Any remedies to fix a ripped upper ball joint boot? (1 Viewer)

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Odessa/Midland TX
Replacing 14K miles driven Chinese CV axles:
These CV's have a play inside the outer joint: I can spin the outer joint 1-2 degrees without even turning the axle shaft attached to inner joint! Surprisingly the splines are not bent/damaged but Chinese splines are not deep enough to fully engaged with OEM flange.

Saw a rip between two bellows in the upper ball joint. Any body found any remedy to fix it? Ball joint is still good, no free play. Same with the bushings...

Found 43324-69085 but it looks like for Prado.
 
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BJ boots are replaceable

Upper: your google fu is correct

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Rough measurements

19mm small opening 39mm large opening, Diameter is 55mm height is 39mm
 
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McGrerge has it for a $8.50! Two in the cart! Thanks abuck99!!
 
When installing, put the retention spring/ring thingy on the boot FIRST. Then install.
Way I did it was work the boot and ring around the lip of the BJ from back to front, ensuring that the spring/ring thingy stayed in its spot as I worked it around. Takes a little bit to get it dont with everything staying in place.
 
When installing, put the retention spring/ring thingy on the boot FIRST. Then install.
Way I did it was work the boot and ring around the lip of the BJ from back to front, ensuring that the spring/ring thingy stayed in its spot as I worked it around. Takes a little bit to get it dont with everything staying in place.

I didn't do it this way. Decided to buy upper control arms when the time comes.

I would buy three boots at a minimum FYI.
 
I didn't do it this way. Decided to buy upper control arms when the time comes.

I would buy three boots at a minimum FYI.
I find no crazy sound from front suspension so I can drive bit more. Yes, I will end up getting oem suspension upper and lower when time comes.

Thanks for the advice on how to get the boot on. Was wondering the process, buy now know how.
 
I find no crazy sound from front suspension so I can drive bit more. Yes, I will end up getting oem suspension upper and lower when time comes.

Thanks for the advice on how to get the boot on. Was wondering the process, buy now know how.
The boot kit includes the correct grease for the ball joint. Be sure to look inside the folded up piece of paper in the bag, that's where the grease is. The same part number is also compatible with 5th gen 4runner I'm case
 
If you're careful in removing the old boot retaining wire, you can re-use it- I think its a better wire. I found that the wire included in the reboot kit is thinner and didn't appear that it was going to hold the same tension. I have not tried the method described by @gregnash - (which sounds like a good install option)
 
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If you're careful in removing the old boot retaining wire, you can re-use it- I think its a better wire. I found that the wire included in the reboot kit is thinner and didn't appear that it was going to hold the same tension. I have not tried the method described by @gregnash - (which sounds like a good install option)

Good advice!

I am still waiting for the boot. In the mean time I installed the OEM CV on pass. side (inboard joint is my old toyota joint) . I have Chinese axle on driver side and decided to spin at the inner joint and see the play with front drive shaft. The OEM inner joint had zero play and even a 0.5 degree turn spun the drive shaft! Now for the Crappy Chinese, I can spin 3-4 degrees before engaging it with the diff tube splines!

I tried to eliminate the clunk on R and D gears with OEM diff bushings, but as I find out now, a MAJOR play was at CHINESE CV's. There was about 3-4 degree free play at the outboard joint on the Chinese CV as well. It is quite light weight compared to OEM CV. Must do a thread warning all mudders.
 
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I


Good advice!

I am still waiting for the boot. In the mean time I installed the OEM CV on pass. side (inboard joint is my old toyota joint) . I have Chinese axle on right and decided to spin at the inner joint and see the play with front drive shaft. The OEM inner joint had zero play and even a 0.5 degree turn spun the drive shaft! Now for the Crappy Chinese, I can spin 3-4 degrees before engaging it with the diff tube splines!

I tried to eliminate the clunk on R and D gears with OEM diff bushings, but a MAJOR play was at CHINESE CV's. There was about 3-4 degree free play at the outboard joint on the Chinese CV as well. It is quite light weight compared to OEM CV. Must do a thread warning all mudders.
Do you know what brand the Chinesium one is? I have "Sur-Trak" according to the part number that is on the exposed mid-shaft and have significant play. It has destroyed my hub flanges so I am replacing those as well.
 
Do you know what brand the Chinesium one is? I have "Sur-Trak" according to the part number that is on the exposed mid-shaft and have significant play. It has destroyed my hub flanges so I am replacing those as well.

I bough it from Advance Auto, came with a life time guarantee. I might ask for a store credit. It is shame that chinse CV's are causing problems in just less than 14K miles.

I got the hub flanges from PArts OUQ for $31 each, also order the gasket at the flange.
 
Got the boots today and the installation was not as bad as I thought.
I had the grease on the joint and then slide in the boot and then moved the ring (used old ring as it seems much sturdier) through the bellows. The spring went in smoothly, had to lift one-end with a blunt screwdriver.
Place the ends of the spring facing the front of the LC (not shown) to avoid touching the rubber boot

The boot is made by NOK, the same brand that makes OEM TOYOTA oil seals

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Done
 
I have the same issue - how about a part# for the lower ball joint boot?

Does it matter if the ball joints are 555s?

I checked partsoq with no luck.

EDIT: Its 43345-69015
 
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