Anyone thought about building a rear storage/drawer system out of 80/20?

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Nov 17, 2014
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Mesa, Az and Fenton, Mi
Too expensive? Trying to determine whether i should invest the time in solid works to mock something up.
 
I like the idea of the extruded aluminum . Some of the wood boxes can get pretty heavy
 
I'm going to build a drawer system in the near future for the 4Runner...nominally I'd like a composite board not sure where to acquire those but price may govern that idea. Otherwise I'm going to go with Baltic Birch.
 
I have been considering trying .080" 5052 aluminum sheet for my next drawer system build. It bends much easier than 16ga galvanized steel and is much lighter.
 
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There got to be a better reason than with or without 0-60 times.:steer:
 
Just out of curiosity.

I've taken it in and out of the truck a couple of times by myself, and it ain't easy.

Plus, a lot of people think about putting in a drawer system. There's a lot of debate about weight, materials, drawer slides, etc. There are several things I would do different a second time around. Now, if anybody asks, I can tell them exactly.
 
I built my box out of 3/4 and 1/2 inch baltic birch. I also used heavy duty drawer slides. They add a significant amount of weight, not to mention cost. I also coated the entire outside of the box with bedliner.

Things I might change:
1. adjust some of the material with more consideration given to weight. Didn't really consider this when I built it with my Dad.
2. possibly go without drawer slides. I think there's been several guys who've used plastic runners that work about as well. This would also make the drawers removable. There is no quick release on drawer slides, so they are permanently mounted to the box.
3. I would split the box down the middle. That way I could only mount one side, if I needed the extra room.
4. I wouldn't coat the bottom of the box in bedliner definitely. Makes it a pain to pull in and out of the truck with the carpet. Also, it's been several years since I built the box, and the coating still off-gasses. I could really do without the smell. Don't know if I would use carpet, I do like the fact that stuff doesn't slide around on top of the box.

Those are just a few things. Overall, I'm super happy with the box. My Puma is mounted to it. The cubby holes on the sides fit my Specter water jugs perfectly (this wasn't planned).
 
Makes sense
I built my box out of 3/4 and 1/2 inch baltic birch. I also used heavy duty drawer slides. They add a significant amount of weight, not to mention cost. I also coated the entire outside of the box with bedliner.

Things I might change:
1. adjust some of the material with more consideration given to weight. Didn't really consider this when I built it with my Dad.
2. possibly go without drawer slides. I think there's been several guys who've used plastic runners that work about as well. This would also make the drawers removable. There is no quick release on drawer slides, so they are permanently mounted to the box.
3. I would split the box down the middle. That way I could only mount one side, if I needed the extra room.
4. I wouldn't coat the bottom of the box in bedliner definitely. Makes it a pain to pull in and out of the truck with the carpet. Also, it's been several years since I built the box, and the coating still off-gasses. I could really do without the smell. Don't know if I would use carpet, I do like the fact that stuff doesn't slide around on top of the box.

Those are just a few things. Overall, I'm super happy with the box. My Puma is mounted to it. The cubby holes on the sides fit my Specter water jugs perfectly (this wasn't planned).

I think HDPE as a slide under the drawer has worked well. I know that you don't need either. My drawer has neither and is easy enough to open and close but has enough surface tension that it doesn't fall out when parked on inclines. It's not the prettiest but it just plain works.
 
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