Apex designs bolt on spindle gusset thoughts (15 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

llm

Joined
May 29, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
79
Location
Southern California

This has been getting some attention lately. thoughts on bolt on vs welded gussets. It’s way cheaper if you don’t know how to weld, but can diy this. i’m skeptical that the spindle will be stronger than welded but i guess this is better than stock if you just need a mild increase in strength.
 
My first thought was that they looked pretty nice, until I saw how the balljoint is attached. They want you to use a nylock nut instead of the OEM castle nut in order to allow the spindle gusset to fit over the upper ball joint stud. IMO, a nylock nut is not as good as a castle nut with a cotter pin for something critical like a upper ball joint. They rely on a small piece of plastic to prevent the nut from backing off instead of steel wire through the middle of the stud (changing it from a mechanical to friction retention system). So, they may prevent the spindle from getting bent, but would increase (at least slightly) the potential for the UBJ nut to back off and separate, which would cause far more damage to the rest of the rig (or a crash) compared to a bent spindle.

I'd personally get weld-on ones that retain the OEM-style ball joint nut with a cotter pin.
 
I concur. I was hopeful when first reading about those but they are not a suitable substitute.
 
  • Like
Reactions: llm
My first thought was that they looked pretty nice, until I saw how the balljoint is attached. They want you to use a nylock nut instead of the OEM castle nut in order to allow the spindle gusset to fit over the upper ball joint stud. IMO, a nylock nut is not as good as a castle nut with a cotter pin for something critical like a upper ball joint. They rely on a small piece of plastic to prevent the nut from backing off instead of steel wire through the middle of the stud (changing it from a mechanical to friction retention system). So, they may prevent the spindle from getting bent, but would increase (at least slightly) the potential for the UBJ nut to back off and separate, which would cause far more damage to the rest of the rig (or a crash) compared to a bent spindle.

I'd personally get weld-on ones that retain the OEM-style ball joint nut with a cotter pin.
Instructions state you should reuse your castle nut if you have a different thread pitch than factory. You've got Ironman UCA's on yours, right? You're probably safe. 😉
 
other than the removal of the castle nut- does the design seem legit? for the aerospace guys- would a nordlock washer be sufficient to replace castle nut and cotter pin?
 
other than the removal of the castle nut- does the design seem legit? for the aerospace guys- would a nordlock washer be sufficient to replace castle nut and cotter pin?
We use both...but each has their application. Where it is the only fastener, castle nut and cotter pin is pretty standard.
 
Instructions state you should reuse your castle nut if you have a different thread pitch than factory. You've got Ironman UCA's on yours, right? You're probably safe. 😉
Yes, I have Ironman UCAs with 555 UBJs in them. And a box of cotter pins as my rig has quite a few on it...
 
other than the removal of the castle nut- does the design seem legit? for the aerospace guys- would a nordlock washer be sufficient to replace castle nut and cotter pin?
Are you wheeling/desert racing hard enough where you would need the spindle gussets? IMO I think there are many other parts in the rig that would break before you bent a forged steel spindle. And, if a spindle is bent, it should be very easy to find a good used one at a salvage yard, as well as being easy to replace.

I'll eventually put a set of spindle gussets on my rig, but not until after I've reinforced the rear shock mounts and lower control arm hangers, as well as the front LCA cam tabs and frame mount brackets. When I eventually add them, I'll use the weld-on gussets which are around $100. You could always pull the spindles out and take them to a welding shop to have them burned in.
 
Are you wheeling/desert racing hard enough where you would need the spindle gussets? IMO I think there are many other parts in the rig that would break before you bent a forged steel spindle. And, if a spindle is bent, it should be very easy to find a good used one at a salvage yard, as well as being easy to replace.

