Anyone know 80 series clutch pedals ?

[ALX4X4]

Hey all,
Maybe not something our USA friends can help with as they largely got all autos, poor sods, but recently my cluch pedal has been sticking to the floor after a gearshift and not springing back to normal height.
What's weird is the slave cylinder is returning to its normal position when eyeballed, so it's not sticking in the fork/slave/throwout area, but for some reason the pedal is playing dead.

I've already put in a new slave cylinder, genuine, and am putting in an aftermarket master cylinder tonight, but on pulling my old master out, it still has plenty of action left in it to push the pedal back up..... The stupid spring assit DOWN pedal thing seem to be working fine, it's like the system doesn't have enough fight to push the pedal back up against the spring. Jeez, the pedal really slams to the floor with no slave cylinder on it once it goes over-centre....

Anyway, here's hoping the new master fixes it, but any other ideas especially as the slave is returning to where it should be ???

TIA from Australia.

 

[CycloSteve]

Air in the line? I would imagine the FSM has a test procedure and setup to ensure that the spring tension is not greater than the hydraulic tension. I happen to have a RHD one of these sitting on my bench, and a LHD one heading over from Japan at the moment, and agree that the spring tension is mad on them...could lose a finger if not careful when disconnected from the master cylinder.

 

[ALX4X4]

This is true. No, it's bled properly and is intermittent which makes it extra annoying...

 

[mtntoys]

Is this something that progressively got worse over time? Was the clutch or any other component replaced before this issue started? Is the clutch engaging when the pedal is still on the floor? If the slave cylinder is moving and the pedal is staying still on the floor, there is slop somewhere between the two...leaky slave or master, air in the line, sloppy pedal/loose bolts.

The 80 series clutch pedal springs were too stiff for the factory clutch on my 1HZ/R151 so I removed the springs. If I was aggressive letting out the pedal the hydraulic pressure could overcome the springs but if I let it out slow (starting from a stop), it would stick part way up.

 

[Wraith]

Hopefully the new am m/c won't have the accumulator in the bottom and should solve the 'intermittent' problem.
Good luck,
Mac

 

[ALX4X4]

So here they are, side by side, old and new (non genuine). Geniune was nearly $300 and a 4 week wait from Japan vs. $86 for a Bosch-boxed, but TRW branded one off the shelf at Supercheap. Don't get me wrong, I like using OEM where possible for engineered service parts, but 4 weeks sealed the deal. To me the only difference is the OEM looks to have a damper of some sort in the clevis as there's a rubber isolator that the TRW one doesn't have. Otherwise, direct bolt in last night. No accumulator on mine either. I couldn't swap clevis's either so just went with the one that came with the TRW MC

Anyway, problem solved, clutch pedal fires back like a champion. I guess it was just the MC getting lazy with age. A rebuild kit might have achieved the same thing, but after 20 years a new one doesn't hurt. Especially after I excavated the dregs of rubbish out of the old slave cylinder I replaced with an OEM one last week.

Anyway, all good, and if anyone suffers a similar problem, might be a lazy MC.
Good thing is my clutch pick up point is a lot easire to modulate now too.

Cheers.