Anyone tow a Fleetwood/Coleman E2 | E3 with their 100?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Couple of things to add. We had a 12' Rockwood pop-up. We pulled it fine with our 98LC. That was with 5 mtn bikes on the trailer, and 2 canoes on the LC. Went from MO out to Pinedale, WY and back, no probs. Pulled easy, we had been using a 94LC prior to that. I thought the V8 did a lot better than the old in line 6 over the passes.

FYI, there is a pop-up near me here in St Louis for sale that is similar to those described here. It looks like it is set up for off road or rougher road use. It has a big platform in front for hauling quads etc.. The only difference in it and the ones I see here is, it is a dual axle model.. I only mention it in case someone is looking for one..

I'm reading all the trailer towing threads I can find, because we just went from a 98 to a 04 LC, we are now going to have to start pulling our airstream with the LC.. (19') I'm hoping it will pull it alright.
 
We have a '07 E1 that we pull with an '00 LX470. The tongue weight + a loaded vehicle seem borderline for the AHC. I removed the battery box from the tongue and placed a sealed battery behind the trailer axle underneath one of the seats. That helped a lot.

For towing I use a straight bar (no drop). With the 33" tires on the vehicle that results in a perfectly level trailer.

I did purchase some extra LX rims. I'd like to mount those on the trailer in the future. The trailer suspension will need to be raised, but there seems to be a factory provision for this. There is an extra hole in the leaf-spring mounting bracket. Curious if anyone else has attempted this.
 
The E line has huge tongue weights. FWIW, I think we have settled on a Hybrid that will be towed by our non-AHC 2004, but it also has big tongue weight. I have OME868 springs on my 80 (back when we used it exclusively FULLY laden with crap and 2200 RTT 5 people for 5-6 weeks) which I may switch over to the 100. The 100 already has 864s to carry our crap, so with several extra hundred lbs of tongue I think 868s may do well.

What springs y'all using on these heavier trailers?
 
Stay away from the Coleman's with ABS material roofs, made mainly in the late 90's and early 00's. Google this & you'll find numerous issues with the roofs cracking, thereby providing you with a natural interior shower when it rains. ;-)

Someone else asked about why Starcrafts are spoke so highly of....I can't speak for the newer ones, but I see 70's & 80's Starcraft tent trailers being pulled all the time. My dad had a '72 Starcraft we used until the mid-90's.

I'd love to find a newer "high wall" model that's been lifted....however the search continues.
 
I'm putting my 2010 Coleman E3 up for sale as my wife and I are moving out of the country. We bought it about 6 months ago and used it 3 times, so it is basically new. Remaining balance is around $14,950 +/-; you can take over the payments of $160.83/month and it's yours. Yearly insurance is super cheap and its a really cool trailer. Located in Solvang, CA 93463. Here's the info:


The 2010 Coleman® Evolution E3 is a heavy-duty off-road pop-up camper with slide-out dinette, huge front deck, and shower/cassette toilet and interior and exterior showers. Has swing-level galley (not flip-over galley), a stereo system with CD player and iPod hookup with interior and exterior speakers, 40 gallon fresh water tank, a deep bowl porcelain sink, high rating (800 pounds) on front deck, more substantial side rails for the front deck which double as ramps for bringing motorcycles and quads onto the deck, and electric flush cassette commode. It also has 15" tires, a reinforced frame, bay window, furnace with thermostat and nice interior heater, large hot water heater, dual propane tanks, 3-way refrigerator which can run off propane or 12V or 110v electric lots of storage, etc. Important-Has actual 15" knobby, alloy spare tire (not the donut 15" tire). Has large water tank (35 gallon), high pressure outside stove, and interior step for rear bed.

The Coleman® E3 is a great off-road pop-up camper with Very nicely equipped and practically new.

Extras – Comes with an unused 42 Gallon Barker waste tank - http://www.amazon.com/Barker-Manufa...-Along/dp/B000OR18BE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top , deep cycle battery with case, propane gauge, all water and sewer hookups (never used) and all warranties.

Pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/ortonc...&authkey=Gv1sRgCPGS0vnHlp2gMw&feat=directlink
 
Last edited:
Solvang is a great little town in California!

Looking for a Starcraft, What was the last year they stopped making their off road version?
 
Old thread, I know, that I've been following since day one. I am in the market to pick up a trailer ASAP. The KKs are way too expensive for what I am willing to pay, the ATs too small. There is a Coleman E3 available locally. It's a 2009 model that has "been used twice". The guy wants 11000 for it. Anyone think this is an acceptable price for a nearly new 2009? After rereading the thread, it looks like people are fairly satisfied with them and they Tow OK. I'm not looking for an expedition trailer or something I can take 40000 miles, just something spacious that I can use for the many staycations my family takes. We want to extend our camping season and provide room for our two year olds. Brief input on used pricing would be appreciated.
 
I have a Jayco Baja that is the size of the E3 and it tows fine. Trailer brakes & controller are essential though. I looked at the E3 for a long time before buying they Jayco. We finally bought the Jayco because we were worried about parts availability in the event we needed replacements. Coleman no longer builds the campers, but I have heard just recently that another manufacturer has purchased the Evolution name and is producing parts. $11k isn't bad if it's been well taken care of. Make sure you check the fabric around the edges of the pull-outs (especially the dinet) for rips/tears. Also check for water damage as there are plastic lines everywhere in these things. We really enjoy ours, so good luck!
 
Old thread, I know, that I've been following since day one. I am in the market to pick up a trailer ASAP. The KKs are way too expensive for what I am willing to pay, the ATs too small. There is a Coleman E3 available locally. It's a 2009 model that has "been used twice". The guy wants 11000 for it. Anyone think this is an acceptable price for a nearly new 2009? After rereading the thread, it looks like people are fairly satisfied with them and they Tow OK. I'm not looking for an expedition trailer or something I can take 40000 miles, just something spacious that I can use for the many staycations my family takes. We want to extend our camping season and provide room for our two year olds. Brief input on used pricing would be appreciated.

My E3 is a 2009 that I bought in November of last year for $8900. I think I got a good deal, but maybe that will help with your negotiations?

A couple of tips:

1) make sure to carry extra fuses (especially the 20 amp)
2) make sure to get the guy to show you how everything works before you buy it. Some of the processes are not intuitive. Pay attention. Don't make your first camp-out be an arrival in the dark.
3) If you are going to load the deck, I highly recommend getting airbags.
4) Plan on setting up and taking down with two people (at least until you become pro). There are somethings that are hard to do correctly with only two hands.

Make sure that you have the mindset that setup and takedown are a pain in the ass. If you anticipate that, then it won't be so bad. If you think you just flip a switch and its ready to go, you'll be frustrated, especially when having to set it up in the dark with the kids screaming that they are cold or hungry etc.

I don't mean to sound negative, because we are really enjoying ours (taking it to the lone star round up tomorrow). It is definately spacious when set up, and much more comfortable than our old tent camping.
 
This is an old thread but thought I would some comments from our experiences. We have an '07 Starcraft 34RT 'off road' tent trailer that we tow with our '97 S/C'd 80. Its been on trips from CA to CO thru the mtn passes along the way as well as many trips to Lake Tahoe and the Central Sierra's.

The trailer is very large for a tent trailer - has the 'high wall' with the matching taller more RV-like appliances as well as wet bath with shower and 6-gal toilet, furnace w thermostat, AC on the roof, 4-burner stove and oven, microwave, built in inverter and 2 - propane tanks. Fridg is tall and actually quite useable for a tent trailer - works on AC/DC and propane. It has a push out - the dinette slides out and seats 4 men easily. Has king beds at both ends and a 1-quad front deck on the tongue. I installed a lot of storage stuff so its heavier than stock now. GVWR on these is large for a tent trailer at 5k GVWR IIRC. There is an even larger Starcraft that someone mentioned in the RT series - the 36RT. Its double axle permits a much larger deck out front and 2 quads but the GVWR gets quite large. The 34 RT and 36RT shared nearly the same interior build out except that the 36RT had a hard-wall shower / wet bath - it would fold down in on itself and was not too bad if that was important to you.

