ARB dual compressor under-hood switch? (1 Viewer)

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Search didn’t yield any results so I’m hoping for help here. First, I’ll say that electricity and wiring aren’t my thing, but the included wiring diagram seems to make things as simple as possible. So I’m willing to give it a shot before turning this over to a professional.

I instead the dual compressor and manifold on the Slee bracket this weekend. I will not be using lockers and have no reason to run the switch to the dash.

So I’m looking for recommendations on a switch that can be mounted (cleanly) under the hood that I can access when the hood is open. Any suggestions or installation tips are much appreciated.

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you should have been provided an ARB switch in the kit. This switch can go either in the dash or under the hood. The Sleet bracket/plate has a rectangular cutout for it which will be under left inlet filter (see pic below). It just snaps in. I did it this way to and will either move the switch or add another on in the dash when I add lockers. For now, the switch under the hood is fine for tire inflation. I just coiled up the excess harness wires and stuffed them in the corner. If you don't plan on ever adding the switch in the dash, you could cut them and clean that up but I'd just wouldn't as you may change your mind.

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you should have been provided an ARB switch in the kit. This switch can go either in the dash or under the hood. The Sleet bracket/plate has a rectangular cutout for it which will be under left inlet filter (see pic below). It just snaps in. I did it this way to and will either move the switch or add another on in the dash when I add lockers. For now, the switch under the hood is fine for tire inflation. I just coiled up the excess harness wires and stuffed them in the corner. If you don't plan on ever adding the switch in the dash, you could cut them and clean that up but I'd just wouldn't as you may change your mind.

View attachment 2857044
Thanks. I was just editing my original post to say that I thought more of a breaker style vs simply putting the included rocker switch somewhere under the hood would be ideal but that location definitely looks like it would be more than sufficient.

Is the install on that pretty simple? I’m good with wiring to batteries and switches, but when it comes to fuses I’m not too confident.

Appreciate the input!
 
Agreed, use the provided mount location on the bracket. The harness looks intimidating when all laid out but I promise it'll all make sense once you start putting it all together.
 
I too used the SLEE switch mounting provision on their bracket, since I don't have lockers yet. Switch fits perfectly on the left side of the bracket.

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I cut my harness down significantly to do exactly as you need. Unfortunately the provided documentation doesn’t really describe how to do it, but this image is available on Tacoma world. My wiring differed slightly but I did test the below and it would work.

Edit: I just remembered how mine was different.. the added black wire isn’t necessary. I think. Test it before closing everything up.

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I have the ARB switch in the location Tex68w showed and it works as intended. I just pruned the provided wiring harness to make the switch trigger the relay and got rid of all of the unused bits. Note, maybe different, since I have the single compressor, which has an external relay that I kept intact.
 
Thanks. I was just editing my original post to say that I thought more of a breaker style vs simply putting the included rocker switch somewhere under the hood would be ideal but that location definitely looks like it would be more than sufficient.

Is the install on that pretty simple? I’m good with wiring to batteries and switches, but when it comes to fuses I’m not too confident.

Appreciate the input!
It is pretty simple. The hardest part I recall was getting the wires into the fuse box to connect to the "add-a-fuse". I went in via the existing wire loom penetration on the left (looking from the hood) of the fuse box. Getting it pulled off was a bit "fiddly" but then it was just pushing the wire through. After that, just pick a spot to "add-a-fuse." The only trick with the add-a-fuse is making sure you put the original circuit fuse in the right slot and the smaller compressor relay fuse in the new accessory slot. The instructions for the add-a-fuse will tell you that. If you get it wrong all that will happen is that you may blow the original circuit fuse. In that case, flip it around.
 
It is pretty simple. The hardest part I recall was getting the wires into the fuse box to connect to the "add-a-fuse". I went in via the existing wire loom penetration on the left (looking from the hood) of the fuse box. Getting it pulled off was a bit "fiddly" but then it was just pushing the wire through. After that, just pick a spot to "add-a-fuse." The only trick with the add-a-fuse is making sure you put the original circuit fuse in the right slot and the smaller compressor relay fuse in the new accessory slot. The instructions for the add-a-fuse will tell you that. If you get it wrong all that will happen is that you may blow the original circuit fuse. In that case, flip it around.
All of this trouble (and generally disliking add-a-fuses) is why I took the +12V from where I spliced the heavy gauge wires to the compressor back together after shortening them.
 
Search didn’t yield any results so I’m hoping for help here. First, I’ll say that electricity and wiring aren’t my thing, but the included wiring diagram seems to make things as simple as possible. So I’m willing to give it a shot before turning this over to a professional.

I instead the dual compressor and manifold on the Slee bracket this weekend. I will not be using lockers and have no reason to run the switch to the dash.

So I’m looking for recommendations on a switch that can be mounted (cleanly) under the hood that I can access when the hood is open. Any suggestions or installation tips are much appreciated.

View attachment 2857034
If you ever decide to switch from inside the cab I installed a "Switch Pro" in the eyeglass storage of my 2021 200 series...It's wired to my ARB compressor as well as my rack lights. Look

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I had my compressor wired to the switchpros on my last 200 build, but I still ran it through an ARB switch under the compressor tray. It was nice to be able to turn the compressor on and off from under the hood when inflating tires.
 
Thanks everyone. After getting home and looking at the harnesses and instructions, the power portion seems pretty easy. I’ll research the switching portion more to get comfortable with what’s involved. That’s definitely not as simple.

The area I’m confused on are the following checked boxes. Im unclear on where they’re spliced in. But as they are power/light to the switch, I’m guessing it’s to the Supply Loom (that connects to the battery). Or are those the wires that go to the fuse box?

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You can just use two pins to pass 12v power through the switch to trigger the relay. The other wires are for switch backlighting.
 
Alright. Parts incoming (electrical connectors, multimeter, etc) so I’ll be tackling the electrical this weekend.

Any recommendations on a fuse/empty slot to power the switch? And yeah, threading the wire into the fuse box looks to be a PITA.
 
So looking at the fuse box and diagram, I’m guessing that any empty a lot that’s only powered on when the ignition is on should suffice?
 
So looking at the fuse box and diagram, I’m guessing that any empty a lot that’s only powered on when the ignition is on should suffice?
I initially thought to use an empty slot but couldn’t find note that had power when the ignition was on. If you can find one, that would be ideal. I didn’t really look that hard as I just wanted to get done and used the add a fuse on one of the ignition circuits. I don’t think all of the empty slots actually have power to them.
 
I initially thought to use an empty slot but couldn’t find note that had power when the ignition was on. If you can find one, that would be ideal. I didn’t really look that hard as I just wanted to get done and used the add a fuse on one of the ignition circuits. I don’t think all of the empty slots actually have power to them.
Thanks
 

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