked over by Toyota dealer in Ireland. Previous owner did a trip from Ireland to South Africa with no troubles. But I am nervous- crossing parts of Mauritania off-piste is part of our plan.

What is best option for cooler and temp gauge?

Thanks, Rick

 

[hoser]

The data plate on your 100 will reveal the transmission.... it is either A343F or A442F. Personally, I'd go with OE on the transmission cooler. It is about 2-3 times the size of the Derale cooler you linked.

 

[r0cket]

Hi hoser
thanks for the response. I am checking on the trans code (truck is in Ireland, I am in US. Haven't even driven it yet :-( )

The OE cooler from Toyota is $390 (list $532), while etrailer has a few Derale options, different sizes. This one looks to be as large as the toyota unit, for $56: http://www.etrailer.com/Transmissio...Cruiser/2001/D13503.html?vehicleid=2001759556
Is the OEM unit worth that much more? I really do want the highest level of reliability, but money doesn't grow on trees...

Is temp gauge worth it as well? Seems to me that if I am 100 kms into the desert with deflated tires and 45 Celsius outside temp it would be good to know what the trans is doing. Or is the idiot light enough to tell me to stop and cool off? I have seen options for both scan gauge and dedicated gauge:
- dedicated gauge requires sensor installed in line (before cooler?)
- scangauge II plugs into ODBII connector and uses OE sensors

The ScanGauge seems to be the way to go - can someone confirm that ATF temp can be displayed?

One additional question - should I switch to synthetic ATF? If so, what is best brand?

Thanks, Rick.

 

[TexasCharley]

Hey TexasCharley- thanks for the bump. In the absence of responses, I did a forum search on trans cooler and came up with a bit of info, but still looking for help.

Came across this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-100-tranny-gone-2002-96k-help.445016/page-7

Which scares the crap out of me...

So, my LC is a Japan spec VX100 turbo diesel, and does not have the secondary trans cooler. I have heard it is the same trans as the V8 gas motor? So similar after market coolers should work?

Found this one: http://www.etrailer.com/Transmission-Coolers/Toyota/Land Cruiser/2001/D13611.html?vehicleid=2001759507

I know that the truck was previously used to pull a trailer in Ireland. It has been fully serviced and checked over by Toyota dealer in Ireland. Previous owner did a trip from Ireland to South Africa with no troubles. But I am nervous- crossing parts of Mauritania off-piste is part of our plan.

What is best option for cooler and temp gauge?

Thanks, Rick

Found this.....here......... Still looking in and out of Mud...

 

[hoser]

I believe your HDJ101 comes with the A442F transmission which is said to be the heavier duty transmission. All of those 2000 transmission threads you read about only apply to the A343F.

Also, the scan gauge to read transmission temperatures might not work for your JDM 101. It may have the OBD II plug but still not be compatible.

Here's a couple diagrams to help you with your install. The first is your 101 and the 2nd pic is the 100 with the transmission cooler. Take note of the inlet and outlets on the transmission side so you correctly plumb your cooler.

 

[catz]

I add-on a 3/4 x 10 x 6 Inch tube & fin design but it didn't workout for my A442F (rebuild @ 135K). I'm driving a Japanese HDJ101-RNPGZ relying on the radiator as the trans cooler which I used it for overlanding with extended travel from eight to twelve hours a day cruising between 70-90 mph on highway and hours of mostly steep incline & descent. Now I'm on 3/4 X 11-3/8 X 11 Inch Plate & Fin, so far so good after 40K.

 

[uHu]

The most important issue with the auto box of a pre june 2001 manuf. HDJ100, is to check if the converter has been changed.
Have a look here: http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...s-TQ-converter-fibre-bakerlite-washer-problem
Also check the link for the TSB in the linked thread.

I used my 2000 HDJ100 under the middle east sun for a year. The ATF pipe had a couple of loops in front of the radiator before it went into the bottom part of the main radiator. No problems there, but the driving was mainly highway and short desert crossings. My 2004 has a proper cooler like the one in the second drawing above here.

The point of running the ATF through the main radiator might be for getting the trans up to temp faster in the winter. It is also a possible source of trouble, if you get a leak between the two compartments, and get water into the trans.
So, since you are going to Africa, if you do add a proper cooler, maybe better to circumvent the main radiator for easier field repair and one less possibility for failure. Haven't heard of this type of radiator failure on the 100, but on the 90/120 it happens.

 

[AndersNO]

Hear hear!

Although don't be to worried about the converter. There is plenty of HDJ's with many many miles on the "bad" converter.
Mine's well past 300'km, with a lot of towing and offroad use. -Hard but sensible offroad use though, not jumping around crashing into rocks, trees and panda bears like an idiot.

 

[uHu]

Scangauge will not work. There is no OBD2, only M-OBD - t0yota's own take on it. There is a cheap adaptor you can use, and a program that runs under (older) windows.

The 442 is absolutely better with synthetic atf. The changes are a bit hard, and not too well "orchestrated", but better with new fluid.

 

[catz]

Scangauge will not work. There is no OBD2, only M-OBD - t0yota's own take on it. There is a cheap adaptor you can use, and a program that runs under (older) windows.

I am using a Mongoose Cable with Toyota Techstream

 

[r0cket]

Thanks folks! So, verified A442F trans on my HDJ101, which has 02/2001 build date. Don't know if torque converter is original or not. Is there an easy to tell if it has been replaced?

I noticed that the stock cooler is situated before the radiator. Assume this makes most sense?

So if ScanGauge won't work, is there a recommendation for separate analog gauge/sensor? Where to install sensor? I will have a Panasonic Toughbook with me and could potentially hook up the software and connector, but I don't intend to run it all the time, so not useful for ongoing monitoring, although might make sense to have this along for troubleshooting.

Thanks, Rick

 

[uHu]

Thanks folks! So, verified A442F trans on my HDJ101, which has 02/2001 build date. Don't know if torque converter is original or not. Is there an easy to tell if it has been replaced?

I noticed that the stock cooler is situated before the radiator. Assume this makes most sense?

So if ScanGauge won't work, is there a recommendation for separate analog gauge/sensor? Where to install sensor? I will have a Panasonic Toughbook with me and could potentially hook up the software and connector, but I don't intend to run it all the time, so not useful for ongoing monitoring, although might make sense to have this along for troubleshooting.

Thanks, Rick

The cable and software mentioned in the previous post will work on any old laptop. Will set you back 35 $ if you choose the cheaper option.

For the converter, the TSB mention this paint blob you can see if you separate the box from the engine. A couple of hours work if you have a lift and jack of suitable size and type, air tools and all the right bits ready. 3 x as long on the garage floor.
Otherwise, you can test drive the converter. The typical problem can be found this way: First bring it up to operating temperature. Drive along at a speed high enough for the converter to be in lock-up. Then press the brake in order to get a steady deceleration. When the speed is reduced to under 60 km/h the converter should let up the lock-up clutch, but it doesn't. So, as the speed approaches zero, the engine will stop as well (like with a manual gearbox), unless you move the gear lever out of drive, or press the accelerator again.
Typical real-life situation would be to approach a junction, or a roundabout (traffic circle for you), i.e. a planned reduction in speed, where you go straight from cruising to braking continuously.