Anyone care to speculate?

[Nospell]

I'm still waiting on parts. They are not due in until mid/end next week. Everything is on backorder.

The parts total about USD1500 for the radiator, alternator, and cv. Surprisingly, the alternator is the most expensive of the bunch. I didn't push the warranty issue very hard because i don't have a good explanation for the random damage, other than sh#$ went wrong. My main concern is that the dealer thinks it's ok to work on the truck when dirty as hell.

I'm at one dealer that is difficult to deal with, but close, and ordered parts from another.

FYI, Champion Toyota in Houston gives discounts to LC and Supra owners. They have an LC club. Discounts range from 15-30% off, and they will rush order stuff for cheep. Great parts department, very helpful. On the complete order they are probably saving me $300-400 as compared to other dealers.

If I get mine back before the 300s come out I'll post the total install cost.

Combat....Thanks again for the support.

 

[rhllc]

Nospell,

Sorry for the sideshow in your thread. I'm probably a bit scarred by the troll battles of the past and have been fighting an antibiotic resistant infection for the last couple weeks, putting me in a surly mood. Please don't take my comments personally as I don't know you at all well enough to make personal comments. (If you still turn out to be a troll, I will haunt you for the rest of your life)

It looks like the alternators on these trucks are relatively low and alternators in general don't like dirty water. But I'd have to think that the water was bit deeper than you thought or your LCs movement through the water set up a bow wave that made it deeper. Add in grit and things get ugly for the alternator fast. I've waded through water at least a foot deep and probably nearly as far with no issues in my LX570. But then it was clean springtime mountain run-off.

Again, speculating, I'd guess the CV joint breaking is completely independent of the fan/radiator/electrical stuff. You really had a bad trip. Everyone looks for mechanical reasons to explain a CV or axle breaking. But in my experience, it always comes down to throttle position. No matter what the traction controll system, lockers, no lockers, etc. A CV won't break without some amount of throttle at the wrong time.

For the record, I've taken out an alternator in water once, and have broken more axles and CV joints then I am able to remember.

I have made many, many, stupid decisions and driving mistakes. Nothing else is more important than the driver mod and 90% of the time turning around and avoiding an obstacle is an option. Again, nothing personal, that is just the way it is.

Glad you got back to civilization safely. Hope you get your LC back on the road sooner rather than later.

 

[rhllc]

I don't understand the fan or radiator at all. Only time I've seen a fan go into the radiator and damage it was on modded vehicles, with larger than stock engines, where the fan was too close to the radiator when the frame was flexed. I've never see one taken out in wading. Would actually be interested if you had any idea of what went on with the fan/radiator or more details on the damage?

 

[alaskacruiser]

I can't find any. I spent hours and hours going through the archives last night and this morning. I really, really wanted to prove to you that I belong posting on this board.

rhllc- "belong posting on this board"? Wow. Bad sarcasm or no, you're taking things a bit personally, methinks.

WTF? You are asking me to prove a stawman statement you derived from my original post in this thread.

Your statement 'Your posts have all the earmarks of an elaborate "200 Series aren't tough because I broke mine in minor off-roading" troll' clearly implies this type of post is a common occurrence on this forum, does it not? Not sure how that's a "stawman" (or even a "strawman"). I merely asked for an example outside of pagemaster. Heck, if you take issue with this, I'd even take a "200 fake wheeling breakage" example. After stating you have no problem being asked for proof and then providing an irrelevant example, you now seem unwilling or unable to come up with a single one, even after spending hours and hours searching.

Additionally you are attempting to play word games with the subjective term "frequently". Not sure where you think this is going, but I can assure you my e-peen is not suffering along the way.

It's not that complicated- no "word games" or "e-peens" required! It's very simple, really: I asked for an example, and you have not provided one. Whatever we disagree on here, can we agree that the subjective term "frequently" means at least one?

Just out curiousity, do you own a 200 Series alaskacruiser?

Just out of curiosity, how is this relevant? That's a real question, BTW, and not rhetorical. I posted for several reasons, including a technical one: to find out if your kneejerk reaction was backed up by anecdotal evidence in the form of forum posts one way or the other.

I will answer (even though I'm pretty sure you can read my sig): I do not own a 200, but I am looking at them, talking with people who own them, and learning about them (including on this forum) and so I have started visiting this forum more often. Gotta say I'm not liking the witch hunt / kangaroo court vibe I'm seeing so far, though, and from what I can see, I'm not the only one. I've been on these forums and their predecessor a long time and, in trying to learn about the pros/cons of a model, I try to see through the fog of those people who are extremely defensive about anything even possibly being "weak/comparatively weaker" on their rig (read: Shotts, possibly yourself?). I also try to see through the fog of those who only look to cut down a particular model (read: Shotts, pagemaster), as I've found the truth usually lies somewhere in between.

Finally, don't you think it's a bit hypocritical to ask the OP for proof of his statements, while behaving in a defensive manner (and, more importantly, not providing proof) when asked to provide proof of yours? Again, not a rhetorical question.

 

[sptsdn]

Gotta say I'm not liking the witch hunt / kangaroo court vibe I'm seeing so far, though, and from what I can see, I'm not the only one.

