Anyone install shorter tailgate cables on a 200?

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elcie200

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Getting ready to go car camping w/ the fam. Gotta haul a couple of kids bikes.
2013 lc w/ stock rear bumper and hitch receiver.
  • Picked up a Kuat Pivot so I could access the cargo area w/ the bikes on a rack behind the vehicle (roof racks are nogo)
Test fit the Pivot... When I lower the tailgate, there's just barely 1mm of clearance between the swing-out and tailgate. If I press down on the tailgate, it makes contact with the swingout (at the top of the pivot point).

Thought about putting foam b/t the tailgate and pivot; getting a drop hitch (something to lower the hitch receiver).
Currently considering getting shorter tailgate cables (current length minus 1" or something like that) so the tailgate can't drop down as far. Will that work? Anything to be aware of/consider (need to check if I can still access the spare tire dealio)?

Seems pretty straight forward, but better to tap the great minds of Mud :)

thanks!
-ryan
 
1990790


$20 at Walmart
 
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He only needs a centimeter or two extra...not a massive 4” drop. And pretty sure he doesn’t have a 1” receiver. :)

The need for cable shortening is a common issue. I have the same problem. Need my cable to be SLIGHTLY shorter...but only slightly.
 
He only needs a centimeter or two extra...not a massive 4” drop. And pretty sure he doesn’t have a 1” receiver. :)

The need for cable shortening is a common issue. I have the same problem. Need my cable to be SLIGHTLY shorter...but only slightly.

Has anyone found a way to shorten the cable with it being a common problem?
 
What ever, just the first thing that popped up. There are all sorts of sizes out there.
 
He only needs a centimeter or two extra...not a massive 4” drop. And pretty sure he doesn’t have a 1” receiver. :)

The need for cable shortening is a common issue. I have the same problem. Need my cable to be SLIGHTLY shorter...but only slightly.

Exactly. Quick Google says the LC cable is 13.3". Searching 12" tailgate cables, shows Tacoma approx 12"... And other generic cables
 
He only needs a centimeter or two extra...not a massive 4” drop. And pretty sure he doesn’t have a 1” receiver. :)

The need for cable shortening is a common issue. I have the same problem. Need my cable to be SLIGHTLY shorter...but only slightly.
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There, happier?
 
If anyone figures out how to shorten the cable slightly, I’ll be interested as well...
 
I just had this same issue. Because I needed a solution quickly, I returned the Kuat and went with the Yakima version. I don’t like it as much because it isn’t as burly and it sticks out farther, but the overall compromise works for me because it clears the tailgate and makes dealing with loaded bikes much easier.
 
What will work like a charm, and I use one, is a 2" to 2" extender. It essentially puts the mounting point of the rack a couple inches further out than that of the oem hitch pin, allowing full use of hatch and tailgate. This is ftw.

1991150


Amazon product ASIN B071J12YFX
 
I was just looking at this, need an extension for hitch carrier that doesn't allow tail gate to fully seat.

Harbor freight has soo many options for cheap, extension, drops raises, add a step with extension is what i am going for.


more option:

 
It is trivial to shorten the cable. Less than $3 of wire cable and crimps at the local marine supply. The hardest part is cutting the wire cable. Remember the cable loops will elongate under weight . . .
 
I also would like to have just *slightly* shorter cables on the drop-down tailgate. I've found that my lower gate will hit the top of the RLC bumper if I let it drop on it's own, or if I put significant weight on it. I have a quarter-sized dent now on the left side. :mad:

IMG_20190531_212719.jpg


I have a cable swaging/crimping tool, looks like a set of bolt cutters but has crimping jaws in it. I've used it to make custom security cables for our computers, the loops are very strong. Maybe I'll give this a try. With plastic coated cable and liberal use of heat shrink, they can actually look pretty nice. But you really can't make them much shorter, as it will conflict with the spare tire winching access.
 
Aluminum crimps are hammer powered. Reuse plastic cover on the stock cables

40976D4F-1D82-4B70-9A14-1F6EBE0E9B2E.jpeg
 
There are 2 things at play here. The cable length and the hinge bump stop. We’ve found that new cables make a big difference on earlier or higher mileage trucks.

I’ve also found that having custom cables made is pretty darn expensive. If you shorten the cable a 1/4” is about the correct amount (I wouldn’t shorten it more than this especially if you have drawers or have your spare under your truck.

The factory cables work in conjunction with the hinge stop (under the flippy plastic doohickey). If you make or order a shorter cable we’ve estimated that a cable with an MBS of 2200lbs+ is ideal. This allows for minimal stretch and creep over time and is adequate if a big fella (or gal) hops up on your tailgate.

We’ve also experimented with an 8mm/m8 shoulder bolt and offset bushing in the eyelet. This is good for shortening the cable by about 2mm.

If you have an older truck, start with fresh cables and see where that gets you.

Cheers!

Edit: had "longer" which should have been shorter
 
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To get the right size. Crimp a loop. Feed the wire thru the crimp to make the second loop, but don’t crimp. Pull it to the size required. Secure with locking pliers. Sit on the tailgate. Adjust as necessary. Mark and crimp.
 
Get a 1UP USA bike rack and forget all the rest. And you won't be concerned with "too long of cables" or "not a beefy enough rack"

The 1UP also offers the best departure angle since it sits inclined instead of flat and you can get a single bike option for when you want to be forever alone.
 

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