any tips for doing front steering damper?

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i’m going to do a front steering damper if the weather is 100 degrees or under one day this week. any tips aside from spraying pb blaster on the two bolts a day ahead of time? do i need to lift the thing first?!
in addition to checking here i will also check the FSM.
normally i would be too intimidated to ask this question but i just did a fuel filter down here and did not ask about this repair. and somehow i missed the memo to crack the gas tank so it was less safe than i would like. so i kind of wish i had strapped on a pair and asked here about it first.
anyway i am sure that opens this up to a truck ton of noob lumps asking a s*** question but it beats doing it wrong and spending all day out there doing it!
 
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The pickle fork and a BFH are your friends here, use a light touch until you can't avoid it, but you've been doing right by juicing it. Should be a quick job, but my tech makes such things look quick and easy when I might take all day.
 
I did mine while replacing some other stuff so I had the radiator, shroud and fan out. I sprayed it the day before with Corrosion-X. I hit the bolt a few times from above with a 3 lb mini sledge and the pin popped right out.
 
The pickle fork and a BFH are your friends here, use a light touch until you can't avoid it, but you've been doing right by juicing it. Should be a quick job, but my tech makes such things look quick and easy when I might take all day.
hi gents,
thanks a lot.
so knock two pins out by hitting them from above? take it all out and put the new one in?
also i went through the FSM truce in suspension and axle chapter. i don’t see it in the table of contents or in any off the illustrations.
am i missing something?

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so anyone see anything here in terms of knocking out the pins? or happen to know the order of install for the hardware on this dobinson kit? or see anything else i might be missing?
i am really hoping to “measure truce and cut once” on this one...

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Check pages SR-39 to SR-42. They use a SST, but not strictly necessary. Also, they remove the bracket from the old and install it to the new damper before bolting to the relay rod.
 
Check pages SR-39 to SR-42. They use a SST, but not strictly necessary. Also, they remove the bracket from the old and install it to the new damper before bolting to the relay rod.
THANK YOU. i guess the reason i was not finding that was strictly user error. obvious now...

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Use a pickle fork....or an SST if you have one.
 
If you spent the silly $400 on that damper, you should have just got a new mount from Toyota, 4572160090, it's like $25 (if it's still available).

Otherwise, here is tip to make life easy when using the "SST" or likes: Remove the two bolts from the frame, rotate and flip (obviously while still attached to the original damper) and re-install. This will give you bottom access to the mounting bolt and tapered stud, or "pin" as you called it. Don't follow the FSM and expect to have an easy time trying to remove the tapered stud from the mount while mounted in a vice.
 
Pickle fork should be last resort as they damage things. Use a proper balljoint or tie-rod end tool if you have one. I've been using tools out of an OTC # 6295 front-end toolset recently with the work I'm doing on the front end of my 80. But there are generic pitman/tie-rod/balljoint tools around just as good.
 
If you spent the silly $400 on that damper, you should have just got a new mount from Toyota, 4572160090, it's like $25 (if it's still available).

Otherwise, here is tip to make life easy when using the "SST" or likes: Remove the two bolts from the frame, rotate and flip (obviously while still attached to the original damper) and re-install. This will give you bottom access to the mounting bolt and tapered stud, or "pin" as you called it. Don't follow the FSM and expect to have an easy time trying to remove the tapered stud from the mount while mounted in a vice.

thanks man. i am trying to follow along and for some reason i thought this would be easy. i do have a vice but it is not really mounted to anything except a block of wood.
i bought this thing because i was told it would be good for another job.
i just looked it up and realized i don’t have a pickle fork but obviously if it a necessary tool for wrenching on the 80 i will get one too.
can i also just ask if these two bolts get removed and also how i flip - to presumably pull out some bolts i guess?
i will also check the fiche for that part.
THANK YOU

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Pickle fork should be last resort as they damage things. Use a proper balljoint or tie-rod end tool if you have one. I've been using tools out of an OTC # 6295 front-end toolset recently with the work I'm doing on the front end of my 80. But there are generic pitman/tie-rod/balljoint tools around just as good.
thanks dude. i bought this one this afternoon so i guess i skip the pickle fork? it’s a bit of a tall order learning the terminology...

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Pickle fork should be last resort as they damage things. Use a proper balljoint or tie-rod end tool if you have one. I've been using tools out of an OTC # 6295 front-end toolset recently with the work I'm doing on the front end of my 80. But there are generic pitman/tie-rod/balljoint tools around just as good.
THANKS. here is a link to those: Amazon product ASIN B0002SRH7O
 
I won't disagree with Craig's caution about the pickle fork, which is why I said go easy on it. However, unless you're planning on reusing that long in tooth OEM damper, beating it up a little to get it off the truck won't make any difference.
 
I won't disagree with Craig's caution about the pickle fork, which is why I said go easy on it. However, unless you're planning on reusing that long in tooth OEM damper, beating it up a little to get it off the truck won't make any difference.
thanks for your help man.
between learning the terms, learning to wrench on the 80 and trying to fit in at a new high school it is a challenge!
 
If you spent the silly $400 on that damper, you should have just got a new mount from Toyota, 4572160090, it's like $25 (if it's still available).

Otherwise, here is tip to make life easy when using the "SST" or likes: Remove the two bolts from the frame, rotate and flip (obviously while still attached to the original damper) and re-install. This will give you bottom access to the mounting bolt and tapered stud, or "pin" as you called it. Don't follow the FSM and expect to have an easy time trying to remove the tapered stud from the mount while mounted in a vice.
hi benjamin.
THANKS a TON for this.
can i please just ask you about this part? i can't get the toyodiy site to pull it up. i was going to post some pics but maybe someone can message me what i can and can't post?
anyway, i did a search for that part number and nothing comes up.
then i went to powertrain and chassis and i am not sure which section it should be in.
can you help?
THANK YOU
 
thanks dude. i bought this one this afternoon so i guess i skip the pickle fork? it’s a bit of a tall order learning the terminology...

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This and a couple wrenches is all you need. 15 minute job. Don’t use the tie rod tool on the truck, pull the whole thing off, then use the tool. Then reassembly is the reverse.
 
When I took the original OEM one off, I sprayed Deep Creep on the pins for a day or two then used a 42" Dewalt "wrecking bar" between the frame and damper, popped right out.
 
This and a couple wrenches is all you need. 15 minute job. Don’t use the tie rod tool on the truck, pull the whole thing off, then use the tool. Then reassembly is the reverse.
thanks man. i found a video. but this dobinson stuff does not come with very good instructions.
do you happen to know if this end goes DS i assume? and it just bolts up with a - well like a big washer and then the helical spring washer and then a nut?

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