I'll eventually put a set of spindle gussets on my rig, but not until after I've reinforced the rear shock mounts and lower control arm hangers, as well as the front LCA cam tabs and frame mount brackets. When I eventually add them, I'll use the weld-on gussets which are around $100. You could always pull the spindles out and take them to a welding shop to have them burned in.
honestly no but i just had an itch for tinkering and it’s relatively affordable. i will run 33s at largest but most of our dirt driving is washboard roads going 30-50mph, sometimes for 100+ miles per day.
 
honestly no but i just had an itch for tinkering and it’s relatively affordable. i will run 33s at largest but most of our dirt driving is washboard roads going 30-50mph, sometimes for 100+ miles per day. sometimes it’s rough enough to completely smash the stock skids. no intentional jumps but a few accidental ones.
 
honestly no but i just had an itch for tinkering and it’s relatively affordable. i will run 33s at largest but most of our dirt driving is washboard roads going 30-50mph, sometimes for 100+ miles per day.
You'll be fine without them. ;)
 
Never knew there was an issue with our spindles?
 
Never knew there was an issue with our spindles?
34s and 35s can bend spindles, especially with hard wheeling and extreme negative offset.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
My first thought was that they looked pretty nice, until I saw how the balljoint is attached. They want you to use a nylock nut instead of the OEM castle nut in order to allow the spindle gusset to fit over the upper ball joint stud. IMO, a nylock nut is not as good as a castle nut with a cotter pin for something critical like a upper ball joint. They rely on a small piece of plastic to prevent the nut from backing off instead of steel wire through the middle of the stud (changing it from a mechanical to friction retention system). So, they may prevent the spindle from getting bent, but would increase (at least slightly) the potential for the UBJ nut to back off and separate, which would cause far more damage to the rest of the rig (or a crash) compared to a bent spindle.

I'd personally get weld-on ones that retain the OEM-style ball joint nut with a cotter pin.
I'm sure there are others, but Total Chaos UCAs use a nylock nut to secure the UBJ...I have never personally had one loosen up and I have never read about it happening either. I'll definitely agree that a castle nut and cotter pin is #1 for security, but that isn't saying that the use of a nylock nut is inherently bad.
 
I'm sure there are others, but Total Chaos UCAs use a nylock nut to secure the UBJ...I have never personally had one loosen up and I have never read about it happening either. I'll definitely agree that a castle nut and cotter pin is #1 for security, but that isn't saying that the use of a nylock nut is inherently bad.
JBA UCAs also use a nylock nut for retention.

I've never had a nylock nut back off either, and I've used them in a lot of different vehicle and non-vehicle applications. I suppose what's unique about the UBJs is the consequences of the nut backing off. At the minimum, it would cause a lot of damage to the rig (CV, tie rod end, sway bar, ABS wires, probably the steering knuckle too), at the maximum it could cause a failure serious crash. So, I'd not personally run one in that application, and for folks who do run them, I'd check the tightness frequently.
 
JBA UCAs also use a nylock nut for retention.

I've never had a nylock nut back off either, and I've used them in a lot of different vehicle and non-vehicle applications. I suppose what's unique about the UBJs is the consequences of the nut backing off. At the minimum, it would cause a lot of damage to the rig (CV, tie rod end, sway bar, ABS wires, probably the steering knuckle too), at the maximum it could cause a failure serious crash. So, I'd not personally run one in that application, and for folks who do run them, I'd check the tightness frequently.
The new ones do. The ones I had (07 model) were the JBA increased angle version but matched the Moog K6292 in a pinch. Back then they had a castle nut. The new ones use a nylock and no longer mention the flexibility of using the 6292 in an emergency.

That they were compatible with a common product available at any parts store was a plus. When they strayed from that model they joined the others who required a proprietary ball joint, subsequently loosing a customer.
 
The new ones do. The ones I had (07 model) were the JBA increased angle version but matched the Moog K6292 in a pinch. Back then they had a castle nut. The new ones use a nylock and no longer mention the flexibility of using the 6292 in an emergency.

That they were compatible with a common product available at any parts store was a plus. When they strayed from that model they joined the others who required a proprietary ball joint, subsequently loosing a customer.
That's one of the reasons I went with Ironman UCAs. They use a Tacoma ball joint and OE-sized bushings. Of course they all got recalled last year due to tears in boots of the Chinese UBJs they were using. But, Ironman did send me a brand new set of UCAs for free - which I promptly sold on eBay . Then I pressed in a new set of 555 joints in my old UCAs, got the rig aligned (it needed an alignment anyway), and sent Ironman an invoice for my time and the alignment. They paid me for both :).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom