Are my CV boots leaking and rear hub and bearing leaking? (2 Viewers)

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Had some intermittent brake sticking issues I took off the wheels to take a look and saw the following:

1. Are my CV boots leaking grease? I don't see a tear, but with the dirt build up I assume its oozing grease out:
brakes - 1.jpeg

brakes - 4.jpeg


2. Then I noticed that the rear driver side rotor has grease on the rim, only thing I can think of is that the hub and bearing seal maybe shot.
brakes - 2.jpeg

brakes - 3.jpeg


It looks like I made need some random sized sockets and a 12 or 20 ton press to change out the front boots and an axle puller for the rear, I may send to a shop to do the work if I need to get these done soon.

Thanks in advance!
 
The CV does appear to be seeping, but does not appear to yet be ripped. You may be able to just replace the clamp for now (a basic hose clamp can work for this).

When it does rip, CVs can easily be done at home. If you just replace the CV with a new or reman unit, you'll need (in addition to normal tools), a 35 mm axle nut and 200 ft/lb torque wrench. That's it. Popping the CV out of the front diff can be made easier with a slide hammer, which most auto parts stores will rent as a kit for free. Otherwise, you usually pry it out with big screwdrivers, but the slide hammer is quicker/easier. Once you've done it before you can usually swap out a CV in 30-60 minutes per side.

If you choose to reboot the CV instead, take all of the above and add a set of horseshoe washer pliers and CV boot clamp pliers. Rebooting is nominally more effort than just replacing the shaft, and will get you better boots than most non-OEM reman or new shafts, so my recommendation is usually to reboot them (with a Toyota OEM boot kit, or, if you are or will be lifted, and All Pro high-angle boot kit).
 
The CV does appear to be seeping, but does not appear to yet be ripped. You may be able to just replace the clamp for now (a basic hose clamp can work for this).

When it does rip, CVs can easily be done at home. If you just replace the CV with a new or reman unit, you'll need (in addition to normal tools), a 35 mm axle nut and 200 ft/lb torque wrench. That's it. Popping the CV out of the front diff can be made easier with a slide hammer, which most auto parts stores will rent as a kit for free. Otherwise, you usually pry it out with big screwdrivers, but the slide hammer is quicker/easier. Once you've done it before you can usually swap out a CV in 30-60 minutes per side.

If you choose to reboot the CV instead, take all of the above and add a set of horseshoe washer pliers and CV boot clamp pliers. Rebooting is nominally more effort than just replacing the shaft, and will get you better boots than most non-OEM reman or new shafts, so my recommendation is usually to reboot them (with a Toyota OEM boot kit, or, if you are or will be lifted, and All Pro high-angle boot kit).
I've ordered the rear hub bearings and misc seals/parts, picked up a 20-ton press from harbor freight, and ordered Duane's jig to press it all out and back in. Hope the parts come in a timely manner, and I can get this done in 2 days.

As for the CVs, with the GX at 210,XXX miles and assuming that they've never been replaced, is the CV a wear item? Or should I just replace the boots and grease with a OEM boot kit and call it a day?

Are these the horseshoe washer pilers?
1721180354013.png


It looks like the outboard boots use single ear style clamps where I can use a tools like this to tighten:
1721180695282.png


But the inboard boot clamps look different, is this the tool for the inboard clamps?
1721180823292.png



Thanks again to you both for the tips and advice.
 
I've never heard of a OEM CV wearing out. That being said, there is no way the original boots have lasted 210K miles. The CVs have either been replaced or re-booted - probably a couple of times.

The horseshoe clip pliers you posted are the same ones I have. Here are the CV boot pliers I have:

They are very similar to pex crimper and could interchange. I have not tried it yet but have noticed the similarity.
 
haha ok, I hope they're OEM CVs when I take them off!

Thanks for the CV boot pliers link.

The clamps do remind me of the PEX clamps too, although I've only used crimp rings and expansion sleeves.
 
Had some intermittent brake sticking issues I took off the wheels to take a look and saw the following:

1. Are my CV boots leaking grease? I don't see a tear, but with the dirt build up I assume its oozing grease out:
View attachment 3678205
View attachment 3678206

2. Then I noticed that the rear driver side rotor has grease on the rim, only thing I can think of is that the hub and bearing seal maybe shot.
View attachment 3678207
View attachment 3678208

It looks like I made need some random sized sockets and a 12 or 20 ton press to change out the front boots and an axle puller for the rear, I may send to a shop to do the work if I need to get these done soon.

