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Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Threads
4
Messages
15
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
To make a long story short I bought an 84 FJ60 that had been sitting for two years with fuel in the tank. The person who sold it too me had told me that it ran fine and I drove it around some and it worked great. Well once I actually got it on the open road and into the higher speeds it would start to sputter and then it would not respond to the pressure I was putting on the gas peddle. Well, I dropped the gas tank and it was filled with rusty crap. I changed the fuel pick up line, added a new fuel level sender and had the tank boiled out. I put in a new fuel pump and filter. I got the crusier started and it runs great when in idle and driving around the block. When I get it in third gear with the throttle halfway down it starts to sputter and then dies. The fuel system from the pump back is essentially new. I have no idea on how to work on the carb and am hesitant to tinker with it. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Maybe the FPR? Oh and I can only get it started if I take the air filter off and spray some carb cleaner inside the carb. :bang:
 
I don't know much about carbs, unless you can ingest them, but it sounds to me like the problem lies there. May have some of the crap lodged in there.
 
Is there a inline fuel filter? I don't know where it would be on a 60 but I'm sure someone here could tell you. The carb may be gummed up garbage in the needle and seat so the fuel won't pass through. I would start with trying to find the filter first.
thanks
Don
 
Check the new filter first then make sure you have pressure at the carb. If that's all good... CARB-U-RA-TOR...
 
When the rig sit the fuel in the carb evaporates leaving varnish/goo/debris that can plug it up. My first attempt is the "dollar two ninety eight" overhaul.:hillbilly: It goes something like this:

First if you have no idea on carbs, look at the pix, in the first one there are two bolts near the green connector, they are jet access plugs, we are going to use one as a drain plug. Just above the plugs is a window that allows you to see the fuel level. In the second pic there are two brass tubes sticking up in the air horn. Also get a couple of cans of spray carb cleaner.

This is risky business! Fuel and other nasty chemicals will be released, possible super fund cleanup site, fire, explosion risk, wear safety glasses, secure the woman and children and a bus load of nuns may die!:eek: Now that's out of the way, do this on a cold motor, take precautions with sparks, no smoking etc.

Remove the air cleaner assembly, then locate and remove one of the drain plugs. A small amount of fuel will come out, on the plug or stuck to the carb body maybe be a seal washer, be sure to save it for reuse. The plugs go to the same place (the float bowl) so no need to remove both.

Now get the carb cleaner, put the hose on the nozzle and squirt into the vent tube(s) you should see cleaner coming out the plug hole, we are looking to rinse the bowl, so if no buggers/crud is coming out, stop, good enough.

Next put the plug back and snug it up. Squirt a good amount of cleaner into the vent, 30 seconds or so, if you start to see it level window stop that's plenty. Allow it to sit, work for 15min or so, then remove the plug to drain. Put the plug back in, tighten and squirt more cleaner into the vent until you start to see it in the window.

Cleanup, rinse, let evaporate any fuel/cleaner, remove and soaked flammable rags from the area. If you look at the pix there is a stud sticking up (the one that holds the air filter) it unscrews, removing it will make the next operation easier. Get a helper to run the key, get a clean big shop rag or towel.

Locate the throttle on the carb, have your helper push the accelerator peddle once to see how it works. Position yourself so you can operate the throttle with one hand and cover the carb opening with the other. Wrap the rag/towel around the hand that will cover the carb.

Have the helper run the key to start the motor, operate the throttle arm to get the motor running. As soon as it's running relatively well rev it to about 2500-3000rpm hold it there and firmly cover the carb opening with the rag covered hand, the motor will choke and start to die, uncover the opening, allow the motor to recover and repeat 3 or 4 times. Keep the throttle setting about the same throughout. If the motor dies, it will be flooded, so restart with the throttle open and allow to recover.

Put the stud and air cleaner back and test drive.

This often works on carbs that have set. The cleaner softens any varnish, buggers. By covering the carb on a running motor the engine vacuum will most times suck buggers out of the jets/passages.

Don't let the rug/towel get sucked into the carb, that would be bad!:hillbilly: The cover your hand with the towel thing is optional, but if the motor back fires while you hand is there, you wont be enjoying it. I'm not saying how I know, but think a nice sunburn on the palm of your hand!:o This whole thing takes much longer to talk about than actually do, it's a pretty simple, quick process that often works.
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Wow, you seem to know a thing or two about a thing or two... :D

You should come to AZ Rocks 2009.