It's unfortunate that 'pagemaster' and his alter ego '2004Cruiser' has trolled so much here he's made some members a bit paranoid, including myself at times. Add to that the other member who was adamant that the 200-series brakes were "under-designed" when it appeared isolated to his vehicle (and most likely his driving habits were to blame). In his eyes, all Land Cruiser brakes are defective. That would be like me claiming that because my HVAC blower motor failed, all LC blower motors are weak and under-designed.

Anyway, I'm not sure why this forum attracts the trolls it does but it would be nice if we could try and ease back on the "proof of ownership, pictures, insurance card required prior to posting" in as many threads as it does. No offense intended, but those accusations get almost as old as the trolls do.

 

[Combat Chuck]

This thread needs some moderator intervention.

 

[OGBeno]

This thread needs some moderator intervention.

Mod is pretty much not on MUD anymore.

 

[brussum]

This thread needs some moderator intervention.

It just requires the grown ups who participate to act accordingly and stop the pointless "pagemaster" allegations. Let's focus on the thread topic and quit the back and forth nonsense.

 

[Nospell]

rhllc, thanks for the post above, and no hard feelings.

I agree with your assessment of the damage..... You play, you pay. I tried to be easy on the gas, but those that know me well would say "yea right." Easy on the gas for me means not trying to crack the floorboard with the peddle.

Next time I'll try be easier on the gas and I'm going for a front locker before I go out next.

From the infrequency of the failure I don't think its fair to say that this is a design flaw, but i will keep the tools on hand to remove the shaft in the future.

It's strange that those with the CV failure have experienced it multiple times.

I wonder if this could be caused by an Atrac glitch more so than a CV weakness.

Does anyone know if the atrac software can be reflashed/updated?

 

[bjowett]

I've heard of a few Tundras losing their alternators in a similar manner. A decent splash shield over the alternator, or possibly a cool air intake for the unit, would likely solve many of those failures.

Carl from JT and I had a brief conversation about HD front CV axles for the 200 Series. He mentioned some of the armored Land Cruiser outfitters were looking for them.

I have a brand new 200 series radiator, bought for R&D, no longer needed.

 

[OGBeno]

I've heard of a few Tundras losing their alternators in a similar manner. A decent splash shield over the alternator, or possibly a cool air intake for the unit, would likely solve many of those failures.

Problem with the 2UZ and 3UR engines is that the alternators are placed very low compared to the 1FZ/2F/3F-E. The possibility of water/dirt ingress is significantly higher on the newer engines. And these newer alternators are seriously pricey....especially the 5.7 which doesn't have a reman as of yet--new only at this time.

 

[Combat Chuck]

Problem with the 2UZ and 3UR engines is that the alternators are placed very low compared to the 1FZ/2F/3F-E. The possibility of water/dirt ingress is significantly higher on the newer engines. And these newer alternators are seriously pricey....especially the 5.7 which doesn't have a reman as of yet--new only at this time.

The location's the same for the 22R, which strikes me as an awfully Chrysler-esque thing to so.

 

[tempestv8]

I have a theory that the CVs are working outside their normal operating angles when a 200 Series is lifted.

I have yet to hear of an unlifted 200 Series break a CV. All the cases that I've heard of on 200 Series forums are of vehicles which are fitted with a suspension lift.

I am guess that the longer shocks fitted to a lifted 200 Series allows the front wishbones to droop to a lower maximum extension, which is outside the safe working angle for a CV.

Eventually the CV is weakened and then it doesn't take much to finish it off. So the damage may have been done long before the actual CV failure.

 

[Nospell]

I finally got my car back after more than 35 days in the shop. Most of the time was spent waiting on parts. Total labor was less than 7 hours.

These are the only parts i could salvage. As seen, the tulip where the CV enters the diff exploded. I think this caused a lot of collateral damage such as a punctured radiator. The large ball bearings in the tulip were no where to be found.

The CV job was only about USD800, but the total bill was near USD4k.

I plan to return to the seen of the crime soon and see if my LC is up to the challenge for a second time.

 

[Combat Chuck]

Holy cow!

 

[tempestv8]

Does anyone know the stock front strut max extended length? The ARB sports (9005) are 613mm when fully extended.

Hi Nospell,

I have a spare set of factory shocks which I am happy to measure the fully extended length when I get home tonight. Where are you taking the measurements - at the extremities?

My shocks are off an Australian spec vehicle, which does not come fitted with AHC, but presumably this is the case with yours too. My vehicle is a turbo diesel but I am guessing that this wouldn't mean a different shock length.

Will get back to you with the measurement, as per your request.

 

[tempestv8]

I measured the factory shock, and my measurements must surely be taken from very different points to how you measured the ARB shock absorber.

The fully extended front shock absorber was 700mm from the top of the eyelet to the bottom most part of the shock.

 

[Nospell]

Sorry, but my shock length measurments were quoted to me by ARB, not measured.

From talking to others who have removed their stock shocks, I don't think downward travel is limited by shock length in the front.

Hence, I still don't believe that my lift contributed to the problem. Yes, a lift may cause CV wear over a long time due to altered drive angles, but I don't believe this to cause an abrupt failure.

I'm convinced that my problem was caused by a combination of to much Atrac intervention and to much gas.

So far, the best solution is to lock the front end, my locker is on order.

The next question is: where is the best place to mount the compressor? I'v seen pics on Mud of both right and left engine bay locations?