Another 80......and no it’s not a white one

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I thought the VHT required a high temp cure.
 
Spent the evening replacing the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Running much smoother now. Also replaced the air intake tube with a new oem. Trying to locate where the exhaust sound from under the hood is coming from now. I suspect a cracked EGR pipe, I have the pipe from my old motor so I guess swapping all that stuff out will be my first thing to try. It sounds like a lot of reverberation from the EGR area.
 
New radiator hoses and thermostat went on today. Good thing to because the old hoses were pretty swollen. Old thermostat looked and felt good but went ahead and swapped for pm. One odd thing, in replacing radiator hose #2, the one between the thermostat housing and the small section of hard line before going into the lower hose, the new OE hose was over an inch shorter than the old OE hose. I’m assuming the old hose was OE because it still had the white marks on it.

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New radiator hoses and thermostat went on today. Good thing to because the old hoses were pretty swollen. Old thermostat looked and felt good but went ahead and swapped for pm. One odd thing, in replacing radiator hose #2, the one between the thermostat housing and the small section of hard line before going into the lower hose, the new OE hose was over an inch shorter than the old OE hose. I’m assuming the old hose was OE because it still had the white marks on it.

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Was the new one long enough? Maybe that's a PN that's changed over the years due to it being too long. Not a phrase you hear thrown around very often ;)
 
Was the new one long enough? Maybe that's a PN that's changed over the years due to it being too long. Not a phrase you hear thrown around very often ;)

BWAHAAAHAAA I’ve never heard that phrase!!

At first I didn’t think the hose would work but when I put the lower hose on it flexed the hard line up enough so that it would.
 
16572-66021: The 2nd short hose. The 1 at the end indicated a major engineering change from the factory part number of 16572-66020.

The engineering change was that it was shortened. That's generally how you can tell an engineering change was introduced after the vehicle was manufactured because the final number of a 10-digit part number goes from zero to one to 2 to 3 etc.

1904415
 
16572-66021: The 2nd short hose. The 1 at the end indicated a major engineering change from the factory part number of 16572-66020.

The engineering change was that it was shortened. That's generally how you can tell an engineering change was introduced after the vehicle was manufactured because the final number of a 10-digit part number goes from zero to one to 2 to 3 etc.

View attachment 1904415

Thanks for the clarification!
 
16572-66021: The 2nd short hose. The 1 at the end indicated a major engineering change from the factory part number of 16572-66020.

The engineering change was that it was shortened. That's generally how you can tell an engineering change was introduced after the vehicle was manufactured because the final number of a 10-digit part number goes from zero to one to 2 to 3 etc.

View attachment 1904415

260538.webp
 
16572-66021: The 2nd short hose. The 1 at the end indicated a major engineering change from the factory part number of 16572-66020.

The engineering change was that it was shortened. That's generally how you can tell an engineering change was introduced after the vehicle was manufactured because the final number of a 10-digit part number goes from zero to one to 2 to 3 etc.

View attachment 1904415


Onur always educating us. You should do a toyota podcast brotha!! I know I and about 10k other mud people would listen to it.
 
:meh: Already have been on Toyota Trucks and Trails podcast twice.


Which episodes..... we need this written in the sky!! ;)
 
A few days ago I FINALLY found the cause of the missing/popping at idle and my P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. Didn’t do it all the time, only at idle and it wasn’t a consistent rythmic miss. After a pretty thorough tune up it was still there but after a lot of searching in 80’s tech I finally found the thread that lead me to the problem and solution. Someone had inadvertently swapped the #4 and #5 injector harnesses. By unbolting the throttle body I was able to gain enough access even without unhooking the 2 coolant lines that pass through the throttle body to get them swapped back the way they are supposed to be. The injector clips are colored either grey or brown and should alternate grey, brown, grey, brown, grey, brown starting at 1 cylinder and going to 6. Starting at 1 I had grey brown grey grey. Totally fixed it and running really smooth now. Here’s a video of before. Listen closely and you’ll notice the intermittent “pop”.

 
Temporarily deflared today. Plan is to wash, clay bar, buff then wax the whole 80. Then will use a spray on bed liner on the flares and reinstall with new gaskets. Hard to believe the amount of crud that was trapped under them.

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Got around to exterior cleanup today. Washed, clay barred, buffed then waxed. Looks tons better but I did expect to more of the pinstripes out, but realistically as bad as it was striped up it is a vast improvement. I used a pretty aggressive Meguiars compound but I think my low speed buffer was the reason the results weren’t better. High speed buffers scare the crap out of me, I’ve seen way too many mess ups.

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