Any front drive shaft ideas?

[ffYota]

It seem as though there are few of us 79-95 pickup/4runner guys out there on Ih8mud but I've got some good info so far on what im doin. So that's cool
For those of you that know I am picking up a 3rd with 5.29's w/a lockrite for $400 on friday (CAN'T BEAT THAT) Then I will get the V6 3rd I got from the junk yard set with 5.29's and a locker of some kind and when that happens the one im gettin on friday will go up front and the V6 3rd will go in the rear axle.

What I want to know now is what should I do with the front driveshaft? its not in and i've been 2wd for to long now, I have the one that came out, so should I get it lengthened or go with a long spline kit? or maybe a square tube drive shaft cuz ether way, from what Im told nothing but the stock shaft lengthened can be balanced.... This is my daily driver so at the most a square slip shaft would be a back up.

Any input?? Pretty much just shotin the sh** here.

 

[Hilux]

Front High Pinion...


Wonder if a stock (der... 79-85 front drive) shaft would fit then...?

 

[KLF]

Front High Pinion...


Wonder if a stock shaft would fit then...?

It depends on where the front axle is mounted. Mine is about 1-1/2" forward (re-drilled spring perches), and it didn't reach. I had to have it lengthened, about 2" IIRC.

Besides, he already has his front diff.

Is your existing front DS the IFS one? This may not have enough flex in the CV/cardan joint.

 

[4rnr]

The cheapest option is to modify a stock shaft. Have your front lengthened, and you will need a long spline kit. Your stock IFS drive shaft will not work (high pinion or not). Not only is it way too short but the front DS needs alot of travel, alot more than a rear. The front axle (in a leaf sprung truck) swings away from the t-case. Also the offset dif causes a much more travel at the differential.

I have had several aftermarket and custom shafts balanced everything from .090 wall to 3/8 wall. (But yeah you'll never balance a square tube shaft, and they can be very noisy in "power off".

Keep an eye on how much $ you get into this shaft and call Jessie at high angle driveline, and get a quote, you will be surprised. when it comes down to it jessie will set you up with a top of the line, longspline, clearanced, balanced .090 wall d-shaft with new joints for not much more or maybe less (plus core) than sourcing all the parts yourself and dealing with the local dumb s*** d-shaft shop.

depending on your setup a u-joint may be better.

 

[4rnr]

BTW using a long spline kit as a sole means to lengthen your DS, will result in NASTY vibrations. If I run a long spline with more than about 3.5" of spline showing, they get alittle loose and start to vibrate.

 

[sparticus]

Yes I'm in the same boat and i have a 1980 drive shaft so it won't bind but i'm also afraid it will come out in extreme articulation, i have a1991 4runner with a low pinion 1980 axle, so how much is it about to lengthen a stock drive shaft and do i still need a longer splines? This is the only thing i haven't upgraded on the swap because everyone said i had to buy a trail gear long spline drive shaft

 

[Hilux]

Besides, he already has his front diff.

yeah, but given the choice, would you rather spend $200 or more on a custom DS?

Or sell the diff you got, apply $200 towards it and buy a HP set-up so your next DS is an off the shelf item?


Of course this all hinges on IF it'll work anyway.

I'm all about what's readily available and K.I.S.S.


I'd say with his SAS kit and springs he's running 6" of lift. I'm just guessing a HP will make the DS angle that of a 4" so I wonder if a stock shaft would be fine with 4" lift or if you can mix and match and make it slightly longer if need be.

 

[WristPin]

get those thirds checked out by some one that can define pinion bearing preload and backlash, before you run them anywhere

it dont matter if the front shaft is balanced at all, use receiver square stock. cheap, easy to build and SUPER strong

 

[4rnr]

Are you guys all running SAS'ed rigs, with traditional springs (marlin, AP, TG, RUF, etc...)? If so...

Yes I'm in the same boat and i have a 1980 drive shaft so it won't bind but i'm also afraid it will come out in extreme articulation, i have a1991 4runner with a low pinion 1980 axle, so how much is it about to lengthen a stock drive shaft and do i still need a longer splines? This is the only thing i haven't upgraded on the swap because everyone said i had to buy a trail gear long spline drive shaft

Yes it WILL come apart. Yes you will need to lengthen and long spline. Call your local DS shop for a quote

yeah, but given the choice, would you rather spend $200 or more on a custom DS?

Or sell the diff you got, apply $200 towards it and buy a HP set-up so your next DS is an off the shelf item?


Of course this all hinges on IF it'll work anyway.

I'm all about what's readily available and K.I.S.S.


I'd say with his SAS kit and springs he's running 6" of lift. I'm just guessing a HP will make the DS angle that of a 4" so I wonder if a stock shaft would be fine with 4" lift or if you can mix and match and make it slightly longer if need be.