We'll sit you in a tent, with sage burning, and have people line up for great words of trail repair wisdom... :smokin:
 
Wow, you seem to know a thing or two about a thing or two... :D

You should come to AZ Rocks 2009.

We'll sit you in a tent, with sage burning, and have people line up for great words of trail repair wisdom... :smokin:

Good deal I will have my oil speech ready.... That will have them snoozing in seconds.:hillbilly:
 
Tools R Us- Thanks for the great walk through. I did what you told me and there was plenty of brown gas boogers in there. I am gonna take the cruiser for a long drive out towards the Peaks this evening to see how it works. It for sure sounds better. The carb is running smoothly. Before it would have this squelching sound like it wasn't able to get good gas flow. Now it is sounding good. I owe you some :beer: if I ever meet you.
 
Good deal I will have my oil speech ready.... That will have them snoozing in seconds.:hillbilly:

OK. For the uninitiated: the 'oily speech' is about 90 minutes. Well, actually, it feels like it were 90 minutes. :D
Best delivered on a CB in the middle of the night.
 
Respekt the authoritay.

-Spike
 
I'll be hangin' out @ Camp Stoopid during AZ Rocks 09. We'll have a stage PA setup, for those who wish to express themselves. You're more than welcome to forcefully broadcast the "Oil Speech" across the valley to defenseless victims... :clap:
 
Tools is right on several levels.
I have been dealing with two Monteros with similar problems. One had been sitting for several years, long enough for the gas tank to varnish up. The other was my daily driver. After sale, the guy with my DD holed the tank and had to replace it with one that had several years of sitting. Both tanks are filled with residue. Both trucks have the same problem. They have both been thru a fuel filter every 1000 miles for the last several thousand. They still tend to starve for fuel at high loads. Both carbs have been rebuilt. Both fuel pumps are new. Replacing the fuel filter solves the problem temporarily. But it doesn't last.
I have been in the biz, and I have cleaned out fuel tanks. I would not put any real faith in this process. The only way to deal with a clogged tank is to buy a new one. Very few tanks allow enough access to really clean them out, short of soaking them in a hot vat, which is not cheap. Even in a hot vat, you need to be able to rinse them out. But very few tanks have holes in the right places to allow complete rinsing. There will always be junk in the tank, no matter what you do.
All too often, efforts to dislodge filth from inside the tank can leave it vulnerable to leaving junk to plug up the fuel systen in the engine that the fuel system is supposed to protect. Some things are better left alone!
 
I took my tank to a radiator shop and they boiled it and dried it for 80 bucks. They will also seal the tank if it is really bad. This was a whole lot cheaper than a new tank. It cam out really clean. I am just seeing the residue that was left in some of the fuel lines. The fuel coming through the filter has been getting cleaner. I took it for a nice long drive out 180 past the peaks and ran it at 65mph for 40 miles and had no problems. I think if I just keep doing what Tools mentioned every so often I will eventually have a clean fuel system.:clap:
 
Running your fuel system magic cleaner of choice (B-G, Sea Foam, etc) in the next few tanks would probably help with the final cleanup.
 
Plan old rubbing alcohol is also a big help. From your description the choke may be stuck too. Check the barrel at the top of the carb, the flaps should be closed or nearly closed during cold start up.
 
BG is a great product. It works great. The above cure by Bro Tools R Us is the best. Create maximum vacuum by revving the engine and then plugging the intake with your hand. It rarely backfires and burns your hand. It will usually clear any carb. It helps to empty the carb of fuel, and refill it with carb or brake cleaner. Let it soak for an hour. Then do the max vacuum thing as above.
Carbs are simple. If a simple clearing as above doesn't work, cleaning is needed.
Cleaning is not difficult. It only requires mapping of the carb and its passages. Then clean them out. The soaking of the carb is never necessary. I have not done it in 20 years of doing it for a living. It only confuses you. Take the carb apart, and clean every passage with air pressure or cleaner spray. Look out for check-valves and such. Clean everything and put it back the way that it was before, but clean. It will run. It's not that hard!
A carb is not rocket science. It is a metal casting with passages drilled thru it. Each of the passages must be clean and unobstructed for it to work right. Clean each passage, and it will work properly. It is that simple! Just clean every passage, and put every part back where it was, and it will work. It's not high rocket science!
 
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