Any one use amsoil? Im a dealer and I am picking up a big order at the warehouse in this coming weekend in VA and I wanted to check to see if any one in the club wanted some at a club price. Just pm me and I can give you a club/tlca discount.
Any one use amsoil?
- Thread starter mwalls54
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Is it still a true group 4 oil??? I used to use it all the time after mobil 1 dropped down to a group 3 but that was on high horsepower engines.... haven't ever used it in the cruiser.
So as a dealer will you also have club prices on bypass oil filter kits?
So as a dealer will you also have club prices on bypass oil filter kits?
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- #4
I am pretty sure the signature series and the racing oil are a group 4 but I am not positive. I would have to do some research on it.
Anything they sell I can do club pricing. I became a dealer so I could save on the stuff and to pass on the discounts to friends and family. Its not a money making thing for me.
The guys up in GCLCNY rave about AMSOIL.
If you could get us some pricing info we could look at, I'm sure some of us could put an order together. I love 5 gallon buckets of oil
If you could get us some pricing info we could look at, I'm sure some of us could put an order together. I love 5 gallon buckets of oil
I was running it in my Duramax, with very good results. I had a noticeable increase in fuel economy after switching from Dino. But, then it got to be a hassle, and it's expensive, so I switched to Mobil1 - saw a drop in fuel economy, and switched to RotellaT Syn. - I am seeing similar results from the cheap Shell as the Amsoil, so I'll probably stick with that.
I didn't ever extend the drain intervals as recommended by Amsoil - kinda' scares me when the oil is sooty after 5k, to keep stretching it. I was going to have an analysis done, but never got around to it. So the ROI is probably higher for those that follow their recommendations for DI.
R
I didn't ever extend the drain intervals as recommended by Amsoil - kinda' scares me when the oil is sooty after 5k, to keep stretching it. I was going to have an analysis done, but never got around to it. So the ROI is probably higher for those that follow their recommendations for DI.
R
A 55 gallon drum of the 15w-40 Synthetic diesel oil is $1200!!! Anyone want to go in on a barrel?? 
I was hoping for a 5 gallon version, but it only comes in 2.5 gallon versions. Let me know what a case of 2-2.5gallon OEDTP-EA would be.
Thanks Matt!
I was hoping for a 5 gallon version, but it only comes in 2.5 gallon versions. Let me know what a case of 2-2.5gallon OEDTP-EA would be.
Thanks Matt!
Shoot, with tbe 4BTA and the 1HZ the oil is black immediately after the change
Sent from my ultimate time waster using IH8MUD
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- #10
I was running it in my Duramax, with very good results. I had a noticeable increase in fuel economy after switching from Dino. But, then it got to be a hassle, and it's expensive, so I switched to Mobil1 - saw a drop in fuel economy, and switched to RotellaT Syn. - I am seeing similar results from the cheap Shell as the Amsoil, so I'll probably stick with that.
I didn't ever extend the drain intervals as recommended by Amsoil - kinda' scares me when the oil is sooty after 5k, to keep stretching it. I was going to have an analysis done, but never got around to it. So the ROI is probably higher for those that follow their recommendations for DI.
The extended use is where amsoil shines. I go between 10k to 14k miles on oil changes in my powerstroke with good blackstone reports. And I go about 8k miles a year on my wifes trailblazer and my dads tahoe with good reports.
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- #13
I use the amsoil ea filters that are rated for extended use. If I had a filtration system I could probably go longer on the oil.
Not that uncommon with a true group 4 or 5 oil.
Newer engines run cleaner..... good filters also extend the life of oil.
With a good bypass system in place you can theoretically use the same oil for ever as long as you top up if any burns off or leaks. All you really have to do is change the filters and they aren't that expensive.
Many long haul trucker owner operators i've met use it and have had the same oil in their motor for over 150k. And thats on a 14-18 liter engine that does nothing but pull 40+lbs every day.
First i'd heard of it was back in 1998 when I ran into a guy at Pismo that had a 88 diesel 2500 suburban that he had swapped a rebuilt 4bt in to back in 91.... after the break in period he changed in some group 5 motul oil (or was it lubro moly, can't remember) that he somehow got a hold of from Europe. The engine at that point had about 300k on it and still the same oil thanks to a bypass system (can't remember the brand). I never really thought about it much after that till I got my cruiser.
Johnny i'd really recommend putting a bypass system on your beast.
Matt could you check on pricing on the 15w40 turbo diesel oil and also check to see if it is still made from a group IV base. I'm only worried about that because I know Amsoil gets alot of their base stock from mobil 1 that has since switched just about every synthetic they sell in the US to a group III.
After you shoot me that PM i'll send you the part number of the bypass kit i'm thinking of getting for the suburban.
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Just a word on bypass filtration from blackstone labs if anyone wants to know the "basic" use of it and how long they say you can go on the same oil 1,000,000 miles 
Just a word on bypass filtration from blackstone labs if anyone wants to know the "basic" use of it and how long they say you can go on the same oil 1,000,000 miles
Just to reiterate the point stated above, you CAN NOT simply put a bypass oil filtration system on your rig and use the same oil you've got now for more than 8000 miles. SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE (spun bearings, siezed motors, etc.) can occur. If you intend to put over 10 thousand miles on an oil change, make sure you use an oil that is designed to withstand tens of thousands of heat cycles and not break down.
For those wanting to learn about how oil works, including stabilized oils (group 3 and under) and why they SHOULD NOT be used for extended service intervals, read here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
That is a good read for anyone that doesn't know oil that well.
I should have added that to my above comments but was keeping it simple as I was on a break.
To clarify about bypass systems no on just puts one oil in and leaves it. What you do is normally you send in a oil sample to black stone or another lab and they can tell you how your oil is doing and if it is braking down at all. Also you do "replenish" the additives when you change filters as you have to add back in new oil to the tune of how much oil was in the filters when you change them.
If you are interested in bypass systems just make sure you use a quality oil. You can use a quality group III because many of them use group IV base stock PAO additives. Personally if I intended on using the same oil for as long as I could i'd start with the best oil available.
That is a good read for anyone that doesn't know oil that well.
I should have added that to my above comments but was keeping it simple as I was on a break.
To clarify about bypass systems no on just puts one oil in and leaves it. What you do is normally you send in a oil sample to black stone or another lab and they can tell you how your oil is doing and if it is braking down at all. Also you do "replenish" the additives when you change filters as you have to add back in new oil to the tune of how much oil was in the filters when you change them.
If you are interested in bypass systems just make sure you use a quality oil. You can use a quality group III because many of them use group IV base stock PAO additives. Personally if I intended on using the same oil for as long as I could i'd start with the best oil available.
Hey al do you have fat balls or fat hand syndrome? "Bypass systems no on just puts one" huh? Also the
word braking should be breaking and you are missing A s*** ton of commas! Just trying to help ya out.
