Before I forget the little stuff of the install, the bumper isn’t built to fit with the tow package / trans cooler (pretty sure it’s the trans cooler, but mebbe the PS cooler, I was mission driven & wasn’t out to fiddle with figuring stuff out) - you have to remove the bars that hold it & redrill the holes for the mount arm bolts back all of 3/8”-1/2” so you don’t crush the fins and have it constantly rubbing the bumper.
I’ll edit this post with a downward pic, it’ll show how mine is clearanced now due to that 1/2” backspace I did (rebolting them is tricky when drilled, so you know).
Pic showing what I’m saying, the shot is from RS angled to center, shows the fit between the body & bumper w/ that backset:
Vs the stock space the factory cooler gap is:
The center horizontal sheetmetal that attach the plastic “rivots” for the plastic bumperskin is still out, it needs clearancing for the top center of the Zeon solenoid. I’ll update all pics when it has been adjusted as I plan to use it to support the power cables for the winch.
Also, the vertical center rib you all have in your rigs is gone Johnson with the winch. No big loss.
There are also 2 continuation pieces that sit under each headlight that are for bumperskin support, but now worthless for my application - like I said, only piece going back will be that center tin that mounts to the arms under inner corner of headlights once it’s a functional piece for power cable support - also that piece has 2 little rubber bumperstops for the grill, so in order to keep my grill good & well supported / not vibrating around, I’m definitely going to be reworking that center tin piece since it will serve 2 purposes for me.
Also, expect to need to sideload the crap out of the bumper to center it - mine was almost 3/4” off & getting it within 1/16” of centered took a come-along with a strap to a vehicle we had parked in the next bay to get the mechanical advantage.
This wasn’t a slip-on like Slee, ARB, Hanna Quality, or IPOR (only other brands I’ve installed/been roped into helping install. I’ve done Luke’s too, but that’s not pre-fab like the prior mentioned (or wasn’t that I had).
Yes, I should have prefit the bumper prior to powdercoat, but I was focused on my boat work, so the bumper was a side project. It sat powdercoated for a couple weeks while the boat got priority.
If I was to buy again & install, I’d buy it raw (like I did) - but dry fit it so you know you won’t be doing the install like I was, fighting to fit it when hindsite I could have hogged a few holes to make it painless / less painful. At least if you decide to powdercoat or pay to bedliner it.
You will need to strip the front end down to this point, so you know what all comes off to do this bumper: