Alternator w/ built in voltage regulator

[grant5127]

Its a Bosch Alternator, it has been rebuilt a couple of times though!

Is this a custom HO 1 wire?? 1260 series? the D+ terminal is for the idiot light connection.... does it have a W~ terminal?

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

OK I installed a Delco 12 si, wired as instructed, and no charge. Returned to retailer and after a test they claim it is fine, but they give me another anyway. So I install the second and still no charge. by the way this is on a 73 fj40 with F motor any clue?

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

ttt

 

[grant5127]

If your original voltage regulator is still on line?? if so it needs to be eliminated..

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

OK I eliminated the old voltage regulator and used a jumper wire a that location to retain the flow of juice with the key (on) to terminal #1. It charges great 14.5vs my lights have never been brighter, but when the key switch is turned to the off position my motor continues to run. WTF?

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Did the jumper you put in connect "switched power" or is hot all the time? If its hot then you have jumped unswitched power to the ignition circuit.

 

[amg2y]

"they are real simple....on the back they have terminals #1 & #2 #1 needs a hot wire when key is on.. #2 just jumper over to the large lug to the battery connection... "

I did just this, terminal #1 to the key on on ignition switch, #2 is jumpered over to the battery lug on the alternator. When I connect the battery back up, I saw spark coming out off the terminals. Did I miss something here???? I took out the regulator already. By the way, is the alternator now **** then after that sparK???

 

[grant5127]

OK I eliminated the old voltage regulator and used a jumper wire a that location to retain the flow of juice with the key (on) to terminal #1. It charges great 14.5vs my lights have never been brighter, but when the key switch is turned to the off position my motor continues to run. WTF?

Do to the nature of your cruiser wiring circuitry your getting electrical feedback from the alternator.... the easiest way around this is to install a diode pt# 1n5404 from radio shack.. otherwise you'll have to separate the chg. and the ing. circuits check the pic.....

 

[grant5127]

"they are real simple....on the back they have terminals #1 & #2 #1 needs a hot wire when key is on.. #2 just jumper over to the large lug to the battery connection... "

I did just this, terminal #1 to the key on on ignition switch, #2 is jumpered over to the battery lug on the alternator. When I connect the battery back up, I saw spark coming out off the terminals. Did I miss something here???? I took out the regulator already. By the way, is the alternator now **** then after that sparK???

You sure it's wired correctly? any terminals touching the case?

 

[amg2y]

I don't think it's touching, I'll double check. Do you think the alternator is **** then since it shorted??
I'm going to try to get it exchange tomorrow. Thanks, Grant

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

Thanks, 5127 I installed the diode as instructed, all went well, I now have a happy battery

 

[amg2y]

i finally got the alternator worked and got about 14.5V coming out and charging the battery. Now my problem is the engine won't turn off when i switch the key off. Yes, i read about the diode thing, but where do i put at since i don't the original wiring anymore? Thanks for your help.

 

[grant5127]

Install in line key(on) power supply source to terminal#1...the end of the diode with stripes is out going voltage.. the opposite end, incoming.or + side...here is the spec.

Model: 1N5402 | Catalog #: 276-1143


Decisive 200A surge. Type 1N5402. Peak Inverse Voltage (PIV) is 200.

 

[amg2y]

yay... it worked. Thanks everyone....