No matter the 3rd member he is running he will need a long spline, it has nothing to do with ride height, its travel.

get those thirds checked out by some one that can define pinion bearing preload and backlash, before you run them anywhere

it dont matter if the front shaft is balanced at all, use receiver square stock. cheap, easy to build and SUPER strong

It does if he drives it on the street and needs 4wd at high speeds (ie snow)

I need to see if I have any pics of me torturing my front drive shaft. I wouldnt be surprised if I used 6-8" of the splines.

 

[4rnr]

didnt find much...

this is after I rolled the new suspension out of the garage in 06, im poser flexing to measure for bump stops. you can see the spline boot is stretched out. at ride height it is nice and compressed, with maybe 1/2 between ribs. This is in a driveway with new stiff springs.

Once I get it broken in the front diff dropped out much more and promtly over extended the boot and ripped it. And this is with only 12" shocks, they are definatly limiting me.

Now the front suspension is captured and the truck is significanlty lowered, so I have much less articulation.

 

[ffYota]

I've been told by some people who run F-toys and used to run pickup's or 4runners AND the people at Marlin or TG said the long spline shaft can't be balanced, witch sucks cuz it is and will be my DD for a long time, My Yota maybe in snow at some point but not to much I live in FL, I do plan to move to AZ where there can be snow in the northern parts of AZ but even if I am in snow I wont be doin much more then 50 tops

Would a shop be able to balance the long spline kit enough that it wont bother my daily drivin? I do have manual locking hubs SFA and when I can get the 3rd geared and locked will it even f**k with daily drivin?

 

[ffYota]

If the hubs are in ''FREE'' the shaft should not even really turn right?

 

[4rnr]

I've been told by some people who run F-toys and used to run pickup's or 4runners AND the people at Marlin or TG said the long spline shaft can't be balanced, witch sucks cuz it is and will be my DD for a long time, My Yota maybe in snow at some point but not to much I live in FL, I do plan to move to AZ where there can be snow in the northern parts of AZ but even if I am in snow I wont be doin much more then 50 tops

Would a shop be able to balance the long spline kit enough that it wont bother my daily drivin? I do have manual locking hubs SFA and when I can get the 3rd geared and locked will it even f**k with daily drivin?

My long spline front has been balanced. Im not sure if it was a perfect balance, but living in chicago, I do drive in the snow. I havent had it above 50osh, but it was smooth. I could tell i was in 4wd, but not uncomfortable. you really dont have an option anyway.

If the hubs are in ''FREE'' the shaft should not even really turn right?

right.

 

[4rnr]

btw, what trans/t-case do you run, and what front springs? how much lift? can i see a pic that shows its ride height?

 

[ffYota]

It was a 3'' kit from TG it put me up about 6-7'' so we took a leaf out of the front leaf pack that lowered it 2'' and 5'' of block in the rear leveled it pretty close

The xtra leaf will go back in when I can get some bigger tires and a add-a-leaf in the rear till I can get that done the right way.

 

[ffYota]

stock trans and t-case in the far future there will be a doubler with crawl gears

 

[4rnr]

auto or stick?

I wasnt able to to travel above 5mph with out MASSIVE vibrations from the front (balanced) when I was auto/single case. It wasnt until I went to duals that I could drive 4wd on the street.

My shaft is u-joint in the front. perhaps you may have more luck with a cv, but a normal toyota cv will not achaive the same angles as a u-joint. the manual is slightly longer than the auto btw.

 

[ffYota]

Stick

dam

 

[KLF]

One thing the hi-pinion diff does help with is reducing the chance of vibrations at high speeds, since the shaft is not flexed as much. My front shaft is darned near level, almost no angle at the flanges when sitting on level ground. I can run down the road at 60 mph with the front hubs locked, no vibration. But I don't have a huge amount of lift, probably about minimum to get hi-steer to work.

 

[4rnr]

One thing the hi-pinion diff does help with is reducing the chance of vibrations at high speeds, since the shaft is not flexed as much. My front shaft is darned near level, almost no angle at the flanges when sitting on level ground. I can run down the road at 60 mph with the front hubs locked, no vibration. But I don't have a huge amount of lift, probably about minimum to get hi-steer to work.

that is true....a high pinion WILL help with on road drive line angles, and may very well allow you to run a SAS'd truck with one t-case, on the road at speed, in 4wd.

Also, if you plan to go duals eventually. it might be smarter to do them now. Inchworms dual adapter is now 199$ if you put in 2 stock cases now you wont have to re-do both of your drive shafts again in the future. it'll cost a little more now, but will save you money in the long term, give you dual cases, and allow high speed 4wd.