Our 34RT has a 35 gal fresh water tank but no gray water tank -- I fabricated up the plumbing to dump gray water in to one of those 30 gal blue tanks on wheels -- a whole lot easier than buckets! (IIRC, the '08 or '09 came with a 35 gal gray water tank after they re-arranged the shower location. The clearance for these trailers is quite good but they have done hardly any work to protect the tanks under the floor except for the natural protection of frame rails -- ie. no skid plates - everything is exposed.

All in all, the 80 tows it quite well. It does slow down quickly on the hi mtn passes but no more so than my bro in law w their stock Suburban and their std Jayco tent trailer. I do have the load stabilizers on our hitch -- makes a huge difference to be able to tx some of that wt forward on the 80. Trailer brakes as well. Gas mileage does not seem to be affected much when I tow - maybe a 1/2 mpg less on certain trips. (We have a scan gauge). With the setup, it easily runs at 65 mph with mild grades in w OD off. Shifts down to 2nd on the passes, tho - I work hard to keep it at 2500 rpm or so and watch the temp gauges. (We have done all the usual upgrades to the cooling system that one does for the S/C'd 80's). Per the advice given elsewhere, I do like to tow with the OD off to give the AT a break at the expense of gas mileage.

The stock clearance on these things is very nice - its got 16" rims. Shock absorber on ea side and the stock 'lift' place it at a nice tow height relative to our 4.5" lift on the 80. I have never attempted hard core trails with it but several forest roads, etc. Its big enough to avoid the narrow trails for sure!

Build quality -- in many ways its a well engineered trailer for and American RV company. But, the folks building the Starcrafts of this vintage seemed to have a lot of QC issues - most of which I fixed in the first year and some have been dealt with over time. I have found in the lower-priced trailer RV community (sub $30k) that this is common but I think I may have had a few more issues than most. I certainly repaired far far too many things that were due to very poor union workmanship! -- one screw holding the oven in-place, hoses cut so short and installed so that they were kinked closed, wood work that would cause any normal cabinet guy to blush, etc.... all fresh from the factory. It is strange tho to find great workmanship in certain areas and none in others - wonder what happened to the QC guys at these plants in Indiana...

Engineering -- my 2 cents is its nice for what they are and realizing they are not a Kimberley from OZ! I chose the StarCraft over the Coleman E3 primarily because of what seemed to be a beefier frame design, better roof lift mechanism, 4" mattresses on king beds, the high wall sides and appliances (!), what seemed to be a better one-pc aluminum-laminate roof and fiberglass laminated walls and a bit better set of specs on capacities. The inside height is really tall -- a 6' 6" guy would have no problem with this trailer! On other hand, since everything is so tall on a 34RT, it makes it that much harder to set it up for us average ht guys! It is absolutely huge inside - I frequently have visitors comment that their big motorhome is smaller inside than our tent trailer... When these things open up, it does feel large. Have camped many times w 4-6 adults in it and it works well w the push out dinette.

In retrospect, no issues from my pt of view in towing these larger tent trailers at all behind an S/C'd 80 or a 100 IF you have trailer brakes, load stabilizer hitch and a well-maintained rig. A lot of miles on the CA and CO mtn passes under my belt. Now, IF I had a big Excursion as a tow rig with a big turbo diesel in it, it would be that much easier.

Ours is likely to be sold - moving on to something that requires less work to set up. As someone mentioned, for small families traveling during the day and camping for the nt, the set up / tear down cycle really wears you out! For 2 to 10 day stays, tho, and its just fine. It just seems no matter how hard we try and no matter how much storage space I fabricate in to the frame, it takes time to break camp - always shuffling stuff from one place to the other. These new tent trailers seem to have no outside-accessed storage bays anymore! Told its because they had too many warranty claims on leaking compartments. Its great to have the big decks on the fronts of these trailers but you have to clear enuf of the deck just to put the beds up and place the poles! I miss the outside compartments that my parents old Jayco had - two doors on opposite sides let you get at stuff rom either side - nice. And, how about a fridg that you can access when the trailer is collapsed! Its hard to find a floor plan in tent trailers that does that and its really easy to use the hallways to load all your gear even if you have a deck out front -- ours has lots of cabinet space for a tent trailer but you still have all your clothes and gear... guess it depends on what you want.

