Any tips on winding/installing new winch line?

[CardinalFJ60]

I should receive my new Synth winch line from Steve at SouthEast Overland (GREAT to work with BTW!) this week. Any tips on winding a new winch line? (fj60, M10000, ARB front bumper)

 

[LFD2037]

It's recommended to apply 50lbs. of resistance when wrapping new winch line. That's for cable but I'm sure it's good for syn. too. Southeast Overland will chime in I'm sure. They seem real knowledgeable & helpful.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Is there a requirement to stretch synthetic, as there is with wire rope? My thought is no, but I'm asking anyways.

 

[ChaseTruck]

I winched the truck up to a light post in the parking lot, with a click or so on the e-brake.
I tried to get the lower layers tightly packed so that the line can't slip between them towards the drum when under real load.
My truck, unfortunately, has remained a mall crawler, so no real-world winching has been necessary.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Manufacturer's spec is 5% of ABS. For a 3/8" line that = 980 lbs of force. To do that you can anchor yourself to a tree, rock, etc, and winch your vehicle in, applying brakes as necessary to tightly spool the line - similar to what ChaseTruck said.

There isn't a requirement to "stretch" syn line, but it does need to be spooled on properly (read: tightly and evenly) to get the full amount of line on and keep outer layers from pinching down in between lower layers.

When spooling syn line you will not always have an anchor point to apply that nearly 1,000 lbs of force. What I do in that case is wear gloves, stand back from the fairlead at least 5 feet (more is better for safety), apply pressure to the line with your hands and add additional pressure if possibly by making the line rub against your fairlead if needed. Get the wraps on there tight and even.

Let me know if you have any other questions and thanks CardinalFJ60 for your business!!!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

I'd like to add that you should be careful, and not try to winch-in synthetic line fast when it is not under a load.

Synthetic winch line likes to double-back on itself when winching-in while not under a load. It creates a rat's nest really quick if you are not paying attention. Warn M8274 electric winches are especially bad in this regard since they move cable/rope so fast when not under a load.

Regards,

Alan

 

[Southeast Overland]

Hi all,

I'd like to add that you should be careful, and not try to winch-in synthetic line fast when it is not under a load.

Synthetic winch line likes to double-back on itself when winching-in while not under a load. It creates a rat's nest really quick if you are not paying attention. Warn M8274 electric winches are especially bad in this regard since they move cable/rope so fast when not under a load.

Regards,

Alan

You shouldn't have any issues when spooling in syn line without load of a rats nest forming. If you don't have load on the line there shouldn't be any pressure/force on the line you are spooling in to enable it to become tangled or split underlying layers. If you have underlying wraps that are loose and then you winch in under heavy load an outer layer can split an inner layer and cause the line to double back on itself - same deal with cable but it doesn't happen as easily.

 

[CardinalFJ60]

Thanks for the replies! this really helps. on a side note, I strongly endorse SouthEast Overland. I had a ton of questions and Steve guided me to the best solution.

Next question...IIRC, the line was wrapped so the hook end lays on the top of the drum, not underneath. does that seem right? (I say that, 'cuz the way the winch lays in the bumper the line wrapped under would line up with the fairlead better.)

 

[ChaseTruck]

No, doesn't sound right. Don't know how the brake works on an M10000, but on on the winches I've used you can't flip things and run the cable backwards onto the drum.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks for the replies! this really helps. on a side note, I strongly endorse SouthEast Overland. I had a ton of questions and Steve guided me to the best solution.

Next question...IIRC, the line was wrapped so the hook end lays on the top of the drum, not underneath. does that seem right? (I say that, 'cuz the way the winch lays in the bumper the line wrapped under would line up with the fairlead better.)

Thanks for the kind words.

The line should come straight through your bumper and onto the drum - I'd bet from the bottom. If the line comes through your bumper/fairlead and then pulls a 90 degree turn upward to go over the drum it will be at a hard angle which is no bueno and could put the line into contact with the bumper opening and cut the line.

No, doesn't sound right. Don't know how the brake works on an M10000, but on on the winches I've used you can't flip things and run the cable backwards onto the drum.

What can happen is if you are spooling out (from the bottom of the drum) and your line has become pinched through and underline layer, it will circle around the front of the drum and then onto the top, which while your drum is technically "spooling out" the line is now "spooling in." A good reason to keep your distance from a winch and keep your fingers on your hand.

 

[george_tlc]

Thanks for the replies! this really helps. on a side note, I strongly endorse SouthEast Overland. I had a ton of questions and Steve guided me to the best solution.

Next question...IIRC, the line was wrapped so the hook end lays on the top of the drum, not underneath. does that seem right? (I say that, 'cuz the way the winch lays in the bumper the line wrapped under would line up with the fairlead better.)

Well, if you unspooled all the way to the end of the rope AND continued, then the rope would start to spool in but now the rope would lay over the top.... not good.... The control switch would then operate backwards and the winch brake activation would be backwards too.

cheers,
george.