Another homebrew spacer thread (1 Viewer)

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Any issues with the front of the inside of the spring having adequate clearance to the "now lowered" bump stop inside the spring?

I thought about that when I was putting them in because it looked they were gonna be close, but no issues.

As for the new rubber, I have not had them mounted yet. I have to buy a new wheel cause one is pretty hammered and has a slow leak. I havent figured out what to do, 4 new wheels( black) or 1 replacement.:bang:
 
If you could I would get some steel ones, but if its up to you
 
If you could I would get some steel ones, but if its up to you

I thought about that, but with steel wheels and that big a tire, it would be too heavy. Im already planning some kind of break upgrade when the bigger tires go on.
 
Any chance you would share the dimensions on the those bad boys so another mudder could copy them??? I see you said they were about 2" lift, but what size circle did you cut on the top and bottom plates and what thickness on them as well? Want to lift up the front of mine cause of a winch and bumper. Thanks, AR
 
I have dimensional drawings, PM me with an E-mail address and I will send them.
 
Any chance you would share the dimensions on the those bad boys so another mudder could copy them??? I see you said they were about 2" lift, but what size circle did you cut on the top and bottom plates and what thickness on them as well? Want to lift up the front of mine cause of a winch and bumper. Thanks, AR

The plate I used was 1/4" and the 3"pipe in the middle was 1/4"wall thickness and 1 1/2" tall, for a total of 2". I took the spring out and used the bumpstop bucket thing to do my out line. Those are the only dimensions I have.
 
The plate I used was 1/4" and the 3"pipe in the middle was 1/4"wall thickness and 1 1/2" tall, for a total of 2". I took the spring out and used the bumpstop bucket thing to do my out line. Those are the only dimensions I have.

I did the same thing - though I used 2x2x1/4 square tube (it's what was in the garage at the time) - just trace and cut...
 
or print out the paper, fab up so when you take apart the rig you are ready to roll with the new part.
 
or print out the paper, fab up so when you take apart the rig you are ready to roll with the new part.

I wish I had such a thing. I had to go to my work and use a fork lift to lift front of truck take parts out, then trace it, put it back in, then go to buddy's house build spacers, then back to work lift with fork lift and install.
 
Thanks azTony, PM inbound. And thanks slow91fj90 for the idea and pics. May not have been original to you but I didn't think of it either. :cheers:
AR
 
Drawing

Well it sounds like there is more interest than I thought. I have this drawing that is in MM and it is only of the top plate and not the whole spacer. I was planning on redrawing this so it is in a scalable format so you print 1:1 and you have a template but I have gotten several PM's. I will post this for now and once I draw up the other I will follow up with a new post. :beer:
 

Attachments

  • Spacer.pdf
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Thanks Tony!
 
Drawings

Ok, try these. One of them is a dimensional drawing of the last post in inches that I made up based off the original drawing I had. The other one is a 1 to 1 plot of the spacer where you should be able to trace.

I just want to bring to your attention that I have not laid this on the spacers in person as I do not have a set any more. Please try it on a known good spacer and post back.
1-1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 1-1Plot.pdf
    6.8 KB · Views: 360
  • NewSpacerDrawing.pdf
    14.3 KB · Views: 127
when I laid the spacer on it, I scratched my computer screen, is that suposed to happen?
 
Thanks Tony!
 

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