I have also found that these or maybe any camping trailer needs to be maintained and inspected and fixed -- screws loosen up, staples on panels come loose and on and on. You have to take the time to stay on top of it. You can make a lot of improvements if you are good at that stuff and make it easier for yourself.

Also was surprised to see the maintenance schedule call out the need to tear down and re-grease your axles every year! I finally did on mine after the 3rd year and found out why - the grease they use breaks down. Noticed on the Chinese-made bearings the signs of scoring already. So, sourced some American made bearings and did the rebuild. Bought a spare set of bearings and seals for the next time - always takes time to get trailer parts!

Tires on these things are critical to watch and inspect. The Chinese made 16" tires on ours de-laminated in less than ~15k miles and less than 3 yrs old even with tire covers on them! Still arguing with the tire mfg to get the warranty claim settled on them. Went with non-Chinese tires instead and have worked well since.

I did seriously consider back then on buying a std tent trailer and then doing a lift on it. Looked at a lot of frame designs and talked to guys about it whenever I could at RV shows, CG's etc. I found that all the 'regular' tent trailer I managed to see under were made with very light duty frames, axles and suspensions! It almost scares you to see what they put under em! Where Starcraft seemed to do better w their RT's is in their frames and axles - at least compared to the US domestic mfg's. So, I started pricing not just the cost of a lift, but a new larger axle with shocks and a leaf spring and brakes, etc. and then add in the cost of either replacing the std tent trailer frame with larger cross-section channel or working hard to reinforce what was there, plus beef up the tongue and add the extras that were not part of a std TT and I realized I had more than paid for the Starcraft RT series of trailer. You have to remember that a std tent trailer comes with the short wimpy trailer jacks and when you lift it the little leveling jacks no longer touch the ground. So more $ to buy and install (4) new heavier jacks - and the list goes on from there. Again - that was based on my set of circumstances of buying a new std tent trailer vs buying a new offroad tent trailer and having to pay for some of the fabrication work to be done where I lacked the tools and shop space -- your situation may be completely different. But, its more involved than it looks at first.

We are glad we bought it - have had it since '09 - worked reasonably well. BUT there are a lot of Cons and Pros - and did I say Con's .... Have to decide what works for your family and rig. Hope this helps others -- wished I could have found have found this kind of discussion back in '05 when we were starting our search!

Sorry for the long post -- Good luck!
 
Hey everyone, bumping this old thread for some input. I've been reading/searching threads all morning on this subject. I am pulling a Fleetwood E2 around and am looking to upgrade the rear springs. A little lift is wanted, but we also use this vehicle for DD duties and don't carry a ton of weight so comfort there would be preferable. From what I'm reading, maybe OME 865 and an airbag setup would be a good option? I'm really just trying to get rid of the sag when towing, but don't want a huge rake to the vehicle when it's unloaded. I've already cranked the stock tBars up and have newer Bilstein shocks. Any input is appreciated.
 
Pulled a 30' Coachman Catalina for about 350 miles with my 99, (4 speed). Camper weighs approximately 6,200 lbs. Wouldn't want to pull that much all the time but the Land Cruiser did just fine expect for long step hills. It felt secure and never had issues with swaying. I have OME 865's and the trailer didn't even drop the rear when connected. Used a load leveling hitch also.

Wind can be your enemy.

Pulled it back home two weeks ago with a 2014 F-150 and have to say the LC did a better job. Still, it's too much weight for a Land Cruiser. Just let it work at it's own pace. Trying to keep us with traffic will destroy the engine and transmission.

If you are planning to pull something under 4,500 lbs. the Land Cruiser will do very well.

Must have electric brakes. Pulling is one thing but stopping can be a serious and complicated issue.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom