ARP head stud "kit" for the 1FZ-FE

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bryson

bryson

I do stuff.
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Forced to do a head gasket, and not wanting to ever do the job again, I was reading all over the interwebs trying to decide which head stud kit to buy. After researching, I wasn't convinced that there was an off-the-shelf kit that I'd be 100% happy with, so I called up and bought my studs/nuts/washers À la carte direct from ARP... It is basically the 2JZ kit with larger diameter washers - The washers in the 2JZ kit aren't as large in diameter as the stock ones, and I didn't like that.

I ordered:

(14) ATP4.500-1LB - studs - 4.5" long 11mm x 1.25 pitch on the bottom, 7/16" x 20 tpi on the top - $8.60 ea.

(14) 300-8303 - nuts - 7/16"x20 - $2.16 ea.

(14) 200-8707 - washers - 7/8" outside diameter, 7/16" inside diameter - $0.94 ea.

(1) 100-9908 - ARP lube - $1.97

(1) 912-0004 - thread cleaner (NOT a tap!) 11mm x 1.25 thread pitch - $60.48

NO cutting of studs to clear cam gears etc. - I bottomed the studs out in CLEAN holes and backed them out 2.5 turns each (still leaves ~2.5 times the stud diameter in thread depth in the block... More than sufficient per ARP.) After torquing the nuts down in three stages (25/50/80 lb/ft) in the proper sequence (per FSM) with the ARP lube I have one full thread protruding ABOVE the top of the nut.

I know there are tons of questions about which head studs are the "right" ones - but I believe that until ARP (or anybody else...) comes out with a 1FZ-FE specific kit (not likely to happen in the near future per ARP) this is the best solution. YMMV.

:cheers:
 
Thanks for the info.

Holy smokes, $60 for a thread cleaner? I understand you want to get them cleaned out good but is there a reason a normal tread chaser wouldn't work? I use one to clean out my spark plug holes every time I change those out, and that's in aluminum.
 
Bryson, would you be willing to rent me that thread chaser for my head job? Seriously.
SoCal



...via IH8MUD app
 
No reason at all that a normal chaser wouldn't work, but the 11mm x1.25 pitch is an oddball size, and the ARP brand is the only one I could find. But, I am sure you could just cut some reliefs in one of your stock head bolts and use that too.
 
Mighty690 said:
Bryson, would you be willing to rent me that thread chaser for my head job? Seriously.
SoCal



...via IH8MUD app
Click to expand...

Sure. Shoot me a PM.
 
bryson said:
No reason at all that a normal chaser wouldn't work, but the 11mm x1.25 pitch is an oddball size, and the ARP brand is the only one I could find. But, I am sure you could just cut some reliefs in one of your stock head bolts and use that too.
Click to expand...

Lol, okay I see now. You google 11mm X 1.25 thread chaser, and the first 10 hits start with "ARP".

Edit: Came across these too. Might be worth a try. You think they look long enough or do those holes go pretty deep?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AEX8DW/?tag=ihco-20
 
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Make sure you mark the top of the studs so you can see if they turn while you're doing your torque sequence. If they do it can throw off your clamping force
 
Rookie2 said:
Lol, okay I see now. You google 11mm X 1.25 thread chaser, and the first 10 hits start with "ARP".

Edit: Came across these too. Might be worth a try. You think they look long enough or do those holes go pretty deep?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AEX8DW/?tag=ihco-20
Click to expand...
I bought this one. Worked perfect. $16

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/04993051

8636942348_52894a7927_h.jpg
 
Rookie2 said:
Lol, okay I see now. You google 11mm X 1.25 thread chaser, and the first 10 hits start with "ARP".

Edit: Came across these too. Might be worth a try. You think they look long enough or do those holes go pretty deep?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AEX8DW/?tag=ihco-20
Click to expand...

They look long enough, but the correct 11mm x 1.25 size isn't part of that kit...

jcardona1 said:
I bought this one. Worked perfect. $16

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/04993051

8636942348_52894a7927_h.jpg
Click to expand...

That would (and obviously does) work, but I was told specifically by ARP NOT to use a tap. A tap is always going to remove some metal from the threads (as shown in your pic,) not just clean them - this makes the hole/threads larger, and therefore the stud doesn't fit as tight as it does in the factory hole. I don't see that being much of an issue, I'm just relaying what Al @ ARP told me when I mentioned using a tap. I'm sure an engineer-type could shed more light on this subject?:)
 
My pic doesn't have metal shavings, it's all gunk. I heard that too, but it doesn't make sense to me if it's threaded in the same 11mm x 1.25 thread pitch. Sounds like a thread chaser is just a really s***ty thread tap with dull edges.

Why not just take an old OEM head bolt and grind 4 slots into it? DIY thread chaser and you save yourself $60 :)
 
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You mentioned having "one full thread" protruding above the nut. While I'm sure this is fine generally you want at least two threads showing. I know I'm being anal but you mentioned only wanting to do the job once.
 
yotaslave said:
You mentioned having "one full thread" protruding above the nut. While I'm sure this is fine generally you want at least two threads showing. I know I'm being anal but you mentioned only wanting to do the job once.
Click to expand...

I understand where you are coming from, and the thought of it bothered me at first too. However, if you think about it, with something as critical as a head stud, if your nut backs off even 1/2 a thread you are probably already hosed. No extra clamping force comes from the unused threads... I can't think of a single possible scenario where the extra threads would matter, other than the warm fuzzy feeling in my guts. I also felt much better about it after the ARP rep assured and reassured me that it was pointless to worry about.:meh:
 
yotaslave said:
You mentioned having "one full thread" protruding above the nut. While I'm sure this is fine generally you want at least two threads showing. I know I'm being anal but you mentioned only wanting to do the job once.
Click to expand...

Not sure how that would affect anything either way. I don't remember how much nut thread you have to engage on a typical bolt in order to develop the full capacity of the bolt, but I know it's something less than the full depth of the nut.
 
might need to do this again on another LC i plan to buy

sub'd
 
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