ATF “Exchange”

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I was just quoted $289 from the dealer to do the fluid exchange. I wonder if this is a worthwhile expense considering the amount of effort and time it takes.
 
The dealer will likely only do one drain and refill, not a complete exchange. So $289 several times over a few thousand miles if you want most of the fluid exchanged
 
I guess if they do a full exchange using 12 qts or whatever it’s totally worth paying them. If they just drop the pan and refill with 4-4.5 qts it’s still a maybe. I’d have them re-install the exhaust piece with regular nuts and bolts that you can later remove to do the exchange yourself in the future (I couldn’t get my pan down all the way, and I couldn’t get the exhaust bolts off). But that’s only necessary if you want to drop the pan and replace the metal filter, which may not be necessary.

Given there’s a fill and drain plug, at the very least (if I didn’t want to drop the pan) I’d drain the pan and refill periodically until the atf gets clean. I’ve read only 2.5 qts comes out using this method, but it’d be really easy.
 
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Well I wish I had taken a picture of which combo of 24 mm 1/2 drive socket and breaker bar worked to get the fill bolt out. So far I haven’t been able to find the right combo...

Update:
I ground down a 24 mm socket for easier removal. Now I can fit my ratchet in with the socket - :clap:

EDIT: The tranny fill plug is easy to get a wrench on. I wasn’t being careful or diligent enough and I found out there is another 24mm fill plug nearby but it’s NOT for the tranny. It fills the transfer case (but it’s not the official fill plug for the TC either as far as I know, I wish I knew why it’s there). The correct plug is in front of the crossmember, between it and the tranny pan. Look to the rear passenger side of the tranny pan and then look above it. The wrong plug is behind the crossmember towards the back. Don’t use this one.
 
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Thanks for this thread guys. I’m planning on upgrading to the Nomad valve body from cruiser brothers soon. I think I’m just going to drain, drop the pan, swap VB, refill, then take to Toyota to flush the system clean. I know I can do the swap myself but the time, mess and disposal doesn’t sound fun.
 
For a full AT fluid flush, why not disconnect the tranny output line where it enters the radiator and add a drain tube to it to a collecting container, drain the 2.5 quarts from the tranny pan, attach a fill hose to the radiator inlet and add 2.5 quarts of new. Then it's just a matter of running the engine long enough to capture a couple of quarts in the collection pan, add 2 quarts in the fill line, and just keep repeating until it runs clear? No need to mess with the difficult to reach fill plug.
 
For a full AT fluid flush, why not disconnect the tranny output line where it enters the radiator and add a drain tube to it to a collecting container, drain the 2.5 quarts from the tranny pan, attach a fill hose to the radiator inlet and add 2.5 quarts of new. Then it's just a matter of running the engine long enough to capture a couple of quarts in the collection pan, add 2 quarts in the fill line, and just keep repeating until it runs clear? No need to mess with the difficult to reach fill plug.
I have been wondering this as well. Maybe at the end of this procedure, do the fluid level check at the proper temp?
 
I have been wondering this as well. Maybe at the end of this procedure, do the fluid level check at the proper temp?

Sure, or just be meticulous about measuring how much comes out.
 
For a full AT fluid flush, why not disconnect the tranny output line where it enters the radiator and add a drain tube to it to a collecting container, drain the 2.5 quarts from the tranny pan, attach a fill hose to the radiator inlet and add 2.5 quarts of new. Then it's just a matter of running the engine long enough to capture a couple of quarts in the collection pan, add 2 quarts in the fill line, and just keep repeating until it runs clear? No need to mess with the difficult to reach fill plug.
This is exactly what I did using a 1 gal lawn/garden sprayer from HD (THIS) to pump new fluid in. Took all of 30 minutes including the proper level check procedure.
 
Yeah I think I’ll go this route next time to do a full flush. I was trying to slowly change out my fluid over time since it has relatively high miles and I didn’t want to flush it right away, hence the drop the pan or just drain using the drain plug - and refill.

And I haven’t wanted to pull lines off because that’s always a PITA in my experience.
 
I just had a full ATF flush and fill done at a local Toyota dealer. They did a full 12 quarts. $299.
Was it shifting badly before the flush? How is it shifting now?

The reason I ask is because the service guy from a local Toyota dealership advised me not to do it if my truck wasnt shifting badly. He said if it had been done periodically before, then yes, do it. But, because I don't know if it has ever been done before, he said it could dislodge gunk and clog the valve body. Now I am in quandary as to whether or not I should do it
 
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That’s a great link - thanks for posting it.
 
Was it shifting badly before the flush? How is it shifting now?

The reason I ask is because the service guy from a local Toyota dealership advised me not to do it if my truck wasnt shifting badly. He said if it had been done periodically before, then yes, do it. But, because I don't know if it has ever been done before, he said it could dislodge gunk and clog the valve body. Now I am in quandary as to whether or not I should do it

There seemed to be a 4th gear hang up every now and then and wouldn’t drop into overdrive unless I shifted to 4 and back to D. I haven’t driven it enough yet to get a feel for the difference.

My independent BMW mechanic actually said the same thing about a brake flush - do it if done previously on the reg, but don’t if never been done because gunk could break loose and clog a caliper.
 

For those interested, I found this link also
 
This is on my list of things to do, so I really appreciate all the info.

Thing is, my truck has 170k on it and I doubt it's ever been done. I do get some shifting weirdness - every once in awhile it feels like the truck doesn't want to go into overdrive until the revs are above 4k. What is the general consensus about the risks of doing a full fluid replacement for the first time on a high-mile transmission?
 
it should be fine but dont quote me... I ended up doing drain/fill instead of full fluid exchange as the fill time of 1x 5qt jug (Valvoline Maxlife) takes forever so i cant imagine doing more than that!

My process..

Warm up car (if you want to shorten the AT TEMP process... but be warned the its hot under the truck).
Crack open Fill hole first (in case you cant remove the drain)
Crack open the Overflow (in case you cant remove the drain)
Remove Drain and drain fluid
Install drain with new crush washer
Remove Fill hole + Add long hose from hole to top of engine
Gravity feed the Maxlife (I try to get all 5 quarts in... if it doesnt take all 5 i would turn on the truck and itll make room for more fluid)
Once complete close up fill hole
Do the AT TEMP process and warm up the truck until the AT TEMP turns to solid
Remove overflow plug (with engine on).. let it drain until the fluid flutters then plug.
Turn off truck and tighten up everything to spec and done.
 

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