Thanks in advance!
Mate, check the diff breather. If clogged it might be the reason for leaking rear diff! Been there...
 
Mate, check the diff breather. If clogged it might be the reason for leaking rear diff! Been there...
Thank you for the comment. Will look into this as well.

Looks like I may have to buy the union fitting and extend the breather higher.
 
Am in the middle of removing the CV for re-booting. Should I be replacing the oil seal that goes into the front diff?

It isn't leaking, but is this one of those things just to tackle "while you're there"?

Thanks!
1721521699946.png
 
I've never replaced the inner seal but nearly always replace the outer into the steering knuckle. It's often damaged when the CV us pulled. My local parts stores usually carry it. You can use the metal dust cover for the hub to tap it in (Toyota engineering!).
 
I've never replaced the inner seal but nearly always replace the outer into the steering knuckle. It's often damaged when the CV us pulled. My local parts stores usually carry it. You can use the metal dust cover for the hub to tap it in (Toyota engineering!).
thanks, will add this to the parts cannon
 
I can’t for the life of me figure out goes to get these CV clamps all the way shut.

The tools I bought don’t work for this style clamp.

This came with my reboot kit from Toyota.

Help would be immensely appreciated

IMG_3372.jpeg


IMG_3374.jpeg
 
Those are quite different than clamps on aftermarket boots, which I have been using. I am not sure which tool the OEM clamps need to utilize. You could also run to your parts store and get a pair of generic clamps for a few bucks that use the more normal crimp-style connector.
 
Thanks for the video.

I think at least one other clamp is made by Oetiker, but this one doesn't have the Oetiker name on it.

And while it does resemble some of the clamps on Oetiker's website I can't find this exact clamp.

it does have a mark of "E1209DF" which i can't find anything on.

I think its my mistake. Even though I tried to make sure to match up the clamps I took off with the clamps from the kit, i must have mixed them up. Judging by the diagrams on Partsouq, I had my inboard clamps backwards with my outboard clamps. I'm taking a break now but will get back to it later today or tomorrow.

Hope I didn't mangle up the clamp that bad. It looks like the overlapping side just slips underneath the protrusion. Always simpler than I make it out to be...

Thanks for the help guys.
 
9B5C8002-06F1-4D87-B5E3-61D7445122ED_1_201_a.jpeg

Done!

I mixed up the inner and outer boot clamps. The clamp I had trouble with was one of the easiest ones to put on, when i was actually doing it right.

One another note, the boot kit came with 2 types of greases:
90999-94187 - black grease in white tube (outer CV, 170g)
90999-94161 - amber/tan grease in a clear bottle (inner CV, 232g)

From what I understand the black grease goes to the OUTER CV and the amber/tan grease goes to the INNER CV.

The paperwork included with each tube/bottle had the amount in grams:
IMG_3376.jpeg


The FSM states that the boots have a grease capacity of:
outboard boot: 260-270g
inboard boot: 231-241g

The I didn't take apart the outboard joint so there was definitely old grease still left inside. But the total weight is anyone's guess.

I did take apart the inboard boot and cleaned it, so hopefully I got most of the grease out of the bottle and into the joint.

Note that I did NOT weigh the containers before and after (stupid me again).
 
I did bend parts of one of the inner dust shields as i was prying off the CV.

Should I just bend it back into place? It doesn't seem that consequential, but getting it off seems like a bear.
 
I wouldn't worry about it, a couple of mine are kind of bent but still just fine. You can fix it up a bit with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver if it's pretty bad.

Next time, if you get a slide hammer, you can pop the joint right out of the diff without messing up the inner dust shields.
 
I wouldn't worry about it, a couple of mine are kind of bent but still just fine. You can fix it up a bit with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver if it's pretty bad.

Next time, if you get a slide hammer, you can pop the joint right out of the diff without messing up the inner dust shields.
haha the, sad thing is I had a slide hammer!

It just wasn't coming out no matter how hard i tried to use it. Maybe I didn't have the snap ring/circlip lined up right? i tried rotating the CV around to different spots and no dice until I started prying with my bar.

I saw in the FSM to use the single hook attachment on the slide hammer, is that the right way?
 

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