alternator / generator

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Spike555 said:
It's not, you need upgraded wiring to handle the amps.
Here is how a alternator works, the car runs off of the battery, the alternator keeps the battery charged. When the alternator senses the battery is below "X" volts the alternator kicks in at max amps, changes the battery and then stops charging when it senses the battery is at "Y" volts.
The alternator either charges or it does not charge, there is no inbetween. When it charges it is at it's max amps, there is no inbetween.
Now there are exceptions to this rule, there are variable rate alternators, but 99% of all alternators work in this basic manner.
On or off. Charge or not charge.
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Yes and no. Earlier vehicles tended to work like this. Late models are voltage sensitive due to all of their electronics and require the alternator to maintain the system voltage. So late models start off the battery and run off the alternator. Which is why late models have such small batteries and large alternators compared to older models. Because late models are voltage sensitive and their alt's are always running at least a little the regulator in those alts varies the field current to vary the amperage output as needed. Earlier regulators also vary the field current to vary the output, but because the demands tended to be cyclic and the regulator wasn't as sensitive, the alt's output tended to be cyclic too.
What is fixed in most automotive regulators is the voltage. Which is bad when you have other than wet lead-acid battery(ies) in the system because not all types want the same bulk, absorption, or float voltages. If you want to range way off this topic look into regulators like the Balmar ARS-5 and the Ample Power Next Step
 
ntsqd said:
Yes and no. Earlier vehicles tended to work like this. Late models are voltage sensitive due to all of their electronics and require the alternator to maintain the system voltage. So late models start off the battery and run off the alternator. Which is why late models have such small batteries and large alternators compared to older models. Because late models are voltage sensitive and their alt's are always running at least a little the regulator in those alts varies the field current to vary the amperage output as needed. Earlier regulators also vary the field current to vary the output, but because the demands tended to be cyclic and the regulator wasn't as sensitive, the alt's output tended to be cyclic too.
What is fixed in most automotive regulators is the voltage. Which is bad when you have other than wet lead-acid battery(ies) in the system because not all types want the same bulk, absorption, or float voltages.
Click to expand...

Thank you for explaining that. That makes sense. A constant reliable current is required for computers, so that makes total sense.
 
Spike555 said:
It's not, you need upgraded wiring to handle the amps.
Here is how a alternator works, the car runs off of the battery, the alternator keeps the battery charged. When the alternator senses the battery is below "X" volts the alternator kicks in at max amps, changes the battery and then stops charging when it senses the battery is at "Y" volts.
The alternator either charges or it does not charge, there is no inbetween. When it charges it is at it's max amps, there is no inbetween.
Now there are exceptions to this rule, there are variable rate alternators, but 99% of all alternators work in this basic manner.
On or off. Charge or not charge.
Click to expand...
well for mt LX450 I got 150 AMP incited on 80 AMP and it was not doing well at all I switched back to 80
 
Went with denso from RA. I still have the core if you want to buy it.

I was also in the process of replacing the starter when the contacts broke after the little helper accidentally dropped it. Went with napa reman. I think it's been over six months and no issues.
 
bucfl said:
Went with denso from RA. I still have the core if you want to buy it.

I was also in the process of replacing the starter when the contacts broke after the little helper accidentally dropped it. Went with napa reman. I think it's been over six months and no issues.
Click to expand...
Just to confirm it's dense remanufactured on from RockAuto.com
(RA) is That's the same one???
Kindly please.

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Well, to throw another wrench in the works, you could do the 130amp upgrade and redo the connections etc, and use a newer Cruiser alternator, or a 130/150 Sequoia one (which somehow are new vs the reman Cruiser ones)? tons of threads debating that on here...
 
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