I hear arb's have problems in the snow as in freezing up is this true???
ARB's and cold weather...
- Thread starter jkl72-40
- Start date
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Only if you have water in the airline.
Tips for cold weather ARB use:
1) Run a synthetic gear lube (about the only time you would want to)
2) Run a small inline water seperator
3) Hit a few squirts of WD40 in your air tank (it'll help keep the water from freezing).
For real cold (minus zero) extended uses, there are cold weather inner seals available for the old style U-ring. ARB's with the newer style Bonded seal should be fine.
Tips for cold weather ARB use:
1) Run a synthetic gear lube (about the only time you would want to)
2) Run a small inline water seperator
3) Hit a few squirts of WD40 in your air tank (it'll help keep the water from freezing).
For real cold (minus zero) extended uses, there are cold weather inner seals available for the old style U-ring. ARB's with the newer style Bonded seal should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #3
I hear wd40 has water in it, so maybe triflow would be better and how did this become a new thread???
- Thread starter
- #4
In thinking about this more.....comes more questions......
Only if you have water in the airline. water would come from the air compressor and condesation??
Tips for cold weather ARB use:
1) Run a synthetic gear lube (about the only time you would want to)
I run it all the time in my 82 toy truck is that ok??
2) Run a small inline water seperator
How do I do that?
3) Hit a few squirts of WD40 in your air tank (it'll help keep the water from freezing).
For real cold (minus zero) extended uses, there are cold weather inner seals available for the old style U-ring. ARB's with the newer style Bonded seal should be fine.
I installed mine in 95 so mine would be old style do they go bad?
Only if you have water in the airline. water would come from the air compressor and condesation??
Tips for cold weather ARB use:
1) Run a synthetic gear lube (about the only time you would want to)
I run it all the time in my 82 toy truck is that ok??
2) Run a small inline water seperator
How do I do that?
3) Hit a few squirts of WD40 in your air tank (it'll help keep the water from freezing).
For real cold (minus zero) extended uses, there are cold weather inner seals available for the old style U-ring. ARB's with the newer style Bonded seal should be fine.
I installed mine in 95 so mine would be old style do they go bad?
IMO, for the most part, Synthetics do not have all that much $ value in in a 4x4. Due to the possible constant contamination to the gear lube, you should be changing your diff oil often (obviously depending on off road usage). Since a good quality synthetic gear lube is $10.00+ a quart, it can become quite expensive to replace synthetic gear lube often. If you are using the cheap synthetics, it definitely isn't worth the cost, just run a good industrial based gear lube (like Chevron DELO gear lube), they will work as good or better than cheap syn. lubes for off road use and don't cost all that much more than cheapo rec. gear lube.
It could go inbetween the air tank and the solenoid or it could go right after the solenoid before the airline. Now this is for extreme cold. For regular snow runs, you should make sure the air tank does not have water in it and then add a few squirts of WD40.
As with all seals, eventually you need to replace them and I recommend to replace the Air Locker seals if you happen to have the diff apart for other work. However if you are not having problems and do not have the diff apart for another reason, I don't think you need to replace them just because they are old.
Now if you are prepping for extreme cold weather, then tear things apart and service everything. new seals, oils, grease etc.
WD40 website said:
Years ago I worked at a big truck supply shop and we sold gallons of WD40 to the truckers heading for the cold climates to use in their air brake systems. It kept the water from freezing up in their air brake air lines and kept the seals in the air valves lubricated.
Many of the commercially available air line de-icers have alcohol in their make up and tended to dry out the seals, neccesitating replacement of expensive air valves every spring.
- Thread starter
- #7
Cool thanks
During the mid '80s when I was a aviation turbine engine tech both Airresearch and P&W suddenly changed from using WD-40 to CRC-36 because they discovered that WD-40 is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and combines with water. The problem with that is that it is not necessarily an effective corrosion preventer. The benefit would be that by combining with water it prevents the water from freezing.
Here is the mini water separator I've used before for cold weather ARB set-ups.
Made by Speedaire, relabeled and resold by many industrial companies.
It is 4 1/2" tall and about 1" in diameter.
Made by Speedaire, relabeled and resold by many industrial companies.
It is 4 1/2" tall and about 1" in diameter.
I have ARBs front and rear installed new in 2007. Last year running at Tahoe which is not terribly cold (0-20) the rear would not lock. The compressor just kept pumping. I spoke to ARB and they said they didn not believe there were any issues at that temperature. We could not find a problem with the unit and it worked fine when warmer Spring came and I gave up. We will see this winter. I can assure you I had trouble in the cold last winter and never since while using them all summer.
I never said they didn't have cold weather issues.
How old is the Air Locker?
Do you know if you have the old style U-ring or the newer Bonded seal?
Did you do anything to limit icing before the trip?
You said the rear wouldn't lock up, was the front was working?
WD= Water displacer
40 = series number of formula till they got it right.
Saw it on tv...... "must be true". Some random fat orage cat eating lasange told me this.
- Thread starter
- #13
can you unplug the airline at the diff and run the compressor to clear the line? Does the line just press fit? I guess I could go look too..........
Unscrew the airline at the diff and hit the locker switch, that'll blow most of the moisture in the airline.
Then pull the air tank off the compressor and wipe it out with a clean rag and hit it with a squirt or three of WD40 (or your fav water displacement liquid).
Do not, I repeat, do not ever attempt to squirt WD into the intake. It will create all kinds of havoc with the DRY friction piston.
Then pull the air tank off the compressor and wipe it out with a clean rag and hit it with a squirt or three of WD40 (or your fav water displacement liquid).
Do not, I repeat, do not ever attempt to squirt WD into the intake. It will create all kinds of havoc with the DRY friction piston.
- Thread starter
- #15
Thank you very much!!
Great info here.....
thanks
thanks
ARB's have been tested and proven through many Icelandic and Arctic expeditions. The engineers even product test in the coldest of freezers when testing new technology.
- Thread starter
- #18
Yes this is great info any more? those Austrailians have some cool stuff for the 4wd world. When I was looking for a locker I didnt want the on street problems but wanted it when I needed them and I have been very pleased with the arb's
